HOrnbrod

Here's useful little mod I discovered by accident. I swapped out the crappy factory shocks on my JK with OMEs, and since the OME shocks were thicker, a set of Synergy rear sway bar relocation brackets was recommended by OME. They move the sway bar down 1" and back 1-7/16" for added clearance. So I ordered them here: https://www.amazon.com/Synergy-Jeep-Relocation-Bracket-8086-02/dp/B00QXCB2OW https://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_6517.htm Here's a pic of them and how they mount on the JK rear: I found out I really didn't need them because my JK isn't lifted (yet), so I thought they might be useful for doing the same thing to my MJ front sway bar to add more clearance between the end links and the coil springs. They fit perfectly and more than doubled the clearance by moving the sway bar down 1" and forward 1-7/16". It also brought back the original bar end geometry when using the factory links, 10-20 degrees above horizontal. The bracket hole spacing, size, thread, and location is perfect for mounting to the MJ frame and sway bar bushing keepers. Pure PnP. So these brackets are an alternative to installing longer end links with lifts up to at least 3", while also maintaining correct sway bar geometry with the stock links.

Double flare unions, not compression unions which I'm sure is what you meant. Compression fittings in brake lines are a no más for state inspections. :thumbsup:

Way to go Biotex. :cheers: And for the record, I love the old school "turbine" 10-spoke wheels as is. They just need some 31" meats on there now.

He has evidently never heard of a line wrench. USE THE PROPER TOOLS FOR THE JOB!!! A pair of vice grips and a regular open end wrench to remove the brake lines???? :nuts: As long as its his vehicle, I don't see why that's unacceptable to use. You just have to be careful. I could care less what this fool does to his own vehicle. But posting clueless "how-to" videos like this to newbs who don't know any better usually causes more harm than help.

How the ground is applied to the relay(s) through the column depends on the steering wheel type; either the three-spoke or the basic wheel with the large horn pad. Hardware's different.

It looks like the correct relay harness. You are not supposed to pull your original harness. The original harness remains intact and is only used to trigger the relays on the new harness. The original harness right headlamp connector plugs into the new harness, the cabin HI and LO beam switch trigger the appropriate relay, and the the new harness feeds the relay output to your headlamps.

I still think it's exhaust related.

Just a wild guess - Perhaps they haven't sold too many over the years and they are stored outside?

I've never seen anything like that in a factory XJ, and had quite a few. But haven't seen them all of course. Seeing mismatched interior colors like than is an alarm for me to run the VIN.

For the shroud (p/n 53000015), call Mike at the below link. He has a NOS one for $20.50 + shipping. I don't think there are any aftermarket ones that will fit. http://www.lambertauto.net/parts/index.htm

Assume you used a new gasket with the new TB? And what is it? Year, model, etc. That always helps.

Screw out old, remove, screw in new, trim to length.

Both these guys (RIP Stevie) are great. Love the old timers too; Buddy Guy, BB King, Muddy and John Lee, Charley Patton, Blind Willie Johnson, etc. Even some of the the Brits do a pretty good job, like Eric Clapton and Eric Burdon. As long as it's the Blues, I like it.

Good idea. Here's a pic of my 1991 PDC. Unless you have ABS, there should be no relays in the two relay sockets on the right. To the OP, post up a pic of the diagram on the underside of your PDC cover to make sure the 91 and 92 PDCs are the same. They should be, but who knows with Jeeps.........

Gorgeous. :drool: :drool:

Oil Pressure Gauge Test 1. Turn ignition to RUN 2. Disconnect terminal wire from sender. Needle should go HIGH. If not, 3. Touch oil pressure sender wire to ground. Needle should go LOW. If OK, replace sender is bad. If not, repair open connection in wiring to cluster connector.

Check for fault codes: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28107-i-have-a-91-40-can-i-pull-codes-on-this-trtuck/?hl=fault+codes&do=findComment&comment=288535

I don't know, but there's a big squirrel in your truck looking out the back window.

Pointless to control both windows from the drivers side? It only takes one additional switch and three additional wires cross body to control both windows from the drivers side. "wired the doors up by there selves" - that's pointless mate. Nice pro-looking harness Alex. :cheers:

On Ebay HERE

Forum member Akula69 (Jake) punched out new tail lamp grommet sets awhile back for sale. They were of good quality, fit/sealed well, and cheap. Jake, still have any of those?

You didn't mention if you disconnected the vacuum hose from the regulator. At idle the gauge should read 30-31 PSI with the vacuum line attached to the regulator and 38-39 PSI without it attached.

Whenever I disco the battery for something, it takes at least 50 miles of highway driving for to complete the ECU relearning process. During this time, the idle is lower than usual and stalling out at a stop sign is common. But it gradually gets better. Replacing the fuel filter should help, injector cleaner wouldn't hurt, and it's good the codes are cleared. A 12 and 55 are fine. Give it a bit more time, and take her out for a brisk cruise on the highway if you can.

I did some research on the various end links used on the rear 1995 era Ford F350s. There are six different links available for these trucks depending on the wheelbase. The links above you referenced are almost 13" long. :eek: The correct end link according to the MOOG tech assist folks, also for the same vehicle, 1.9" longer than the stock unit, is the MOOG K80035 or equivalent. I just ordered a pair and will post up when I get them if they are right.

1997 was the first production year w/o the water control valve.