Pete M

x3 on the cleaning. You MUST clean the rust and paint and everything else off the areas to be welded!

Seems like an opportune time to replace all the rubber pieces in the fuel lines too. :thumbsup:

I'm not sure what years, but Chrysler made an awd minivan too.

Firefox spellchecking ftw!

the 86 was rust free until some guy brought it up here from a farm in Oklahoma (originally a california truck). She was beat up, but pristine when I bought her. :( I'll never let another clean MJ touch a Michigan winter. :fs1:

chances are very good it'll have a Dana 35. And 3.07 gearing, which sucks. Dunno how that padding comes out. I always cut the thing out. Better ask the guys :thumbsup: (tech questions should really go in the tech forum anyway)

Sprinkle baby powder all over the suspect area. as the water seeps in, it'll make trails through the powder, leading you right to the source. :D Then let it dry out and vacuum it up. :thumbsup: It's helped me find 2 leaks so far that I never would have found otherwise.

Do the rear main seal while it's out. :thumbsup:

one in the same. :thumbsup: But you might want to put a past tense in that statement. as with all my Michigan trucks, they look better from a distance. :(

That's a huge chunk o' dough. for under a grand you could buy a whole XJ and part out all the unnecessary stuff. :thumbsup: Or buy the XJ, swap the 4wd stuff for your 2wd stuff and re-sell the XJ. :D cluster won't work, you need an 87-90 era. the baby powder trick can help you out with the leak detection. and welcome to the club! :waving:

Only an MJ axle will bolt-on. but it's real easy to get perches burned onto that XJ axle. check with your local muffler shop.

the family CRD, hauling yet another load of stuff. :yes: My 86 in its current employment; as my storage locker. :D

getting the right gear ratio is far more important than perch location. getting perches welded on is pretty easy. :thumbsup:

very true, but freakjeep might, uh, freak if he didn't at least sign in top the intro thread there. :D

hence the need to replace that temp switch. and if you're going to do that, you might as well put that money towards gauges and the 2 sending units (oil and temp). :cheers: plus you can get a tach too!

If the 4" lift isn't causing any problems, why go higher? :dunno: a taller truck leads to a higher COG, and a higher COG than necessary is generally a bad idea, especially on the street and especially since your track width is still about stock.. If you're itchin' for a project, what about WJ control arms, a big ZJ swaybar, and a proper track bar? Just make sure that the trackbar is good for 4-6" so you won't have to replace it twice should you change your mind later. :thumbsup: How is your rear lifted now? Oh, and check with your local muffler place. chances are if you walk in with an axle and some perches, they'll burn it on for pretty cheap.

time to upgrade to a full instrument cluster. :thumbsup:

inch-itis has been the cause of many a headache and empty wallet. are your shocks 6" capable? the brake lines? sway bar links? If it's still stock, then your track bar is beyond maxed out already.

tech questions should really go in the tech forum so that more people will see them (and then they are searchable in the tech database) :thumbsup:

I'm curious as to why you need more lift?

you'd better post up in the canadian forum too, or I'll never hear the end of it. :rotf:

sweet. :D always wanted to go to haspin.

I hate the amber lenses. they just pop out at the eyes, and not in a good way. I like the simpler color scheme. Just you wait til I have the shaker hood. And if I happen to have too much money someday, I'll be stroking the engine to 401 and installing a 6spd manual. :D

the black one died in the accident. this cheap chrome died in the sun. I picked up a factory chrome on craigslist for $15 that will be going on eventually. The chrome stays. :fs2:

off topic? I hadn't even noticed. :D that's nothing by CC standards. :rotf: