Pete M

out of curiosity, do you have a manual transmission?

that close. reeeeeeal close. somehow you're missing the 'g' on the end. it should end in ".jpg".

3.55 or 3.07 are what you're likely to find in a 44. 4.10 will be exceedingly rare since it would have had to be born behind a Metric Ton MJ with a 2.5L engine. they didn't make many of those. :shake: both ratios will suck if you go too big on the tires.

haha. clearly you've never worked on a rusted out Michigan vehicle. :yes: those dang lower trans crossmember bolts reeeealy like to snap off if you look at them wrong. :fs1:

don't forget the T-bolts from a 1978 Ford 9". apparently these are pretty rare. :rant: but seriously, I try to snag any TPS or IAC (or other sensors) for my era/engine Jeep that looks clean (meaning it might be newer).

since it can cost up to 600 smackers just to change the gear ratio in an axle, the ratio is generally the most important factor in choosing your axles. just so we can keep the terminology straight, the number comes from dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear, and the bigger the number the "lower" the gear ratio, the lower the number, the "higher" the ratio. that's what they are called. I didn't make the rules. :yes: anywho, for bigger tires, you need lower gears (higher number) or your truck will no longer have the proper leverage to push the tires around and it'll feel more sluggish. 4.56 was used in some older Jeeps, but the most realistic low ratio you're likely to come across is 4.10. In Jeeps this is typically found behind 2.5L/5spds. In Explorers, you really need to check the tag on the diff or the code in the door to know for sure. 3.73 was very common in Explorers, but don't buy one til you can find a matching Jeep front axle. 3.73 was very rare in the Jeep front axles you'll want to find. If you can't verify the ratio by normal means, you can rotate the brake rotor/drum around and count the times the pinion rotates. if both rotors/drum rotate together in the same direction (meaning it likely has a functional posi), rotate them around once. if they move in opposite directions, brace one stationary and rotate the other twice. if one is already stuck in place, then just rotate the free one twice. my favorite reason for the 8.8 is the availability of 4.10s

rotated the diff to the "close enough" pinion angle and tightened down the U-bolts. still stuck on the one bad T-bolt. :( yes I could just replace it with a regular bolt, but now I'm obsessed with why I can't just go get a new freakin' T-bolt. :fs1: they used to be common in axles. thinking on a trip out to the junkyard tomorrow should napa fail me too. :brows: once I get everything buttoned up, we back out of the garage and putter on down to a shop to get the perches burned in place. :banana: then I'll have REAR WHEEL DRIVE as an option! woo hoo! :banana: :banana:

did you burp the system? where did you mount the new overflow tank?

meh, that's fairly normal for up north. :( My 88 came to me that way. stuff rusts away and if the previous owner never checked them, then they are passed on to the new owner. before you spend a small fortune on brake parts, what rear axle is it? what gear ratio? this might be a prime time to try and upgrade with your money rather than just replacing what was there.

I highlighted the important part for you. 4.10s are common in 8.8s, available in 8.25s, and super duper rare in 44s.

absolutely. and I'm not even positive which aluminum rims are like that. some do, some don't.

anyone know if NAPA carries axle T-bolts? (the bolts that hold non-c-clip axleshafts in)

only if you wanted to run them on a 2wd. some of the aluminum Jeep rims have center caps that won't fit over the 2wd bearing caps. the wheels fit, just not the little center caps. aside from that, the Canyons have the same backspacing and whatnot as any of the other MJ/XJ/ZJ/TJ/YJ/etcJ rims.

one more thing, some websites have blocked access to hotlinking their photos. this might end up here as the "can't determine size" error. we should probably take this over to the "test" forum since that's it's whole purpose. :yes: once you get the hang of it, it's easy. I promise. :D then you can share all sorts of stuff.

in addition to the cover, the 8.8 has a very flat bottom of the housing. if you ever go 8.8, you need one from an Explorer. they have the right bolt pattern and width (which is up to debate since they are a hair narrower than an MJ axle). if you add a pair of quality wheel spacers to an 8.8, it'll visually fix the fact that the MJ bed is wider than the front and so the rear tires tend to look .pulled in". car-part.com may be of help. I've purchased about 30 of the things and have never paid more than 125 per. an 8.25. note that the bottom of the housing has those little "ears" that stick past the cover

that photo is of a Dana 35. :(

I think you need more light in your photos :D

a search for "motion offroad" should bring up info you seek. there are some passionate responses from both sides and I'd kinda prefer not to bring up the bad blood all over again. if you don't need 4.5", don't do it. the higher you go, the more headaches pop up. all you need right now are better shocks (pretty much anything that's gas charged should be fine but the more you spend, the better they are) and longer control arms to get back your caster and recenter your tires in the wheel well. Oh, and I'd do something about the brake lines if you haven't already.

97+ are the better 8.25s and yes, they are almost on par with the MJ 44 (and a lot easier to find).

can you paste the address here so I can see which you're using?

scary stuff. have you figured out why the trailer tried to abandon ship?

:eek: you crossed your safety chains, yes?

gear oil for the 9" under the 88. :dunno: struck out on replacing that stripped T-bolt though. :fs1: prob just use a regular bolt and call it a day.

:eek: the resistor pack can easily start paper on fire.

good catch. guess we probably should have mentioned that too. :doh: