Pete M

Hard to say what it's worth without actually selling it. But to insure a truck that is reasonably nice, I wouldn't go less than 8 grand, maybe even 10 grand. Minor accidents can easily hit four grand in repairs. And that would total out your truck if you just took the number that the insurance company says it's worth.

The padding underneath is heat insulation. You might notice if it's missing.

you should try ebay. some of the sellers do ship overseas.

a thing of beauty!

gorgeous car!

I would probably skip that horribly cloth padding for something that doesn't absorb water. I know I've seen people suggest things, but can't remember any off the top of my head. in fact, I should probably find out since I'm in the middle of a very similar project to yours.

@eaglescout526

just want to reiterate that the vast majority of "quieting" that you can achieve will be from a few sheets slapped on the roof and inside the doors (on the outer door skin) or inside the b-pillar. after that you get quickly diminishing returns because large "echo-y" panels transmit most of the noise (because they are free to vibrate), while the formed panels with lots of bends and wrinkles like the back wall or floor transmit far less because they have stiff structure to them. side note, when I do a project, a guiding thought in the back of my head is: don't create future headaches. I can't even fathom the work needed to remove a whole mess of that stuff to fix something.

dang, I kinda figured her most direct route to the house would be on the double-door side of the garage. the single side would have worked perfect for the daily which leaves 2/3s for projects. now you're stuck working around that 1/3rd. oh well, I'm sure it'll still work out. just takes a bit more planning. I like to use painters tape on the floor to outline where things might go. gives a good idea of the spaces available for working. make sure your truck's doors can be opened fully and you can still get around the truck.

is that the only man door? how does she get to the house from the garage?

the main benefit from the added material is going to be the largest sections of echo-y sheetmetal, aka the roof and door skins. the material adds mass to them to minimize the vibrations. you don't even need to cover every square inch. but you want a product that has thickness to it. the more mass, the better. I've seen some very thin offbrand crap on amazon that likely doesn't do much of anything in our trucks.

an upgrade along the way. my 96 had the aluminum trim.

starting in 97 all cherokees got the rubber gasket. the window frame and glass never changed so the swap is straight forward (with the slight caveat that some guys have said they needed to trim the clips off, but others didn't. my guess is there's a difference in manufactures of that rubber trim, but that's just a guess. ) be sure to remove your aluminum carefully, as I'm sure someone will need it.

Technically the only things you need for switching are the 134 ports that come in the kit linked below. BUT a new accumulator is very nice. as is new orings and a 134 specific expansion valve. I'm currently redoing a friend's truck and converting as I go. r-12 has real value these days to guys stuck using it. 134 is dirt cheap. convert while you can and never look back. https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Expansion-Valve-Compatible-56003173/dp/B0987GKXZS/ https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-VA-LH11-Retrofit-Conversion-Adapter/dp/B07W91FT8T

he's got 2-pair packs for $68 https://www.ebay.com/itm/314325095312 and this guy has 1-pair for $30 https://www.ebay.com/itm/155360525078

Sell the r12 and do the conversion

we have a package deal with the 3 and yes it went up a bit. I should specify that it's not the live hulu. that's a lot more. but the starwars/marvel shows plus most all the Tigers and Red Wings games are alone worth the bill, and the rest is just bonus. (don't tell Disney I said that or they might jack it up again )

we have PBS and Dis+/espn+/hulu, but most everything I personally watch is on regular ol' youtube. don't really watch much of the corporate tv anymore. ('cept for starwars and marvel stuff) I'm watching a thing on the Battleship New Jersey and its many bags of loose keys as I type this.

yeah, if the system is pressurised, it's going to spew violently once you crack it open. saran wrap isn't going to stop that. if it still has R-12 inside, you should be taking it to a shop to scavenge it.

take a little square of saran wrap, wrap it over the open ends of the hoses/fittings, then hold it in place with a rubber band. prevents moisture and dust from getting into the system while you're working on things. :) I do the same with most all hoses in a car during disassembly. I didn't cover these because I'm installing a new one. my guess is that you've missed a stud? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/

the glorious end of an era. such a cool thing to own.

some plastic wrap and rubber bands will work too. the evap core is the only thing in the cab. you'll need to disconnect it first in the engine bay before you can even begin to disassemble the puzzle box that is the hvac housing.

definitely not possible. the hoses pass through a small hole in the firewall that the evap core won't fit through.

keep me posted. what you find out might help others.

because the smiles per mile of a bland econobox car just can't compare to that from an old Jeep. I'm a big fan of any 8" wide TJ rim. and turbines of course.