HOrnbrod

:popcorn:

This place sells latch kits: http://www.dkhardware.com/replacement-latches-and-older-powr-slider-rebuild-kits_ZC2146M0P1.html

If Eagle and Mike remember seeing this thread, then it existed at one time I'm sure. But NAXJA it seems does not perserve their archives as well as CC does, and the pictorial thread is most likely deleted ancient history. And yes, perhaps only carnuck, who posted this originally and has claimed to have done the timer reset, can straighten this out.

Maybe even an 80-90 poster. :popcorn:

Pat, I'm absolutely positive Jim would be happy for you come down and buy him another MJ.

I believe ya Eagle, just would like to see it. :cheers:

Please describe how you reset a disposable timer. We're all ears. The procedure is in videos on Youtube, and has been posted several times at NAXJA over the years. Sorry, I won't believe that until I see documented proof. Also I don't believe that a 4WD MJ is 1" or whatever taller than a 2WD MJ. Call me Mr. Skeptic.

I looked at those throttle bodies and decided against them. They claim they save the buyer $$ by not mounting the plate; I call BS on that. Even a .005" plate misfit can cause all kinds of idle problems. I have also seen a few complaints on their throttle bodies due to high/erratic idle, but assumed that was because of improper plate installation by the end user. I used a BBK TB and the fit and idle was perfect. I know you don't want to hear this, but I'd junk the J and C TB (if the MAP checks out). Instead of buying a new 62mm-63mm TB, pick up a used HO TB at the yard or on Ebay - they are cheap enough. At least that way you could eliminate the J and C TB as a cause of the problem. BTW, are you using the TB vacuum port for the firewall MAP? Check your 5VDC reference voltage at the MAP also?

I see you used the Jeepers and Creepers throttle body. That's the one that comes as a kit and you have to install the throttle plate by modding the shaft, si? Just looking at it, the plate isn't fitting well; way too much air gap. Also, I'm sure you did but I have to ask: did you use the Renix IAC and TPS on that HO throttle body? How did you adapt them? The Renix and HO have different outputs. Also, since you have a wideband A/F meter, are you are still using the original narrow band O2 sensor output voltages to feed the Renix computer? That engine would be a good candidate for the TB-mounted 96 MAP sensor too.

I think the correct tag should be on the diff; but maybe I'm too anal about things like that. :yes: So I made my own tag using some brass stock I had lying around and stamped on the new gear ratio after regearing and that it had a Trac-lok diff inside. You can just see it in this pic bolted to the cover.

The oil pressure gauge is directly dependent on the variable resistance generated by the oil pressure sensor. Since the low ohm change generated by the sensor dependent on oil pressure is low (less the 300 ohms or so throughout it's range), corrosion at electrical junction points between the sensor and the gauge can cause a false gauge reading. Since you have added a good ground to the cluster, yes, change out the sensor. I've seen variations of 20-40 psi differences between various pressure sensors on the same gauge. Some are more accurate than others. The voltmeter is easy to check; it reads voltage directly from it's positive sensing location. Throughout the years the sensing points of the VM were changed. To check the accuracy of the gauge itself, remove it from the cluster and directly apply voltage to the gauge terminals observing polarity from a voltage source like a 9VDC battery, comparing it's reading to a known standard, like a calibrated multimeter. If both voltage readings agree, the dash VM is good, and the problem is either the dash VM sensing point, or again, corrosion in the wiring between sensing point and the gauge. And as Eagle said above, if you get a ± 20% accuracy tolerance on the factory gauges, UB doing well.

You forgot lawyers.

My apologies to Strokermjcomanche, but I think he means Mr. Jim (jimoshel) in Pueblo. Last count I think he had about 87 or so MJs in various states on the property. And yellaheep isn't far behind. :yes:

Nothing to add Rob, just that I'm glad you're okay. That's always A#1. I see the harness you put in for the halogens - too bad it wasn't at night because if probably would not have happened. The jerk in the F250 would have seen you better.

Purchase a Carfax. I wouldn't buy any vehicle w/o checking it out.

shenanigans? BTW, balderdash.

:doh: :ack: :shake: :nuts:

Where can I find the backing plates? You talking D35 plates? No, D44 plates from Teraflex.

xjrev10, you can get a set of D44 backing plates, including the bearing preload spacers and T-bolts (p/o their conversion kit), for about $80-$90 per side for your MJ D44. Then you can use OEM 1997 and up Ford Explorer calipers, pads, and rotors to finish up from the source of you choice. This is what I did when I switched disks from a D35 to a D44.

Just jumped in on this thread. I'll never understand why when someone ask a specific question, as in this case "Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44", then everyone jumps in and interject non-relevant stuff like the D44 isn't worth it, the 8.25 is better, it's hard to do on a D44, etc. etc. Who cares about someone's opinion that an D44 is inferior (I don't), or it's harder to do (it's not), or an 8.25 is better (it's not). Just answer the OP's question; if you don't know, don't post. The OP wants answers, not opinions. This crap happens all the time here. And thanks to Ben (and johnny) for finally answering the question.

I ordered this cover from Amazon. It was Dana/Spicer p/n 16595.86, and before ordering called some idiot at D/S to confirm if this p/n did have a drain plug; he said yes. I received it, it had no drain, just one bung hole at the filler location and the one 3/8" NPT magnetic plug. I immediately returned it.....................

Hit the Archer Bros again. It's always interesting what the results are when you report on your return. Second thought, maybe Mama wouldn't go for it again? Si?

The stock throttle body opening in the HO manifold is 62mm. So you can bore out the factory "dogleg" straight through the throttle body for a free-flowing intake. Same for the Renix TB except it's a 60mm bore?

Yeah, enjoyed it up there - good folks, eh? I know it's easy, just surprised that no major modern manufacturer, like Dana, Omix, etc. that makes the OEM steel diff covers doesn't make one with a drain plug. They did in the old days, as well as a torque converter drains, AT and pan drains, etc. Cost cutting I guess...........

Plenty plenty of rust buckets in CO - they use salt and magnesium chloride on the roads there in winter too. Maybe just not as much as the rust belt states. I'd look over any vehicle real close if buying one from CO. Jim's just twisting the knife a bit. Can't say I blame him. :rotf: