Pete M

take it to a tire store with the proper machine and they make numerous little cuts in the tire surface so that you get better wintertime traction. Essentially replicating a snow tire (though true snow tires are also made from a super sticky compound). Those little lines found in normal tires are what helps you stop in slick weather. Tires without them can be very dangerous, especially under a lightweight truck. your next tire (wider version): a snow tire: a BFG with some siping added: background info on siping: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siping_%28rubber%29

definitely possible.

since the forum software won't let me let you check a poll option more than once for multiple MJs :fs2: , we'll have to do this the hard way. But don't worry, Correy has promised to do all the work and compile the data. :D In addition to the poll (which is really just there to look cool), please post up with both your current Comanche fleet and then your past Comanche fleet. Original factory options only please. Please include bed length, 2/4wd, engine, trans type, and trim level. if you're unsure of anything, just put "don't know". I'll go first. current: 1986 LB 4wd 2.8L manual base 1988 SB 2wd 4.0L manual Pioneer 1990 SB 4wd 4.0L manual Pioneer 1990 SB 2wd 4.0L manual don't know Past: 1990 SB 2wd 4.0L manual don't know

If I was keeping it relatively stock, I'd hunt down a TJ with the Dana 44 rear. they came with 3.73 gears to better handle a small bump in tire size. :thumbsup: though I don't remember the name of the package that gave you that. :dunno:

yup, it's possible that your clutch isn't fully disengaging. :(

be prepared to rotate frequently and sipe them if you intend to drive on snowy roads. :thumbsup:

soooo, then maybe it's an ex-postoffice XJ with a ga-zillion miles on it and a swap-in cluster? :dunno: I'd car-fax that one for sure.

3k is way overpriced. You can go buy a nice 1k XJ that hasn't been abused and then install your own lift and overweight bumper. :thumbsup:

nope. I like the current setup too. :yes:

31s in 15x7 Jeep rims work very good and have minimal rubbing on the lower control arms. 31s on the 15x6 Jeep rims might have a bit more rubbing on the LCAs when at full turning lock, but shouldn't be all that bad. Adding a washer behind the steering stop bolt should fix it (or swapping in the WJ lower control arms).

the auto-vs-manual debate is mostly about personal preference. what do you prefer driving. I'd swap a stick into my minivan if I could. :waving:

This writeup was emailed to me a while back. might be of some help.

couldn't he have installed another sunroof in that Camaro? :dunno: I like sunroofs too. :D I had a couple installed in my 88.

I kept catching the brake pedal with my boot when I let up on the gas so I pulled off the pad and hacked off a bit of the pedal.

my "phase 1" rollbar. 2" DOM fully welded/bolted to the frame. I designed it and constructed the frame mounts but had a local fab guy bend/weld it up for me. cost me maybe a hundred bucks.

try to get the slave with the used trans. in fact, make sure you get everything inside the bellhousing too :thumbsup:

there were only 2 choices for CJ pilot bushing when I got mine. a $10+ part and a $2 part. the $2 one is what you need.

oh, and be prepared for the bolts holding the sway bar up to snap like twigs. :(

here are many different sizes out there. bring a measuring device and measure yours first so you have a baseline.

there may be more to this conundrum than extra force on the road surface. if he's using these tires to plow snow, he needs a tire that ill work on the snow and ice. the old military style tires are not made for that. What is the purpose of these tires?

within a week of buying my very first MJ I hacked off a portion of the right side of the brake pedal because my work boots kept catching on it. floorpans were stock.

The original poster owns an 86 2.5L and so has throttle body injection so it's technically possible that the swirling action can enhance the distribution of the fuel. especially if the old injector isn't spraying like it should.

As Correy said, Automatics don't have a flywheel so you'll need to find one. and when you get it, the flywheel and specifically its CPS tone ring must match your 89 or your truck won't run. The tone ring on a 96 will be different. if the clutch assembly comes with the release bearing, then grab the 96. but either year clutch will work. I'm running the original 88 clutch with my swapped-in 99 AX-15. not sure on the pedal assembly. :dunno: the later model clutch master cylinder can be made to bolt to the older truck, but it takes a bit of fab work. someone here had a write up on that, but I don't remember if it ever got into the DIY forum so it might be in the Tech forum. :hmm: Get the 96 bellhousing. :thumbsup: it will be external slave and superior to the older ones.

^^^ has the same favorite avatar as me. :D