Pete M

My friends and I picked ours up at midnight. There had to be a hundred people in that line outside the game store :shake: so we drove over to Meijer (like a walmart) and walked right up to the counter. :D Anyways, the game itself is decent, but I lack the words to describe how angry I am that I still can't play online with my friends while I'm actually WITH my friends. :wall: It's still one player per Xbox (and only one of us has an Xbox). What the hell? Does Halo have the patent on online co-op play? :fs1:

Are you thinking of the fuel pump relay? I though the "starter relay" was the big honking guy with a half dozen wires going to it over by the battery?

Our trucks tend to rot fro the inside-out. Pull of the corners of the carpet and check for moisture or funny smells. look underneath for any signs of rot under the floorboards. Right above the rear flares is another spot that typically rots from the inside-out. If you see any evidence of bubbling out the outside, then it's probably pretty bad on the inside. If you're looking to haul a car around, you might want to look into a bigger or newer truck. These little guys are all 20 years old and the brakes will need some maintenance or even upgrading. Trailer brakes are HIGHLY recommended and some would say required.

If you have a 2.5L, then the 89 book will help you out 90% of the time. If you have the 2.8L, well... that knocks down to maybe 60%. Somewhere online (as admin I can really legally point the way) there are some fully-digital and fully free factory 89 service manuals. I bet if you search through the archives here you can find the link. ;)

:cheers: woo hoo!!!

factory. hands down. although occasionally the haynes/chiltons will explain a procedure better. I have all three and sometimes use all 3.

might as well walk through the chevy side of the yard to see what's available. might find something aftermarket and cool. :thumbsup:

1000? noob. :D

Having handled several examples of each, I can't find a single difference in the bushings. Heck, I wouldn't be surprised at all if the entire main leaf was identical 2wd to 4wd. The lift comes from the lower leafs.

I got mine (in generic form) from jcw.com

drive to canada. at least that's the tradition around here. :cheers:

only for NPT pipe threads (fittings that use the threads for sealing). I don't know what type of connectors the clutch line uses, but teflon tape is not to be used on fittings that seal on the flared end inside.

general rule of thumb is an XJ aal will lift an MJ half as much.

I like how the seller claims that the "previous owner" did the work. :rotf:

wow. :ack:

I re-wrapped mine with a leather kit.

Just to be sure, what are you basing this thought on? I hope it's not just because the little 4wd light is stuck on. You wouldn't be the first to have made that assumption. :D

That's a unique floor fix. :D

whoops. XJ, MJ, we all know I can't tell the difference. :rotf: still, I never had that problem with the BFGs in my MJ when it was 2wd with an empty bed. Something different about your Jeep. not sure what it is. :dunno:

squealing a tire peg-leg style is actually pretty easy with a manual trans (all you need is to shock-load it with the clutch pedal to break that initial traction) and isn't generally a good indicator that you have enough gear. Especially so with pickups.

It can be a wise thing to have separate street tires and wheeling tires. :thumbsup:

nothing's 100% with Jeep. :D in 86 it was a 207 or a 229. and there's always the chance a 242 was swapped in. Son't forget that there are different kinds of 231 too, i.e.: 21 and 23 spline inputs.

It's advice that's sig worthy. :D

It's going to be pretty straightforward. Trim off the leaf perches and weld on a control arm bracket kit from one of the aftermarket sources (don't bother with stock MJ brackets, get the stronger stuff). The axles should be about the same width as mine.