Pete M

I'm not up on the measurements. :dunno: But I'm not sure you'd need to line the outside. the old one lasted 20 years. I doubt you'll ever have to replace it again. :D

2" spacers and chevy shackles and you're done. :thumbsup: Each inch up from there requires more and more stuff.

any old MJ can be used for that. The OP was excited that it was a low mileage truck. you only get that once. If that's not important to the owner, he can do whatever he likes. If it is important, then i don't suggest making drastic changes. Whatever it may or may not be worth, low mileage survivors are rare.

what do you want out of your truck in the end? looks? light trails?

yup. in Jeeps the AX-5 is a 2.5/2.8 trans, the AX-15 is a 4.0 trans.

You already have February picked already? Is it too late to start a poll? Who should be February MJ of the month? 1. goblazers_6 2. Darren 3. Mistress Moneypit (Something like that.) Sorry Darren. no free advertising for you. :dunno:

bolt-on or custom?

snap crackle pop. :(

put the new license plate sticker on 2 of mine.

that'll happen. :yes:

Yup, sounds like your CAD (central axle disconnect) system isn't engaging. It's a very common issue caused by poor engineering. One easy and permanent fix is this: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415 The CAD is essentially a 2-piece axle shaft on the front passenger side with a sliding collar to lock it together. Your transfercase is likely sending power to the front axle, but without the CAD locked, no power can get to the wheels. If you lock the CAD permanently, your truck will function just like any Jeep since the early 90s (when Jeep eventually did away with the crappy system in favor of a one-piece axleshaft).

general consensus for fuel tanks is to just go buy a new one. they are impossible to ship used (hazardous), and anything from your area is likely just as bad of shape. :( there are 2 tanks available for the longbeds (16 and 23 gal), and they do not interchange with a shortbed (18 gal).

as someone with a spool up front (ford dana 44), I can tell you that the chances of disengaging the CAD when you really need to will be almost zero. with no hope of differentiation, the system binds up and won't even let you steer. You'd have to find a way to eliminate all of the bind just for the hope of getting the CAD to let go (backing up, putting it into 2wd, etc.). And if you are successful, you're now sending ALL that power through one little 260 joint. Sounds like a recipe for disaster. :( I hate my front spool and it will be swapped out for a regular locker at the first opportunity.

nice. :thumbsup: is she really as clean as the photo implies?

did all the 242s have a sealed rear output?

seat belts are slightly different. Your bucket truck won't have the third belt, and the bucket belt female sides may not go through the holes in the bench very easily (they are in a sheath that bench belts don't have). but the seats themselves will interchange readily. just need a 13mm ratchet. :thumbsup:

Anyone know of a good video on proper weld preparation? I can't seem to find one that shows how to prepare the materials. :dunno:

she's a beaut! :bowdown:

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1535381859.html

all depends. once you exceed 6", you should seriously consider one. If nothing else it's a very good strength upgrade. But as long as you get a driveshaft of the proper length, you can get by without a SYE.

they are more than a mile higher up in the atmosphere than you. the mountains are always much cooler than the lowlands.

oops, missed that part. although I went in late May/early June and some of the state parks were still snowed in. check out the rocky mountain trip planning forum. :thumbsup:

they never worked in any of my trucks. usually the problem stemmed from corrosion inside or behind the lighter itself. I bought heavy duty aftermarket versions from the auto parts store. :thumbsup:

Colorado has TONS of great trails! :thumbsup: Problem with this time of year is figuring out which of them is passable and which has 10 feet of snow. :dunno:

hey Rob, couldn't you just leave the door to the house open? I mean, there will be a transition period during the initial warm-up, but after the garage is fully insulated, couldn't you just treat it as an extension of the house during the project build? :dunno: