Pete M

It's picked pretty clean. 44 is long gone. and that was the "good" side. the other side had a minor accident and shows signs of what i'm guessing is fire exposure on the fender. I guess I feel slightly better that it was earlier in april. :dunno:

you really only need the axles. I would try to get the steering and brakes with them. the t-case will depend entirely on what drivetrain you're going for. The driveshafts will not work without major mods so I'm not sure what good they'll do ya.

that's the place, but that's not the truck. you're thinking of the other black-ish MJ there.

WJ lower control arms v8 ZJ sway bar ZJ tie rod

he mean the ebay typer site they have Can you point me to this site? I'm totally unfamiliar with it.

very true! fortunately the clutch assembly still works fine with the AX-15.

they have a "sell day"?

and lives near georgia?

:hmm: 231s do not have a fulltime setting. they have only 2wd, 4-high, neutral and 4 low. 242s have the 2wd, 4-high, fulltime, neutral and 4-low

ewwwwww..... :ack:

The AX-4 and AX-5 were found behind 2.5L engines (and also the 2.8L and 2.1Ls). The AX-15 is found behind 4.0L engines (89.5 - 99). The 2 engines do not share bolt patterns. There are 2 ways to mate an AX-15 to a 2.5L, the first is a complicated process using a bellhousing from a 4banger Dakota (which had AX-15s behind their 4bangers) and the other is with an aftermarket bellhousing.

yup, and all shortbeds had the 18 gal tank. longbeds had either the 16 or the 23. and no, the 23 won't fit under your truck without a bunch of fab work. :D

nope. just the proverbial straw. :popcorn:

AAL stands for Add A Leaf. Essentially it's a long leaf that you insert into the pack to help push the truck up. They aren't the best way to go, but they are fairly inexpensive. Since Comanches frequently sit higher in the back, you could even skip the AAL and get a longer rear shackle. You get 1" of lift for every 2" that the shackle is longer than the stock one, so you can only get so much out of them. Look into the drop shackles for Chevy trucks. They are longer than the MJ stuff. Neither of these routes are the best way to lift, but they are a cheap way to get a small boost.

30s will fit just fine on a stock rim and will be ok with the stock gearing. If you want to stay cheap, don't go higher than 2". at 3" you start to need more parts. a 1.75" spacer up front and a AAL in the rear and you should be good to go for now. Advisable upgrades include new shocks and brakelines. and don't forget that any change in elevation will change your front end alignment. :thumbsup:

If I remember right, the last person who had an issue with resurfacing found out immediately. Clutch wasn't engaging properly.

not mine of course. cause there's no way I'd sell anything. :D http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/1471105824.html

the power you apply to one tire will seek out the path of least resistance. in your case, the other tire. sometimes it's the driveshaft (like if a brake pad is catching or something).

in basic terms, caster is how much your axle leans back. The right amount helps the tires stay going straight down the road. too much and it takes a lot more force to turn the tires. too little and the tires will tend to wander left and right. I believe factory for us is 5 or 6 degrees. Try to stick with the 3/4 to 1 ton 8-lug Ford axles (avoid the IFS models). They have the most correct things on them of all the axles out there (when upgrading a comanche at least). Nothing wrong with doing the ford Dana 44 up front now (with a 60 rear) and then upgrading to a 60 front later on.

It doesn't get any easier. :D ya just grind down the sides of the steel bushings until they are flush with the rubber. done! get yourself one of these: and your world will change for the better. :D

didn't he do that to an XJ? I don't see how you can bend the lower control arm bracket on the body side of an MJ. It's pretty darn beefy. Go by a cheap angle grinder and have some fun with it. :D and keep some water on hand to cool things down during the process if you're worried about hurting the rubber. :thumbsup:

email? post up the photo here! :D

Whatever axle you choose, you'll want a drivers side diff. If I remember right, scout front 44 axles are set up for 0 caster angle. Not necessarily the best choice for street driven Jeeps.

Eh, I use the bench grinder maybe once a year. The angle grinder comes out at least once a week. it's just so darn useful. :D

the headliner is subjected to plenty of heat. I'm guessing that's why some glues won't work.