Pete M

started a project thread yet? :brows:

You lucky son of a... Rob L. ;) I wanna go back. you ever get a response from that guy about the Thunder Chief?

How far can he throw it? :D

:rotf: it costs about $30 per year per vehicle for fire/theft. [/thread hijack] Wade have you unplugged the CPS yet? Any corrosion inside? Checked all the wire connections throughout the ignition system? I had a hard-start issue in the 86 that was simply corrosion in the positive wire on the ign coil.

I saw at the Chrysler storage building. Essentially Chrysler is keeping it and they take it around on tours with other Jeep concepts and rare jeeps. :thumbsup:

what was there before was too small and indoor-use-only. I'm replacing it with heavy duty outdoor stuff. :thumbsup: :rotf:

I'm told it's Romex. 3 plus ground, solid strand, in a black sheath. Looks like household wire. Oh, and we've found that the conduit as it nears the garage was only 3" underground. We're doing this proper this time. 8 gauge individual wires in continuous outdoor conduit to a breaker box in the garage. 40 amp double breaker in the house, two 20 amp breakers (initially) in the garage with space for 4 more. It'll be 220 capable :D

does the knocking sound like it's coming from the trans? When was the last time you check the gear oil level in the Peugeot?

it's possible that the bulbs are simply burned out. When you pull the cluster to check, also look closely at the back wiring to see if there are any cracks or breaks in the lines. :thumbsup:

nope the shifter won't pull back properly? or nope there isn't any rust underneath? This thread will show you how to fix the CAD (the vacuum pod thing, stands for Central Axle Disconnect) and never worry about it again. :D viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

The garage is still there, though darker than before. And the more I dig, the more I'm shocked that the guy ran the wires how he did. He was a licensed electrician for goodness sake! I've discovered that the decidedly undersized wire (for anything more than florescent lights) was routed through an opening in the basement wall (a short piece of pipe that seems original to the house), routed under the deck BARE, and enters metal indoor conduit right at the other end of the deck with NOTHING TO PREVENT WATER FROM ENTERING THE TUBE!!!!!! Not even electrical tape. :fs1: This is why I always do the work myself. If necessary, I'll pay a pro to check my work.

If you want something that will save your neck, you might want to focus on getting materials that will actually save your neck. OEM stuff is not really know for that. DOM is where it's at. :thumbsup: I agree with you 100% if i was going to use my mj hardcore. Worst it might see is a flop on its side. If i do end up wheelin it harder in the future DOM for sure and use the first as a template. Most guys that roll over never intended to. I have a friend that endo-ed his willys twice down a big but gradual hill cause he caught a rock wrong at the top. His cage held up fine. In my opinion, if you're contemplating a cage, you're already wheeling plenty hard enough to justify doing it right. Otherwise, go with a rollbar (and a real one, not the aftermarket light bars). I did. 2" DOM and it's welded securely to the frame. The only thing I regret is not adding the diagonal in the initial build. I had planned on putting it in with phase 2, but that phase fizzled and so I'm stuck with less strength than I wanted. :(

My 90 MJ exhaust has been delayed a bit. Seems the garage wiring has decided to burn itself up. the two legs shared a common neutral and for whatever reason it overloaded and fried (nothing was happening other than I tried to turn the lights on). We found water in the conduit running to the garage (can't say if that's the cause though) and so tomorrow I'll be digging up the whole mess to run new stuff. I've been wanting to rewire the garage for years now, but didn't want to do it in the cold. booooo. Oh well. Here's to upgrading. :D

It'll require some customization for sure, but I don't remember if anyone actually measured to see if the bigger tank would hit the axle.

I guess. I'd still use DOM for the main hoops and hrew for the straight pieces.

are there any threaded holes in those little brackets?

better ask the guys to be sure. :thumbsup:

and some of us are just partial to the look of a stock MJ on big ol' 31s. :D

That's more typical of the newer vehicles. Our old Jeeps use a old style Chevy alt that is wicked common and so is pretty cheap. :thumbsup: Also, I'd go for the 100 amp version if possible. :brows:

If you want something that will save your neck, you might want to focus on getting materials that will actually save your neck. OEM stuff is not really know for that. DOM is where it's at. :thumbsup:

Nah, that would have cost money for a new driveshaft. This here's a budget build. :yes:

I found a quarter on the sidewalk yesterday. :thumbsup:

With all the CFC Jeeps in the yards, I would not have thought it would be all that difficult. :dunno:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19787&p=203444&hilit=ebay+chevy+shackles#p203444

WJs have a different bolt pattern.