Pete M

yup, that's it.

it is what it is.

been there, done that. sometimes ya just get sick of dealing with a thing and fix it even though an upgrade is on the horizon.

awesome! don't sweat the stud, you've got 4 more.

if you don't yet own a 5-way scraper, go buy a nice (and simple) one. one of the best tools ever made. (it's in the painting section at lowes) no need to buy anything called a 9-way or whatever the more complicated versions are called. the basic is best for our purposes. (but do buy a quality one)

you can't possibly see where it is leaking if the trim is in place. probably not with the trim removed either. maybe on the inside of the truck? the good news is that you don't need the trim with the aftermarket window. so if it all fails horribly, none of the factory stuff is needed.

score!!! what a survivor! I would leave it alone and watch it appreciate in value.

removing the trim will teach you patience. I'd never removed one either before that first one. I'm removed maybe a dozen now and most have been easy and straight forward. a couple were hard and at least one got left behind in the junkyard because someone used waaaaaay too much glue on the window and had effectively glued the trim in too. the only new rear window available is made by CRL and is a 4 pane slider window. I just installed one in the truck I'm help fixing up. but if you're dead set on slapping some caulking in there, I guess I recommend some black RTV.

yup, they are absolutely not available new anymore but they are reusable. usually they get peeled off before even trying to cut out the window. all depends on how much adhesive was used to glue in the window and this hoe much oozed out into the trim. start near the top corner and get the sides by the corner free, then work ont he corner and then along the top. leave the bottom corners for last since they are the trickiest and by then you'll have the most slack to work with.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/195835878505

it's always an option to leave it alone and enjoy it as a classic old truck. they don't all have to be hotrods. but if you still have the factory carb, I'd upgrade that. but the link in my signature has some threads on the 3.4L swap. including using the mid 90s chevy fuel injection for some modern drive-ability.

the proper fix is to pull the glass, remove all the old urethane adhesive, fix the rust that's likely there, and reseal it. you're going to need to pull the carpet to even attempt to dry it out, so I'd advise doing that first, then do the window, then check for other leaks and fix any rust you find, then put the interior back. it's a royal pain, but it's the proper way to know it's done proper.

@Minuit

try posted up in the wanted section. I'm sure someone has an extra they'd let go for less than ebay prices.

lucky!!!

should be a link in the link in my sig. you'll need a multimeter.

yes and no. but it's pretty easy to test the sensor.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Driver-Passenger-Hydraulic-Compatible/dp/B0BSGDN9TZ/

gotcha. found a pair on amazon for 35 bucks. generic-ness achieved.

you got to go out and enjoy your Jeep without fixing it to get home. life is good.

brand?