Pete M

I believe it is 5/8" narrower on each side. Depending on your wheel backspacing and tire size, you don't "need" a spacer.

:agree: I vote for fuel pump too.

Are your U-joints in good shape? Fluid level in the axle topped off?

Why remove the rear proportioning valve? Is it a flawed system or something? Sorta. Not one of them was functional in any of my MJs. There are no replacements available and the unit itself is not serviceable. I figure if you're going to do all the work of replacing the lines, now's a great chance to bypass it. You don't have to though. But you should replace both of the lines running from front to back if you keep it. The area next to the gas tank is especially prone to rust and failure.

Oh, that stuff. :idea: Yeah, it's not exactly a bedliner material per se. More like a paint mixed with a bedliner mixed with diamond dust. I'm told that it's a bit less messy if I use a pressurized sprayer like I'm supposed to (the guy said the regular sprayer would work fine). :D If anyone is interested in learning more, I direct your attention to this thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10585

I've redone the entire brakeline system on 2 MJs now. One with off-the-shelf straight lines with fittings already attached, and once with bulk line and a flare tool (didn't have a choice, as I was integrating in a '95 XJ booster and those fittings are different than a '90 MJ). For a beginner, I'd recommend the pre-flared straight pieces. Flaring bulk line can be a real pain in the butt. :fs1: I'd also recommend taking the opportunity to remove the rear prop valve from the system, plug the proper port up front, and run a single line to the rear. Also, now's a good time to replace the rear flexy line (I suggest the longer 95 Dakota line) and maybe the front flexy lines too (I suggest the longer YJ lines). Inspect everything associated with the brake system and take stock of what's needed and what should be replaced simply because it's 20 years old and now's a great chance to do it. If too much of your rear brakes are toasted/rusty/bad, I'd suggest looking into alternatives rather than a ton of money on a Dana 35 (I'm assuming that's what's back there).

I passed on a note to Qui Gon. Maybe he's got an idea of where to start looking. :typing:

You're the first I've heard from about that. :dunno:

I don't think he means me. :hmm: I have a story about why you shouldn't use Rhino Lining, but that happened years ago. :dunno:

Now, I'm not condoning this, but if it were one of my trucks, I'd probably just JBweld the thing shut and carry on with my life (with my fingers crossed). Oh, and never use a Fram oil filter.

This is what one TJ owner did with the E-brake. Looks like he simply wrapped the cable around the lever and secured it with a cable clamp.

Is it too late for all of us to come over and write our names in it? :brows:

What's he need a shackle for? :teehee: It's not like there's any movement in that suspension.

fwiw, the 89 dealership brochure gives different heights for the 2wd and 4wd MJs, but only a single height for the XJ. :dunno: But since the roofs are different, I can't directly compare the XJ to the MJs.

The rear would simply require new perches added in the MJ spots. Front would be a pain since the YJ is leaf sprung and you'd need to transfer all of the MJ bracketry.

Spoke too soon. Seems part of CO is a bit less beautiful. :(

Since these mini-forums are mostly for planning wheeling trips and meet-n-greets, anyone is free to check in and post on whichever forum they like. :thumbsup:

Do you have to right-click every time?

Dunno. :dunno: I don't touch IE anymore. Firefox rules!

x1000

Can you snap a photo of the sway bar contact? How much lift did you add? Is it contacting on one side or both sides?

Are most cherokees the same height as a 2wd MJ or a 4wd MJ?

Spelling is automatically and continuously checked in Firefox. :D (I sometimes have to tell it where new text boxes are, but it's very good at remembering after that)

Very true. Forgot to mention that. :doh:

Why would anyone need an engine oil or manual trans oil cooler? Last I checked, the oils we put into them are designed to be at a certain temperature, not cooler. It's bad enough that an auto trans has those weak little fluid lines running around just waiting to fail, I wouldn't want that with my engine oil too. :ack: