Pete M

90 and earlier are Renix. The 2.5 has one injector, the 4.0 has 6. No, it likely won't work. :D The real question is, will the rest of your dash harness work with the 4.0? :dunno:

2 down. 2 to go. :D

I'll let the others debate the oil particulars and just say that the best thing I did with my 88 was to start changing the oil every 2k. :D Regular ol' dino oil too. I had synthetic in it earlier and she was even happier with fresh oil all the time. Of course, with my 88 you could feel the difference after 2k miles. I literally lost hp as time went on and on each oil change it was like getting a new truck. :D You do get something for your money with filters though, so I recommend the more expensive ones. Oh, and don't use Fram filters.

The pics may be big, but the camera is taking them at funny angles. :teehee: Must be broken. :D

Engines work more efficiently as the temp goes up. But the parts inside the engine can't get too hot so there's a compromise point in the middle. For the renix 4.0, that number is about 210-220*. A thermostat lower than 190* will not prevent overheating if the rest of the system is not up to snuff. If it's too low, it can slow the engine getting to the open loop computer cycle. For cooling problems, I recommend borrowing or buying an inferred thermometer gun to track the heat around the system. I picked mine up for about $40. It'll show you if the coolant isn't getting through the radiator. It'll show you if the lower passages of the radiator are plugged. It'll show you if your dash gauge is just plain wrong. With that knowledge you can then decide what part of the system is bad. And if the radiator is original equipment, it is probably the first thing that should get replaced. :thumbsup:

Seeing as MJs have a foot more wheelbase, I've got my doubts. :D But I always hate to assume anything when it comes to Jeeps. :doh:

An interesting query. :hmm: I've never given it thought since my Michigan trucks don't have them anymore (rusted away years ago) and since there are no inspections here and my trucks are sticks, I've got zero interest in splicing them back in (although I have contemplated an XJ brake handle install in my 88, just for the heck of it).

Who needs a link? Step 1: rip out entire drivetrain: Step 2: graft in entire new drivetrain that won't explode Step 3: pay out the nose for the best radiator you can possibly afford along with the best E-fans you can find. Step 4: Vent the hood somehow Step 5: pray that it's enough to cool the engine :D Skimming through the first few pages in the projects forum I found these guys: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16611 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16635 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16611 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1771 And advanceadapters.com should have everything you'll need (if you can afford it)

On mine I paid a local shop a couple bucks to bend the 1/4" plate. I didn't think gussets were necessary on mine since I'd be bending the frame up before the bumper brackets started to give. Doesn't hurt to add some though. The first shot is the only one I have of the buildup and the center receiver doesn't have the hole in it yet. The hole is on the backside of the bumper and my front and back bumpers match. Use as many big bolts as you can (including the steering bolts on the other side) The center receiver is the extraction point, the other 2 are the tow-bar points. The rear integrates into my tire carrier.

Yup, it's been done by a few dedicated folks. :thumbsup: Be prepared to kiss your entire drivetrain goodbye and then fight a never ending battle to cool the beast. :(

"without" And the Dana 35 is rated for 225s.

This was posted not too long ago:

Why 33s? You only get 1" more ground clearance than 31s, and 31s are soooo much easier on the wallet and the truck. :thumbsup: 6" of lift and 33s can make for a bed that's difficult to access (not entirely certain how you intend to make use of it). How about a 3" lift, 31s, and go with the metric tonne leafpacks from Hellcreek? Look for used XJ/MJ parts for the front to save a few bucks. At a minimum you'll need coils and a track bar. You can bed the front brake hard lines (if they are in good shape) to get a bit more length, just remove the sway bar if you don't really have a need for it, and if you're really cheap, you can technically reuse your stock lower control arms. I don't condone it though, as lifting the truck with stock arms will pull the tire backwards in the wheel well as well as reduce your caster (which can cause the truck to wander on the road). Cut back a bit on your build plans and put your money into leafpacks that will carry your loads. :thumbsup:

I ran those saggy springs (with an extra main as an AAL) for years and the flex was awesome. :D When I decided to replace them, I found a set in Florida on car-part.com and picked them up on the way back from a Disney vacation. Now the rust-free leafs are installed (again with an extra main leaf as an AAL) and thus far I dislike them. They are too stiff for my tastes. But eventually I'll be able to wheel more often and break them in right. :D

Won't you have to drop the axle anyways? :hmm: And it's gotta be the easiest welding in the world. Both metals are nice and thick and the welds themselves are not under tremendous stress. I don't remember ever hearing of perch welds failing. I guess it might have happened. Heck, some of us have installed everything sans welding, tightened it all up nice and tight, and then drove slowly to a local shop without incident. Brake shops are probably the most common place to get random welding done. Don't fear the welding, it's easy and straightforward. :thumbsup: And that rocky road "kit" is only half a kit. Longer control arms are incredibly important at that height. Don't go cheap on a lift kit just because you think the better kits are for "hardcore" guys. You do get something for your money with ride quality and product quality. :thumbsup:

One down. 3 to go. :D

Could you paste a link here for future searchers? :thumbsup:

You don't have to trust your own welds. I built my bumpers with a small welder that could penetrate tin foil. I used it to tack the pieces together and then hauled the bumper to a local pro for final welds. Super strong and super cheap. :D It is of the utmost importance that you extend the bumper brackets as far back as possible and use as many grade 8 bolts as you can. As you found out, the stock bumper mounts are barely strong enough to keep the bumper from flying off with a strong gust of wind.

Waste of money in my humble opinion. Get some of the beefy perches from Mopar for $15 and find someone local to burn them on for beer. :D

Same here. My 88 is rusty as all get out, but it's no big deal to patch each hole/weakness with non-rust-able materials (or armor) as I find them. And I'll never ever bring a clean MJ to Michigan again (although, admittedly I wasn't the one that brought my 86 here, I just didn't take enough precautions to keep it clean). That's just a death sentence for the poor truck. :(

Acquiring a 350 engine is the easy part of that swap. But if you can do it right, you'll have one ginormous smile on your face. :D Be prepared to kiss your entire drivetrain goodbye and then wage a never-ending war to cool that beast. :thumbsup:

Fixed it for ya. :D

The only thing you'll have to worry about is capping the originating vacuum port :thumbsup:

What about keeping the older pump and using an matching fuel gauge in an A-pillar pod?