Pete M

nope. just the proverbial straw. :popcorn:

AAL stands for Add A Leaf. Essentially it's a long leaf that you insert into the pack to help push the truck up. They aren't the best way to go, but they are fairly inexpensive. Since Comanches frequently sit higher in the back, you could even skip the AAL and get a longer rear shackle. You get 1" of lift for every 2" that the shackle is longer than the stock one, so you can only get so much out of them. Look into the drop shackles for Chevy trucks. They are longer than the MJ stuff. Neither of these routes are the best way to lift, but they are a cheap way to get a small boost.

30s will fit just fine on a stock rim and will be ok with the stock gearing. If you want to stay cheap, don't go higher than 2". at 3" you start to need more parts. a 1.75" spacer up front and a AAL in the rear and you should be good to go for now. Advisable upgrades include new shocks and brakelines. and don't forget that any change in elevation will change your front end alignment. :thumbsup:

If I remember right, the last person who had an issue with resurfacing found out immediately. Clutch wasn't engaging properly.

not mine of course. cause there's no way I'd sell anything. :D http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/1471105824.html

the power you apply to one tire will seek out the path of least resistance. in your case, the other tire. sometimes it's the driveshaft (like if a brake pad is catching or something).

in basic terms, caster is how much your axle leans back. The right amount helps the tires stay going straight down the road. too much and it takes a lot more force to turn the tires. too little and the tires will tend to wander left and right. I believe factory for us is 5 or 6 degrees. Try to stick with the 3/4 to 1 ton 8-lug Ford axles (avoid the IFS models). They have the most correct things on them of all the axles out there (when upgrading a comanche at least). Nothing wrong with doing the ford Dana 44 up front now (with a 60 rear) and then upgrading to a 60 front later on.

It doesn't get any easier. :D ya just grind down the sides of the steel bushings until they are flush with the rubber. done! get yourself one of these: and your world will change for the better. :D

didn't he do that to an XJ? I don't see how you can bend the lower control arm bracket on the body side of an MJ. It's pretty darn beefy. Go by a cheap angle grinder and have some fun with it. :D and keep some water on hand to cool things down during the process if you're worried about hurting the rubber. :thumbsup:

email? post up the photo here! :D

Whatever axle you choose, you'll want a drivers side diff. If I remember right, scout front 44 axles are set up for 0 caster angle. Not necessarily the best choice for street driven Jeeps.

Eh, I use the bench grinder maybe once a year. The angle grinder comes out at least once a week. it's just so darn useful. :D

the headliner is subjected to plenty of heat. I'm guessing that's why some glues won't work.

If I remember right you got a warning on your first post....... Also I don't think that I have ever seen you do any sort of tech posting on here at all. :brows: :wavey: :dunno: :yes: :???: :doh: :fool: :rotfl2:

the bottom one is the emergency line. note that I made that mistake already when I eliminated that line from my truck. :shake:

I found it easier on mine if I got my fingers between the handle and the little ring behind it and separated the 2 as much as i could.

all i know is the KJs. it's the front caliper body touches the inside of most 15 inch rims. Clearance can be made with some grinding on the caliper body. The "soft 8" rims are said to clear with no grinding. (or you can use pads that are 80% worn as I discovered). On KJs at least. I've never had any problems with the KJ rear disks clearing (they are smaller than the front).

should work. the peugeot has a 21 spline output and the aw4 should have it as well. Pay attention to the input spline length, as some had short and some had long (and for the life of me I can't remember what had what). What gears are in the axle of that 87? :brows:

Everyone should own a grinder. I used it more than anything else for metal shaping in the buildup of my truck. my current one cost me all of $10 on sale at Harbor Freight. No good excuse not to own one, even a small one. :thumbsup:

I figured it was possible.

Photo instructions are located here: :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077

some recent threads for your reading pleasure... :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19737 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19727 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19722

Seems to be a hit or miss situation. some guys have gotten lucky, some have gotten screwed. as a general rule of thumb, we advise against it since the factory says so. :thumbsup:

well, it is free. :D you get what you pay for. :typing: