smg1986

1986 Comanche XLS 127xxx on the clock. 4 banger 2.5l / AX5 / D30/D35 Sticker is long gone Currently located in the great state of Iowa Used as light wheeler/hauling/DD as of now. Bought from a guy who swore the master was low on fluid, since you couldn't shift into first without starting there and taking off. Replaced both master and slave immediately. Fixed floor board rust, starting to rust elsewhere now. Good running motor though, has yet to fail me other than misc easy fixes here and there. Red interior with buckets, POR15 for carpet, 5speed floor shift current owner - me

http://ames.craigslist.org/cto/2335394515.html

progress made slow but steady. cut out all bad metal, grinded the crap out of floor pans. now time to find a welder or decide to rivet/sealant route. then POR the whole thing and throw down some heavy duty rubber mats. i am thinking of leaving the giant wood board in the driver side floor as dumb as that sounds. its solid as rock and would literally need to be sawsall/torched out. it's sealed airtight and held for 2yrs+ if it ain't broke don't fix it right. also its not prone to rust ;) . pics of cut out metal driver side (notice wood) pass side (worse of the two) let me know what you think on either weld or rivets. i really am thinking a combination of the two. rivets where there is overlap or good metal and weld where there is no overlap and seal the seams on all both in cab and underbody.

so i've got metal cut out to fit holes. What is the best method to do this? Do i POR 15 the floor one coat then put down metal and seal it. or do i weld metal in, seal up all seams, and then POR 15 it? What is a good adhesive sealant to use?

I've seen way worse rust than this. I'll get a frame rail pic up sometime today. I'll be grinding and cutting this afternoon I'll keep pics coming

Ok so picked this baby up before i found this place. 1986 xls 2.5l 4X4. I recently after two moves and six months of just driving it around i started to dig in to it. Pulled the carpet and found, what else but massive rust and a present from the PO. Yes that is a block of wood in place of a driver side floor board. SO basically going to cut out all non surface rust, grind the heck out of everything, replace with sheet metal, and POR 15 the floor. Is this the way to go or are there better routes. I'm not looking for looks more just functionality. If it will drive and my foot won't go through the floor ill be happy. Also my passenger side frame rail is almost rusted through in a 2ft section. any fix ideas?! truck(bad shot) driver side pass side sorry for the massive pictures, sort of a newbie!

I realize there is 1000 threads on this, but thought i'd add one more. I've had a hiss at my feet since i bought this thing. Yesterday replaced check valve, and still the hiss. I can't imagine my booster is bad because brake pedal reacts normally...meaning not soft, not hard to press, just normal. I have a vacuum leak, that's a given, but where is it? the hissing disappears when the either the brake or gas pedal is depressed. The only thing it really affects that i know of is my idle. i'm right at 1200rpm now, but if i push the brake in and stop the hiss i drop down to about 800-900rpm. much appreciated in advance for help

agree with duster, i did the same thing. went to oreileys got the MC for like 30 bucks, threw it on there and bam done.

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/2240307847.html

whoa had something else on my mind. I meant JK its a 2008 Wrangler

i bought an new aftermarket MC from o'reileys for $30 i believe, and have not had a leaking issue to this day.

I've got a buddy you recently bought a 2008 XJ from a local dealership, he wants to get this built up to trail run and what not, but doesn't really have the funds. He calls the dealer and asks if they would sponser a jeep build, and they say they'll bring it up in there next budget meeting and if it works out they are on board. Apparently they've done it twice before over the years. Anyone ever heard of this being done? I'm sure an 86 comanche build is out of the budget/too old to advertise right lol

Fixed! well for now. Put a new lifter in. the old one had a hole in it. I know cam should be replaced but its just one lifter. Cam did look fine though. All is well for now until the cam goes!

I don't have a problem removing the head I'm just wondering if its cost effective to do a valve job or buy a 300 dollar 4.0 and swap. The swap being done by someone else. The swap is out of my league.

what can be done about a stuck valve? this was all caused by a bump i hit. how can i get the valve out or unstuck