HOrnbrod

For equal brake biasing to the wheels for one reason. I replaced a sticking right front caliper only on my MJ, reused the same pads, and the front brakes pulled to the left. Replaced the left caliper with one from the same mfg. as the left (Wagner), and the brakes didn't pull anymore. Still squeels when cold though............. :headpop:

Was just going to answer you but Jim beat me to my own thread! :cheers: As to the MAINT REQ dash indicator light, it's triggered by the ECU when the odo passes a certain mileage, and they can be reset by the dealer for a fee. But I just pulled the indicator bulb in my 91 years ago.

Okay, maybe I worded my reply wrong - definitely did not mean you said not to use the ZJ box, because you didn't. :D By speed proportional and non speed proportional pumps, are you referring to variable or non-variable ratio steering gear?

Agree w. Buffalo Bob. :D This actually did happened to me, but on the left front disk on a 96 XJ I had. And the hoses do not have to be replaced in pairs, but I think also that the calipers, pads, and rotors do.

I was going to ask you if you had a cowl hood on one of your rigs, then I remembered I was thinking about ol' 1bolt over in Culpeper. I get you two VA guys mixed up for some reason. Anyhow, the MJs starting to look good mate. We used to call that color turkey turd tan. :cheers:

Comments on the above statement: "The zj pitman arm is the same one thats sold as a drop arm for lifted xj and mj's. If you aren't lifted then reuse your original one." If your rig is lifted more than 3" it might be okay to use the dropped ZJ pitman arm. I'm at 3" and the extra 1" drop on the ZJ arm did knock my drag link / track bar parallel geometry out. Easy enough to check it out. "The speed proportional steering zj's had a sensor on the p/s steering pump." May be true, but it's no reason NOT to use the ZJ box on an MJ or XJ. I have run one w. both the stock 91 steering pump and an 04 TJ pump. Both worked just fine w. the ZJ box. "I believe the gears were the same." Not sure what you mean by that, but if you are referring to the steering gear turn ratio, you're wrong. 14.1 or higher (MJ) vs. 12.7 (ZJ) verified on a side-by-side bench check. Also check this link out: http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

Agree - use the pitman arm off your original box. Dayem - Eagle beat me again...........

Nope and nope. :D Only used on XJ/MJs. Dealer or junkyard item only, p/n 52000090. It should be okay, but you know what happens to aluminum over time.

All steering boxes from any 1992-1/2 - 1998 ZJ are the same. Also the XJ/MJs only have an aluminum triangular spacer between the box and the frame that sometimes falls apart when removed. Mine didn't, but if this happens, you'll need to get another.

Anyone try Kano Kroil? Never heard of it or tried it. Better than PB Blaster?

Yah, covers all 1991 Jeep production vehicles; SJ, MJ, XJ, & YJ. I have a CD too, but I've found it's incomplete in some areas. :D

Barbie time is about over for y'all Pete. The only time to buy a grill is in the late fall mate if you're not in a hurry. Check the Home Depot and Lowes sales next month and you'll get a good name brand one at a 60-80 percent markdown.

Have you tried a new heater core? Sounds like it's clogged. Disco the core hoses on the right side firewall and try to run water through it.

I'm a pickier SOB than you Rob. :D I much prefer the hard copy FSMs. Running back and forth to a laptop or whatever is a PITA when you're in knee-deep in crocodiles. After a year the hard copy you know exactly where to go instantly. Whenever I do a wiring mod (I got plenty :D) I note it in my manual for future use. I found a complete set for my 91 including supplements on Craigslist for $25 shipped, but it took awhile. Just be patient. But a CD is better than nothing. :brows:

Engine and year?

Got that right Dirty. Investigated moving up there but your gov. immigration bastids want most all of my retirement check for the privilege. Same for Down Under. Financially tough to do it legally. :nuts:

Ah-so. That explains a lot Buffalo Bob. :D Say HEY from moi next time you talk to him. :cheers:

Excellent Bob - thanks! Will check it out matey. :cheers:

1991, HO start year 1990 and below Yes.

Great thread Jake. :rotfl2: Am glad someone else has these "problems". I frequently get calls from both girls at college (luckily the farthest is only two hours away though) for the stupidest things, the most common being "the battery's dead" call, usually caused by one of the airheads leaving something on that shouldn't have been left on. Of course they deny having left anything on, and is always after several of their dweeb friends have tried to jump start their cars. Got sick of it, called an all hands meeting at home one weekend and told both of them to get their butts home. Instructed all parties including their mother on the proper jump starting technique, equipped both airheads with a quality set of battery cables, and send them on their way. It's been six months now, they are still killing the battery occasionally, but they have handled all the dead battery crises by directing the donor dweebs in a proper way.

Hey David - you might enjoy this: F15 vs. C-130 A C-130 was lumbering along when a cocky F-15 flashed by. The jet jockey decided to show off. The fighter jock told the C-130 pilot, 'watch this!' and promptly went into a barrel roll followed by a steep climb. He then finished with a sonic boom as he broke the sound barrier. The F-15 pilot asked the C-130 pilot what he thought of that? The C-130 pilot said, 'That was impressive, but watch this!' The C-130 droned along for about 5 minutes and then the C-130 pilot came back on and said: 'What did you think of that?' Puzzled, the F-15 pilot asked, 'What the heck did you do?' The C-130 pilot chuckled. 'I stood up, stretched my legs, walked to the back, took a leak, then got a cup of coffee and a cinnamon roll.' Moral: When you are young & unwise - speed & flash may seem a good thing. :eek: When you get older & smarter - comfort & convenience is not such a bad thing. :D

Measure at the connector leads across the pump feed and ground pins. Should be close to 12V w. the IGN ON. If not, measure the voltage across the feed pin and a good chassis metal ground. If you read 12V, the ground is bad in the harness. If not, measure across each side of the ballast resistor terminals to chassis ground. Both terminals should read 12V. If not, the ballast resistor is open.

If you mean part #20 in the pic below they are held on by a pushnut (#19) on each corner. If you try to pry them off they'll break. So the B pillar panel has to come off. Image Not Found

Correct. :cheers:

I wouldn't use a union on brake lines. When I did mine, I saved the fittings from the 96 master, already had the combo valve fittings, so I just purchased a 2' length of 3/16" tubing and bent new lines and reused the original flare fittings. You will have to move the windshield washer bottle forward about an inch too for clearance, or install a 97+ washer bottle inside the fender liner like I did.