Pete M

admittedly my 86 has the normal looking leafpack. later years had the funky thick lower leafs thing going on.

only way I know is to pull the cat and shine a flashlight through it. :dunno:

Yup. that's all. floors, rocker and bedsides. oh and the doors. and the front fenders. and the cab corners, and the tailgate, and the bumpers and every single stupid nut, bolt, connector, and wire. So far the roof is just fine. :thumbsup:

I started a new one in Tech and stickied it. Feel free to fill in all that data from the older threads. :thumbsup:

I'd like to compile a table of all the different combinations of MJ driveline and the length of their rear driveshaft. I need bed length, engine, trans, 2wd/4wd, rear axle and then the length of the rear shaft from center of U-joint to center of U-joint. what we have so far:

I'm not sure she could rust any faster if I dropped her in the ocean.

My 86 metric ton never struck me as rough riding, nor was it much if any higher than a regular 4x4 MJ. But individual results will vary as widely as the sag in 20 year old leafs. A shortbed does have slightly less steel back there to hold up. :dunno:

how about a post asking for driveshaft lengths for all the possible MJ configurations?

just follow the instructions in that link and your front end will act like any other Jeep front end since they dumped the system for good. :thumbsup: No need to swap axles just because of the CAD. the only potential downside is if you've got a bad joint in the front driveshaft. That can cause vibrations. But if you've got a bad joint, you really should fix it anyway so finding out can be a good thing. :D If it really truly made a positive mpg difference, wouldn't ya think Jeep would still be doing it? With all the modern CAFE requirements, I would think they'd be looking for any and all real gains.

I would never EVER swap new gears into an existing Dana 35. That axle just isn't worth the money. Swapping in a new 35 with 3.55 gears would be much cheaper. Having said that, I always like to upgrade when something breaks (about a mile from wirk it started spitting out ring gear teeth), and I swapped in an MJ 44 that had 3.55 gears. :thumbsup:

Welcome to the club! :waving: tech questions should really go in the tech forum so more guys will see them. :thumbsup:

moved it to Tech for ya. :thumbsup:

2wd shafts are way too long for 4wd use, but it's easy to have a shop cut it down to the proper length. :thumbsup:

I swore at my '90 some more.

what size tires?

the transfercase is manually actuated by the big lever in the cab. those vacuum lines come from a little switch on the t-case and go to the CAD (central axle disconnect) on the front axle. The CAD is vacuum actuated. I suggest ripping out all those problematic vacuum lines, plugging the source, and shifting the CAD so that it is engaged all the time. This will not affect any of the 4wd functionality of your truck (Jeep did away with that stupid CAD in the early/mid 90s), it'll only make it infinitely more reliable. :thumbsup: See here for steps to defeat the CAD once and for all: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

which trans? is it coming from the front of the trans or the rear? and are you sure it's not a puddle of engine oil coming from the rear main seal? I ask only because what you experienced is very rare. just want to be certain. :thumbsup:

yeah, but you live in Washington. i'm surprise the state government isn't paying you to cut down a tree here and there just to keep the forest at bay. :yes:

don't waste any time/money on the stock carb. :thumbsup:

found one. :D

they shouldn't have any troubles. all the stuff is swappable. Jeep simply chose not to offer it on the shortbed.

I don't seem to have a shot of it decorated :hmm: , but this is the tree at the georgia house. It's actually a year round inhabitant of the family room, but it does get covered in ornaments this time of year. :D If that seems a bit puny, I like to string lights on the 20 ft tree in the back yard near the deck. :brows: (CC can cozy on the table :D )

you guys are all posting this stuff in your project threads (with the pertinent updates anyway), yes? :D

MJs have a foot more wheelbase than an XJ, so the front driveshaft trick doesn't work. The stock shaft will work ok, but it really should be about an inch longer. :thumbsup: If you have a 4.0/auto, a 4.0/stick rear shaft will be one inch longer.

the closed system allows the engine to comfortably run at a hotter temp and a hotter engine means better combustion. Or so the theory goes. Not sure if that translates into real world numbers, but Jeep is far from the only manufacturer to use the concept. My neighbor's Caddy has it. People seem to badmouth the closed system, but I notice that most of their issues stem from 20 year old parts.