Pete M

Not sure if 6" less wheelbase is really the answer. :dunno: what's in the rear diff? welded? locker? gear ratio?

the difference in weight between a SB and LB is all of 88 lbs. :dunno:

Keep all those records! :bowdown: It'd be awesome to have all those numbers (once it's running right of course) so other members can reference them in the future.

Just because it's the "easiest", doesn't make it outright easy. Any conversion is hard. You'll need a real 4x4 shop to do all that custom work.

:dunno: all I did was click on that first link, rightclick on the photo for the "copy link location", posted that here, highlighted it, and clicked the IMG tag. I've never used the pre-made addresses that any photo service provides. I always rightclick directly on the photo. :thumbsup:

checked the timing?

what about testing the sensor outputs at the computer? maybe something is wrong with the wire harness that's causing the computer do screw up.

have you tested the fuel flow rate? pressure is one thing, but if there's not enough flow the engine will run lean.

how many miles? original timing chain?

fuel filter? bad gas?

clogged cat?

I never did writeup. :oops: I'll see what I can do when I get a chance.

If you've got a CAD, I would do this: -turn on the truck (engine should be on for this test to assure vacuum is available for CAD operation), -shift into 4wd high, -drive like 20 feet just to be sure everything has moved into place (t-case and CAD collar), -block a tire and put truck in park if auto or shift into neutral for manuals, -jack up front/passenger side tire and try to spin it. If the CAD and t-case work properly, then that front tire shouldn't spin. If it moves, then try to rotate the front driveshaft. If the t-case works properly, then the front driveshaft won't move.

Maybe next time you should wheel with the trailer. :brows:

skid plates are reeeeal nice to have on a lowered truck. :yes: lord knows I've run over a thing or two on the road in the R/T.

how'd the trailer hold up? :brows:

:rotf:

welding on all the MJ brackets. also regearing.

are you sure you're in 4wd when in low range?

It is never a bad idea to replace an old radiator or old hoses purely because they are old.

I'd drill out the head of the bolt.

Are you inquiring about the fuse box?

offers of stuff for sale should be done through PMs so as to keep it out of Tech. that's all I'm saying. He should have PMed you the offer. now don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that Rymanrph is this kind of person, but there are some guys that have no shame and will try to sell their crap in tech and the pub and everywhere else and so we have that "rule". We have a classifieds and the ability to send/receive private messages so there's no need to publicly sell stuff in Tech. :cheers:

Or just shim the fork over to engage the cad all the time.