Pete M

2wd only have the rear shaft.

cot tent ftw the truck is pretty sweet too.

that means a lot less than you might think.

he did eventually check and the door says 86.

for a rear shaft, your local driveshaft place, or adams driveshaft or dennys driveshaft online will make you one better than stock. for a front, that's shared with XJs of the same drivetrain so I'd source a junkyard one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285350825131

keep up on your tire rotations and they should stay quiet. mud tires tend to get noisy quickly if they are allowed to wear funny.

If you're alone in a junkyard and you use the wire-saw method for extraction it is super-duper easy to accidentally cut into the B-pillar plastic. It's also possible to NOT do that so I'm just saying be careful.

if the reason that the seal has failed is rust, sealing on top of it will only make it worse over time.

when you've got multiple kids, sometimes one gets priority.

I was this many years old when I learned Crown was making them. these are just random ebay auctions. feel free to hunt down other sources. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133356521856 https://www.ebay.com/itm/192048200216

aggressive!

the manual transmission MJs most definitely do not have any device that prevents you from turning the key while the shifter is in gear and thus letting the starter move the truck forward (and eventually starting said truck and driving away). very handy technique when your clutch fails on you.

and out with even more of the old... harmonic balances should not move in and out and it appears that dent did a number on the oil pickup too.

bringing this thread back from the dead! I'm finally to the tiling stage of the kitchen I'm installing.

so I noticed that the HB was suuuuuper close to the timing cover and so I stuck a 5way in there and I can pry and cause the HB to move forward. this is a bad thing, right? time for a new one? the rubber thingie seems to be falling apart. I'm going to put a new one in.

there must be a dozen places over in that area for rain to get in.

the 10" logo ones? or the website ones? either way I should have both.

out with the old...

the rubber trim can be removed by you today without disturbing the actual window. it just peels out (sorta). it is inconsequential to the glass mounting or the sealing out of the rain. it's just a beauty piece. (ok, so technically it helps keep debris out of the window mounting channel so it's not purely a beautification item )

same questions I mentioned above apply. but additionally, what does it weigh and is it worth that weight for the amount of power it makes? plus what transmission can you use? anything is possible, but few swaps are actually worth the effort needed or the power gained.

there is no reason why the current window can't be removed and resealed properly.

I've learned that it's important that everyone in the vehicle share that same level of enthusiasm. not everyone is happy when I announce that we need to blast the heat in the Jeep for a bit because it's starting to overheat on the 100 degree day.

this idea is new to me so you'll likely be inventing as you go. common potential issues with odd engine swaps are: oil pan location relative to the front axle (obviously contact between the two is very bad), engine width (including exhaust) relative to the frame rails (not every engine fits our tiny engine bays), finding a radiator that can work, and wiring (specifically making sure that the computer will be happy after you change a ton of parameters and sensors around).