Pete M

The connector behind the tire can cause problems with any of the rear lights (and the fuel pump too in my 88's case). Also check the reverse light switch on the trans. :thumbsup:

Swapping to MPI would give a bit of a boost for sure. Not sure how ambitious the OP is since that will require all new wiring throughout the truck. A fresh injector on the TBI should help the current system. :thumbsup: Too bad my Dakota already exceeds the max engine size. :doh:

It'll work out great. :thumbsup: Just don't spend any money regearing a Dana35. If you have a 35 and plan to tow, invest in a better axle.

Why bother? It won't affect anything. I've been running gate-less for years now. Bedsides don't move at all. :thumbsup:

Gears gears gears. If you've got 3.55s, those are really holding you back. :thumbsup:

Would RE's website have that info?

I made my own. :D

I'd keep the 2.5 (Jeep was dominating the SCCA races with it back in the day) and swap in an AX-5 (goes right in place of the AX-4) and a 95+ Explorer 8.8 (with 4.10s and disk brakes). The 8.8 came with posi or open, so get an open if you want to throw in a locker. You most likely have a 3.55 geared rearend and that's absolutely killing your power. :( After that I'd swap in a v8 ZJ front sway bar (bigger), firmer shocks (rather than stiffer springs) and look into the air-charged bumpstops. Oh, and I'd drop the engine driven fan for an electric. Rust is so prevalent in my neck of the woods that I'd never ever voluntarily cut the bed.

4) check the wire harness connector located right behind the drivers side rear tire. I had corrosion in there and it was causing all sorts of havoc with the rear lights. :(

My brain is trying to tell me it takes a square 10mm tool. :hmm:

I've not yet heard of anyone having a problem. Our trucks have a much sturdier rear structure than a fullsize (our bed is bolted directly to a fully boxed frame, their beds usually sit on body mounts on a C-channel frame)

Both will vary wildly by area. try car-part.com for junkyards near you

Nothing like a big healthy serving of borrowed time to make one complacent. :D

Sure enough, I found a Chevy v8/v6 to AX-5 bellhousing on the AA site. $455 Scary. :eek:

Speaking of which... did mine ever get sent out? Yup. Went out yesterday. :thumbsup:

I've got comancheclub decals... :dunno: :D

Why the heck would I trade in my paid for truck/suv for a tiny car plus a monthly bill? :hmm: What I see happening here is, people who are already looking for a new ride will buy some junker for a couple hundred and trade it in to get the discount. No benefits anywhere except to the consumer who pawns off that 3500 onto the rest of us. Damn I hate the government and their insanity. :fs1:

Amen to that. :cheers: No cheap shots or dives from the players and no butting in from the refs. :thumbsup:

I blew up the Dana 35 in my 88 back when it was 2wd running 30" tires. :(

The t-case takes ATF fluid. If i remember right, that square hole in the Peugeot trans is metric. Most of us find an old 3/8" extension to sacrifice and ground of a tiny bit. Always make sure you can get the fill plug out before you pull the drain plug. :thumbsup:

There's gotta be some sort of generic all-inclusive kit out there for that sort of situation. :hmm:

I'm sure he was just itchin' for a reason to yank out his carpet. :teehee:

People that claim the engine is "newer" but have nothing to back it up should not be trusted. Don't take anything he says for granted and look into everything yourself, thoroughly.

Be prepared to kiss your entire drivetrain goodbye, pay through the nose for the best radiator and E-fans you can possibly find, and then still fight cooling issues for as long as you own the truck. It's been done before, but our trucks don't lend themselves to an easy v8 swap. advanceadapters.com and novak-adapt.com are good places to start your research.

What did he do to kill a 2.5 after only 100k miles? :eek: