Pete M

I did that to my MJ wheel. turned out awesome. :D lot of work though. I used a kit from JC Whitney. not sure if they are all made equal. don't really have a photo of the wheel itself though. :dunno:

could be a bad u-joint. jack up each corner, spin the tire and see where the noise is coming from. then turn the wheel a bit and rotate again.

78/79 half ton ford Dana 44. yes it is high pinion.

all I can think of is to check the CPS harness that it's not too close to the exhaust.

as long as the current valve cover gasket is in good shape or you buy a new one.

3"x5" :D (sorry, couldn't resist :rotf: )

you may have too many changes to your truck to be able to accurately predict the necessary driveshaft length. It may boil down to a try-it-and-see. the pinion angle of the rear axle alone can make a huge difference in driveshaft length.

fixed. :thumbsup:

yup. looks like PMs are down. :( I'll contact our host and see what's up.

it's on the agenda for early this week. :thumbsup:

but why would you want to? it means better ground clearance. :banana: you might need to take a big hammer to a spot on the floor, but I didn't in my 88 (99 TJ stuff).

hardest thing to find is a clean body. after that, pretty much everything is easy cheesy. :D worst case scenario it needs a new harness from a similar era MJ/XJ. is that enough to scare you off? can you do the work? do you need the truck right now or can it be a work-in-progress for a while? need more details... :cheers:

a lot depends on the particular strap. some stretch way more than others.

so it does... :hmm:

I've had plenty of instances where one of those cheap canopies would have been reeeeally nice. :drool:

have you tried a mechanic's stethoscope or large screwdriver to narrow down the location of the noise?

frames and even to a certain extent rockers and floors are structural items. the bed is not. if repairing the bed looks like a fun project, then go for it. :D just keep in mind that rust can be a losing battle. I gave up on my 88 years ago and now I just patch over the holes with sheetmetal and paint it all to match. as long as it looks ok from 20 ft I'm ok with it. some day I intend to remove the outer skin of the bed and make it look like an M-715 bed. :D

MJs have a pretty long wheelbase. make sure they'll work for ya. :thumbsup:

I assume you've tried tightening it down?

driving without use of the clutch is a great tool to have in your arsenal. :D been there, done that.

do you have a Chiltons or Haynes manual?

but how else are we going to let everyone know that a particular thread is worthless without pics? type it out?! that's just crazy talk. :rotf:

If you think your current tires work great, then you really need a set of mud terrains. There are basically 2 different grades of "mud terrain". Those that are designed mostly to be a more aggressive allterrain (meaning they still work good on pavement), and those that are balls-out mud tires (meaning, well, you know). go with the first ones if they are your only tires, go with the second if you have street tires too.

If muddin' is your thing, either stay away from the bfg AT, or just have a second set of rims/tires for muddin'. The bfg MT would be a good dual use tire.

it may be a bit tedious to tabulate, but if you go to individual member pages, there's a posts per day number. I'm guessing that the number is derived using number of posts and the days since signing up. though we do have a lot of members that lurked for months or years before becoming more active. I don't think it's the panacea you're looking for, but it can be another data point.