Pete M

Keep in mind that most of the common rust areas on our trucks start rotting from the inside-out. :( A simple grind-n-spray will probably not stop anything, only delay the inevitable. But then, a weld in patch won't solve anything if you don't have access to the backside to properly clean/paint it (rockers, frame etc). It's a tough choice for some of us as to how much effort we really want to throw at it. :( If your floors are rotting, you'll want to find/seal the cab leak that has been letting in the water. Bottom line, I hate road salt. :fs1:

Where is the rust specifically?

Got any Club cards to hand them? :brows:

Well, looks like Bettmen got his story and his hockey messiah. I didn't really care if the Pens won, I just wanted Bettmen to lose. Bummer. That crossbar shot really hurt. :(

Story was that it was being towed behind a big motorhome. :dunno:

Or... it drags your tires into oblivion. :teehee: Image Not Found

We all started at the bottom of the Jeep-knowledge ladder. Just keep asking away and we'll help you with what we can. :thumbsup: But Tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more people will see it. Especially when looking for opinions, cause if nothing else, this group has lots of varying opinions. :yes:

All I can add is make sure you fully chemically clean the steel after physically scrubbing it down. :thumbsup:

That reminds me, I've got a set of magnetic flames around here somewhere (they were a gift to my mom for her PT cruiser back in the day). I wonder where they went to... :hmm:

If I wasn't familiar with the truck, I'd probably play it safe and strap the d-shaft up securely underneath the truck (if you didn't know, the driveshaft yoke is what keeps the gear oil inside the trans). But technically, putting the trans in neutral *should* work fine too. :thumbsup:

I stand by my statement in this case. The housing is a known weak point (and a tweaked housing can cause some of the other common failures) and he's jumping the truck. If you find a Dana 35 with 4.10s and it's dirt cheap, fine, go for it. Just be sure to fab up a truss to help keep it straight. But I figure if you want more power, gearing is the way to get more power to the ground, and if you're going to buy a new axle with better gears, you might as well invest your money into a better axle. :thumbsup:

I'd go with 4.10s. :thumbsup:

What doesn't break on them? :dunno: Mine threw a bunch of ring teeth and bent into a smile from massive 30" tires on the street (2wd at the time). Jumping would definitely put too much stress on the weak housing and tubes. An 8.8 can be found for pretty cheap and gives you strength, 4.10s and disk brakes. :thumbsup:

Ah, that makes sense. The stock bumper hangs down pretty darn low. Thought about simply trimming and re-locating the bumper up higher into the sheetmetal?

I'm still unsure of why you want to cut the bed shorter. :hmm: Also, you aren't allowed to apologize for asking questions, no matter how noob you may think they are. :thumbsup: Just ask away! :cheers: See Rule #2: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16664

Please everyone take offers of parts for sale to either the classifieds or to private messages. Thanks. :thumbsup: --Admin

Bushing to bushing, baby. :D Works great! (though the next time around I'm going with a not-Rustys track bar mount) :shake:

Exhaust routing and cooling will be the big concerns.

Looks very good for a rustbelt MJ. :thumbsup: Pulled up the carpet yet?

advanceadapters.com and novak-adapt.com

I'm on my way out the door. You can pick up the slack for a while. :D

$$$$$ or the lack there-of. But enough of this thread hijack. Thinking of my baby just sitting there is making me depressed. :(

Yup, you only have one. 91+ 2.5s will have 4.

Still running the R/T? Rob L. Well, I still own the R/T. :shake: Haven't run it much lately. :(