HOrnbrod

Have you checked fpr fault codes lately? Unplug the ECU connector and check for any recessed pins. Spray with contact cleaner and reseat. :dunno: Seems like all this started after the intake swap, correct?

No problem. If meter lead polarity was reversed the meter would deflect in the opposite direction (to the left) to the needle stop and you would see no reading on the amp scale.

That's correct, but you also have to observe polarity. The black (neg) meter lead goes to the battery neg terminal; the red (pos) meter lead goes to the disconnected mains cable. Current flow is through the meter using the 10A scale.

You should start by determining if any circuit is drawing down the battery. I had an internal short in the radio recently drawing the battery down after 2-3 days of sitting. Use a multimeter on the 10A scale and connect it in series with the disconnected negative mains cable of the battery and the negative battery terminal. Look for any amp reading. EDIT: Damn you Jim - UB FAST!

Unplug the TCU (or remove the inline fuse powering it) and try shifting manually.

When I swapped the D44 in I had the shaft shortened 1" then balanced, blasted & painted, cost me $70 up here in Huntsville. :cheers:

Hey Dirt, real good to hear from you again. :cheers: Still in the helo business?

Did you check the connections at the tank? Clean them up? Also the ground behind the left tail lamp?

Yes, on a pure highway tank full, I get right at 23 MPG w. the stroker. Some were posting over 20 MPG averages which I can not believe.

Missed that one Rob. Anyhow, it was worth reposting. :cheers:

Had not seen this one before. Hell of a race:

Agree 100%. If you were to convert this jewel to 4WD I'd have to seek you out and take you out. If I'm not able to, I'll ask Rob for assistance. :D Only kidding - not a good idea mate. Where is it? I'll buy it to prevent this sacrilege.

No probs with the MT springs, LWB or SWB. There's a BOM number stamped on the right axle tube, probably covered with grease and rust, but it's there and possibly readable if you clean it up. You can ID it using the BOM number on the Dana site IF it's not been molested with. If it's from a 91 MJ auto it's for sure a 3.55 ratio. It may be a Trac-Lok or not, it was optional. The only sure way to verify is open it up. The LS carrier isn't a show stopper; any Dana 44 Trac-Lok carrier will bolt in. I used one from a Honda Passport in mine. :cheers:

Thanks John, and you are exactly correct. :( I think all these 23-25 MPG 4.0L guesstimates are just that - uncorrected speedo/odo readings after gear changes, bigger tires, etc. and those that post these ridiculous MPG claims are living in their own private dream world. My stroker is horrible around town (12-14) but super on the highway (21-23). But it requires 93 octane to get this MPG because of the CR. And everything's correct on my MPG, speedo gear, and GPS verified. The Hesco stroker is coming up on five years now, and I've never had an engine problem. The crate engine was not cheap, but it was a hell of a lot cheaper than they are now. IF I were considering modding another MJ for performance (I'm not, I'm happy :D ), the 5 banger Armstrong would be a damn good option should I ever do it again, and thanks to Peter for the facts. It beats the crap out of trying to cool a SBC block or similar, is mucho easier to install, and has good performance options. I too would love to see someone do this conversion.

In that case, shorter length, less weight, alloy block, parts availability, an excellent alternative. :cheers:

Interesting. Cooling is always one of the biggest considerations in the limited XJ/MJ available engine compartment real estate. The length of the 5-cyl vs. the 4.0 I would ASSUME is greater and would add problems. I've been fighting for years to keep my Hesco 4.6 stroker cool under all conditions as a D/D. It required a thicker alloy radiator, dual electric fans, and a cowl hood. No worries now, but it was tough to get there. I think it might be even more difficult with the longer block to meet these conditions w/o firewall mods - don't want to do that.

86 and up were all the same. 85 and below had a different part number so I doubt it.

Mine did that for about a week then died completely. Turned out to be the ignition coil. It was a fairly new MSD coil too. Replaced it with the old original Mopar coil, it never happened again. Try a resistance check on the coil.

If you really want to know, email Jim Shea on the link I posted above. Retired Saginaw engineer and he always answered my emails. JIML82@aol.com

Yep, the seller is Tony from East Flatbush. That says it all. Fahget about it!

If you're selling the lawn ordainment who cares? I'd keep the D35 4.56 (kind of rare) and throw the 3.07 in it. Since the D44 is an auto it's most likely 3.55 and the 3.07 is closer than a 4.56. Is the lawn ornament 4WD? :D

It is stronger; the ubolts are stronger than the flat straps. Most drag racers use them. Another nice feature is the ubolt nuts are easier to get off to w/o rotating the drive shaft and less prone to rounding off.

:rotf: I just don't understand it. We were all expecting a rough tough defensive game like the first meeting. Figured the first team able to score a couple of TDs winning, but close. LSU came in overwhelmed and over-cautious. They sucked in offense, defense, even their special teams and kickers looked like crap. For the entire game. I blame that of coaching; LSU is a much better team than that. It was too easy..............

YES IT COULD. national Champs again. Tuscaloosa deserves this one. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

They are not just rolling, it's a freaking tsunami destroying LSU pussycat butt. How sweet it is. Could it be the first shutout in BCS history? :cheers: