Pete M

You might have issues with the U-bolts interfering with the old perches.

You shouldn't need the other harness. I vaguely remember this issue popping up years ago and I believe the problem turned out to be a bad circuit card in the new cluster. The clusters should swap out directly and as long as the temp and pressure senders are swapped in, everything should work without any wiring changes. If it doesn't work, somethings broken. :(

Being that I work for the people :D I would like to run for White House some day, and if I ever do I will make sure every :USAflag: has a Jeep in the garage and a Stake on the grill :cheers: tent stake? :D or maybe wooden stake to kill vampires?

I imagine any small truck will be able to donate their rollbar as long as the rear downbars bolt to the floor or the top of the wheelwell. :thumbsup:

Got it through Premier Power Welders. It's a rewired GM unit I believe.

Chances are good that it's a problem with the CAD or Central Axle Disconnect. A simple way to eliminate this as a problem is to pull off the CAD cover on the front axle and use washers to keep the fork shifted all the time. Doing this is in no way detrimental to anything. Jeep eventually did away with the stupid design altogether. Image Not Found It's the blob of cast steel on the passenger's side of the diff with all the vacuum lines coming out of it.

pics are too small. I can't see much. :( Looks like some good fab work though. If you're going to start a new topic for each update though, I'd recommend restating the specs and stuff. :D I don't remember what axles you were running. (just ignore all those namby-pamby naysayers.)

I know it's been said before about lots of cars, but this may indeed be the ultimate sleeper. :brows: Click ME!!

Yeah, I think the 207 (stock case in 86 only) has it slightly different.

Uh, might that be inch/lbs? :brows:

Nah, you shouldn't have to. Most vacuum leaks are in the engine compartment where the lines are subject to greater wear and tear.

That's why you have to rotate the tire around twice. :D I forgot to mention that if the axle has a posi in it, then the owner would need to jack up both rear tires and rotate them around only once.

AW-4

Just make sure no one charges you for dropping the trans if they do the rear main seal. Only the oil pan needs to be dropped. :thumbsup:

Yup. Check your lines and check the vacuum ball in the front bumper for cracks.

Out of the factory shop manual I think (back when my scanner worked).

A quick and dirty technique is to raise up one tire (with the transmission in neutral) and rotate it twice while counting the driveshaft revolutions. If it spins around just over 4 times it's 4.10, 3-1/2 times is 3.55 and somewhere in between is 3.73.

I swapped a regular 2-core from a later model XJ into my 88. Fit right in and now I have a radiator cap. :D I retained the rest closed system.

That makes me think that the cap or bottle is cracked and leaking. The bottle should be sealed and hold pressure, meaning it should hold in the air and never "fill up" with antifreeze.

Personally I'd keep the Renix wiring you already have and adapt the new engine to it. To swap to the Chrysler electronics you'll need just about everything in the newer XJ (including the wiring in the dash). :(

I would try and devise a way to keep the swing arm on the prop valve approximately level with the ground.

I assume you know, but I'm just making sure, the perches are also a different distance from each other in an MJ. Don't just weld the new ones directly below the old ones on the XJ axle. :thumbsup:

My 90 was a real pain in the keester to shift when I bought it. Turned out to be rust in the handle assembly. :(

Will do. :D

Unfortunately, tying it to the frame is fairly pointless. The showbars are not designed to take any sort of abuse and will generally just collapse in the event of a rollover. :( Having said that, MJs that came with a bar from the factory had an extra piece that bolted to the bed mount that helped tie the bar into the frame.