Pete M

I think you're talking about the new axles under Rubi JKs. They are a 5 on 5" bolt pattern and don't exactly bolt-in, causing all sorts of issues trying to adapt them to older Jeeps. But if they are the older Rubi axles, keep us posted. :D

I'm not sure it's possible to get a Dana 44 front done for that much. :( Unless you've got the skills to narrow it and build it yourself. But you should be able to beef up the Dana 30 a decent amount. To keep a Dana 30 alive under 35s, I'd go with alloy shafts and maybe CTMs, a truss across the top, top quality aftermarket gears, and I'd stick with an open diff or at most a posi. That helps shock forces to move to the free side rather than concentrate on the side with the stuck tire.

I realize this may just be semantics, but the '91+ 2.5L was redesigned/modified by Chrysler (electronics, head, etc.) but they kept the major dimensions/specs of the block. I'm told any 91+ XJ/TJ 2.5L block can be swapped pretty much directly into the older MJs. I'd bet the 2.5L in a Dakota would work the same way. :brows:

Not really. XJs need them because their uni-frame is pretty wussy and the flexing can cause cracks to appear in the body. MJs have a much beefier uni-frame up front, a fully boxed frame out back, and the rear wall of the cab acts like a diagonal brace. Bottom line, our trucks really don't have much need for them unless you're looking to pull some major air time. :D

I don't think they are "versions", but rather 2 different engines that happen to have the same displacement. I'm hardly an expert though. Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

Try to reduce the file size of each image before you upload it. I think picturetrail retains the original file size. I pay for mine. But then I have a gazillion photos and need a reliable place to keep and organize them for online use, so I feel it's worth it. :D

As far as I know, the 2.5L we know and love/hate was always an AMC design. You're thinking of the older Iron Duke which was a different engine.

Thats center of the wheels front to rear correct? Yup

Those are the wheelbase measurements.

longbeds had either the 16 gal or the 23.5 gal

Could be bad plug wires.

Is it making any noise? Get out your left-handed whats-it wrench and tighten up the little metal thingie for now. You'll definitely need to replace your doodad in short order, but I think you'll be fine for a while.

Ok, so here's the plan. I reviewed the artwork design last Friday and put in the down-payment today. In a week we should have a sample hat (yes! :D ) and then after approval the whole order will be made and shipped to me. I was worried for a while there that I wouldn't get to see a real sample and would end up dedicating such a huge chunk of change to an image on a piece of paper, but all looks well again. (until the next change in the plan) :roll:

All short bed tanks are the same, yes. Longbeds are different.

We're based at Old Key West. We only get to go once a year. :( And that's a LOT of pins! :eek:

Yeah, I think the main method of saving fuel was that it just sat in the garage because you couldn't stand driving it. :D

Nah...that's OK. I have never been there and I stay FAR away from that place. It's about a 35 minute drive from my house as I live about 2 miles North of the Orlando International Airport. Your loss. It's my favorite man-made place on the planet. :D Time share eh? A Disney place or the regular kind?

I think I remember someone putting a band clam around the axle shaft to keep the collar engaged. Memory's fuzzy on it though.

What's your budget? :brows:

I built my bumpers, crossmembers, and rocker guards that way. I cut and prefabbed everything and then took it to a pro for final welding. :D

You coming over to Disney to get it? :brows: Because I'm pretty sure I used up all of my "sidetrip favors" with that debacle a couple years ago getting those rustfree MJ leafs from that stupid junkyard that took all day.

Nope. longbed is 6" longer.

Taller than normal tires will hurt mpg and power (not to mention throw off your speedometer and all of your mpg calculations). Lots of MJ guys (me included) find the best plugs are the regular ol' copper ones. I would double check your rear axle ratio. There's always a small chance that the original broke and the replacement isn't 4.10.

I fully expect them to arrive the day I leave for my Florida vacation (15th), thereby delaying them for another week. :headpop:

All I'm saying is that I need to see some 3rd party dynometer runs to even come close to convincing me. Even if it could possibly add hp, there are much better things to spend your money on.