Pete M

red might clash with the MJ.

yes. :thumbsup: who's doing the gear setup?

is it 87-92? if not, then you have to check.

don't get any on your hootus.

rules of thumb for 87-92 MJs 4.0 + auto = 3.55 4.0 + stick = 3.07 2.5 + auto = 4.56 2.5 + 4spd stick = 3.55 2.5 + 5spd stick = 4.10 uber rare fuel economy package = 3.31s rules of thumb for 86 MJs metric ton = 4.10s beyond that, ya really gotta check to know for sure.

:waving:

I've got 200k on my 2.8 and it still putters along pretty well. :D even better is it does that with no factory wire harness in the truck. when it comes down to it, the 2.8 really only has 3 minor issues. less horsepower than the 2.5, a problematic carb, and internal oiling design problems (that can unfortunately cause sudden and catastrophic failure) that seem to be associated with our Jeep versions more-so than the ones in chevy trucks. upgrade parts are available. replacement parts are available. junkyards are full of potential donors. :D

86-90 all share the same block part number. failing finding one of those in good shape, 91-00 share the same block part number and will go in with minimal hassle.

I bet the wrangler had a more restricted intake. I've heard that about the 4.0 in them so it stands to reason the 2.5 had a similar intake. dunno for sure. :dunno:

The AMC 2.5L was in Cherokees for their entire run and Wranglers until around 03 and was used in Dakotas for a while too. I promise. :thumbsup: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_Straight-4_engine

what's a "chrysler" 2.5? car-part.com lists 91-01 blocks as the same part number. AMC, are you thinking of the ignition system?

that's what we're here for. :thumbsup:

then you should have 3.55s now. :thumbsup: I'd look for a 4.10 MJ or XJ rear axle. car-part.com may help out. be sure to check the various generations of XJ since minor changes in the rear axle can change the part number and thus change the search even though the axles will all work for you purpose. an 8.25 or Dana 44 would be better than a Dana 35 if you can find one with 4.10s. :thumbsup: gear changing is not as simple as unbolting this and bolting in that. gears must be set up perfectly or they will make noise, wear out quickly or in a worst case scenario, die even faster than that. changing them requires some specialized tools and a lot of experience. and even a pro could spend hours on a single axle. It's one of the few things I leave to a pro.

2003 if you just need a new block.

it's simpler than that. Over the years Jeep routinely put the same ratios behind certain engine/trans combos. 4.0L or 2.5L? auto or manual trans? if manual, 4speed or 5speed? You don't need to get a 44, another 35 with a better ratio will work just as well. It costs way more to change the gear ratio in an axle ($300-500) than it does to buy a junkyard axle with the ratio already in it ($100-200).

x2 also, you should never ever change the ratio in a Dana 35. that axle isn't worth the investment. change gears by changing axles. :thumbsup:

:clapping:

so I've discovered how cheep the usb 2.0 ports are on ebay. :D then when I opened up the old girl, I discovered why that "wireless signal not found" warning pops up. turns out there's a wifi card in my desktop that (I'm assuming) only needs the external antenna. (I got the desktop used/free many years ago and really never did anything with it since at the time it was light years better than the ancient brick I had before (anyone remember the 486?) and was happy just for that). and while I've got it open I'm going to fill that open ram spot if I can find an affordable 1gig pc2100 or 2700 card. I've been so spoiled by using my father's laptop that when I switch back to the ol' desktop I'm reminded of how painfully slow it is. :ack: So when all is said and done, it'll be one step closer to the 21st century. :clapping:

need some photos. :thumbsup:

because they use different wires coming from the cab.

I would check the the front indicator sockets for corrosion. also, there's a harness connector right behind that rear drivers tire that likes to corrode and cut power to the rear. got a trailer harness spliced in?

I paid all of $40 for my front grille/headlight/etc assembly. no fenders or bumper. I prefer the stock stuff.

that's still deathwobble. DW is a violent, uncontrolable occilation in the front suspension. and my bet is that there's more under that truck that's worn out. DW could in theory be allowed by a single faulty component, but more likely it's a combination of slightly worn parts that allow the slop needed. there's a line in the sand. cross it and you can get DW. each worn out part gets you closer and closer to the line, but for every "this is what caused it", there are plenty more that had the same worn part but no DW. I've experienced bad trackbars, bad unitbearings, bad steering boxes, and lord knows bad shocks and bad control arm bushings. Never once have I had DW. :dunno:

x2 :drool:

your bench has the same floor brackets (but only half the slider). so if you're going to snag them, make certain the sliders are attached. :thumbsup: