Pete M

yup, there's an access hole under the tailgate.

hey, it took a lot to convince him to get the dewalt cordless tools. :yes: what stihl can I get for 300?

it's perfectly flat. and by that I mean it's so flat and vast that you can see the curvature of the earth (meaning that it's not actually flat at all).

salt. it gets on everything. :ack: if you haven't seen them, my photos from last year are here: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22412500

it's a small truck designed during the 80s. don't expect any miracles. (though you might want to pray for one)

Dad and I stopped by the chainsaws in Lowes today and he seemed ok with the $300 price tag on the 18" Husqvarna, but I get the feeling that'd be the upper limit for price. too bad they don't let ya fire them up for a test drive. :brows: http://www.lowes.com/pd_197596-86886-96 ... Id=1229529 why is it that so many chainsaw brands are carried by little hole-in-the-wall "dealers"? it makes it that much harder to compare products and prices. :fs1:

18", not 80". :D

yeah. I've been meaning to snap a shot of her in with her new paint but wearing the big tires. :brows: I'd have to dig out said tires and mount them up so we'll see how the day goes.

lookin' to get dad a chain saw for the Georgia house. I'm thinking around 18" in size but besides that, I'm not all up on the latest and greatest features. My dad will be using this mostly so I want safe and reliable. Got waaaay too many memories of chainsaws that refused to start. thankfully I have no memories of any injuries. :D

this one? I saw them too. :D I might have seen you last year but I don't remember a red MJ. :dunno:

short answer: 1- remove everything from your truck except the axles 2- remove everything from the XJ and put it into your MJ 3- go have fun :D

the 88 is sitting on it's tires again. :D rear axle is together and rear driveshaft is installed. Tomorrow I'll dig out the mess that has blocked it in and go for a test drive.

short answer is that results will vary. what I would recommend is do the swap the way you want and if the rears lock up too soon, simply splice in an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve into the rear line. :thumbsup:

if it was cheap enough, I'd still grab that 44. heck, depending on how much tooth was gone, it's still usable as-is. :thumbsup:

part of screwing up is taking the ribbing that others give you afterwards. we all go through it. :D if you're going to build another, then by all means, take lots of pics and share. plenty of us here who want to see. :yes:

aftermarket rollbar. :thumbsup: all Jeep rollbars mounted to the front angled part of the wheelwell.

I hate to say it, but you should be able to build that outta pipe. it'll be strong enough to take the dynamic forces of a few hundred pounds of gear. be careful of how you attach it to the MJ though, as those flanges that pipes screw into tend to be brittle (they are just cast).

stronger with bigger brakes.

oooooooo...... low mileage MJ... :drool:

just make sure you keep it straight. higher number = lower gears :thumbsup:

could be. a fusible link is a short piece of wire designed to fail and protect the rest of the harness. there are a few of them all clustered together somewhere over by the battery. maybe at the starter relay? been a while since I've thought about them. they are funky looking compared to the rest of the harness. the way to inspect them is to pull them and check for continuity.

you might have fried one of the fusible link wires near the battery.

I have a TJ ax-15 in my 88 and of course it didn't come with that particular part so I made my own from a straight piece of aluminum.

do not associate rpms directly with fuel consumption. it's far more complex than that. the basic goal is to keep your engine in its optimum torque range because that's where the best fuel economy happens. Lets assume that your current setup was ideal (it's likely already running at a bit lower rpm than ideal). when you install 33s, in order to maintain a given speed the engine will now be at a much lower rpm which is now lower than optimum and now the engine is working extra hard to maintain that same speed (meaning it's consuming more fuel). adding in lower gears (higher number) brings that back up to the optimum. keep in mind that bigger tires are, well, bigger. they weigh more and have more friction with the ground and mpgs can suffer num matter what you do. the key is to get the best bang for the buck. tire diameter and gear ratio are directly related to each other when it comes to both engine performance and mpgs. when you change one, you need to change the other. :thumbsup:

it's not a gear "rating", it's a gear ratio. :thumbsup: as in the ratio of teeth between the ring and pinion gears. 4 to 1, 3.5 to 1, etc. if you add big tires but keep the same gear ratio, the mpgs will go down. upgrading the gear ratio will pick that back up. the gear ratio is literally the leverage that your engine gets over the tires. think of upgrading to 4.10s as putting a pipe extension on a wrench. takes less effort to accomplish the same task (undoing a bolt in this example).