Pete M

The 88: The 90: The 86: The 89:

He's lying to ya. There is no cure. :D

Some good parks along I-90: Mt Rushmore, the Black Hills National Forest, and The Badlands National park in South Dakota (all in the same area around Rapid City) and Yellowstone nation park in Wyoming (a bit south of the highway but totally worth just driving through). Be sure to bring a camera and a laptop to store all the photos you'll be taking. :D

Does the truck have longer lower control arms?

Yeah, no diggidy. Unless one of you has a backyard and wants to leave the sprinkler running for a long long time. :D You guys have lots of dirt, you just need to add water.

Any year that has the drivers side differential. At least 85+. Possibly older too. Try to avoid the CAD axles if you can, but they are overcome-able in the same manner as the MJ CAD.

The Isuzu 44 will still need a Grand Waggy front axle (and the GW axle will need to be regeared to match the Isuzu and have the Jeep brackets welded on, so factor that in to your cost).

My family has a tomtom. I don't remember the model number, but it's the one that goes on sale for $100 (normally 150?). It has a couple quirks, but so far I'm quite pleased with it. :thumbsup:

Cleaned the IAC and throttle body lately?

Are you absolutely positive you repaired all the vacuum lines?

2.72 or 3.31

If you have a decent pull-a-part near you, you can grab a bunch of the factory rubber isolators and stack them up. :D

There is a cap, sorta, it's on the top of the pressure bottle. For topping off the antifreeze, use that opening. If you're draining the entire system, many of us will pull the upper radiator hose off and fill the majority of the fluid through it. Except for me. I installed a later model radiator with a regular radiator cap stick out of the top. :D It's exactly the same as the older radiator, but has a small neck and radiator cap on it. If you draining the system, another good tip for filling is, once you've put in as much as you can, prop up the back of the truck so the back of the engine is higher than the front (causing the bubbles in the block to congregate near the back, and then carefully unscrew the temp sensor (located at the top of the back of the head). Don't take it all the way off. Have someone fire up the engine (and be ready to shut it off if anything goes wrong), place a rag over the sensor to protect you if you unscrew it too much and it pops off (you are wearing gloves and safety glasses, yes?), and bleed the air out past the sensor threads. If you don't get all that air out, a pocket could form at the back and cause the engine to overheat. It's the hexagonal cap in the pic.

Well, I've lined up some tools of destruction, but ran out of daylight so I'll just wait for tomorrow. I've got a hammer, rubber mallet, 3" diameter birch log, and I think I'll whip a baseball at it. :D

The gear ratios will likely suck. A lot. :(

Probably kept it because it wouldn't be under all that much shock load stress (since the race isn't abusive in the same way a drag race is). They take off nice and smooth and build up speed fairly gradually.

My 88 suffers from a distinct lack of power at freeway speeds. I haven't been able to dig into it yet, but my main suspects are a loose timing chain (I also suffer from horrific oil blow-by) and fuel delivery (possibly a failing pump or a bad fuel pressure regulator). Back in the day when the truck was a little 2wd DD and I was running 30s on 3.08 gears, the power was fine on the freeway but sucked taking off at stop signs.

Yeah, I seem to remember that problem a few years back when the state park I wanted to camp at in the middle of the week was still snowed in (6ft worth). :yes: Try sending them emails or PMs with a link to this post. That's how we got your attention for the last run. :D

Goodyear MTRs. :thumbsup: Not my favorite tire, but they look cool enough and were certainly cheap enough (picked them up used for under a hundred bucks). I might cut the difference and add an inch to the front of your truck. Also, keep in mind that any height change will alter your alignment.

My t-case skid attaches to angle iron that has 1/2" grade 8 bolts that go sideways through the frame.

Absolutely. As long as the difference is within like 1% or something like that. The reason one axle is 3.07 and another 3.08 (or 4.10 and 4.11 or 3.54 and 3.55) mostly has to do with larger axles having more teeth on the gears and so the manufacturers choose tooth counts that make it as close as possible. If I have these numbers right, the Dana 30 has 41 teeth on the ring gear and 10 teeth on the pinion gear to give a 4.10 ratio, whereas the Dana 44 will have 45 teeth on the ring gear and 11 on the pinion gear giving a 4.09 ratio.

I did that too, when I just had the one. :D

Yup. Sounds like a vacuum issue. The most common failure points in the system seems to be the vacuum lines as they enter the vacuum canister (which is located inside the front bumper on the passenger side). :thumbsup:

that stuff looks like it is impossible to scratch but will it chip if it is dented and does it come in flat green Well, I sprayed my old fender as practice before doing the truck. I think I'll go take a hammer to it and see what happens. :D colors: http://www.zolatoneaim.com/palette.php

I don't see why you'd have a problem. :dunno: I've got 30" tall tires on the rear of my Dakota R/T and I experience no ill effects (factory tires were 28-ish). :thumbsup: Offroad you may find that you don't need low range all that much, but experiment with it to see what works best for each situation..