HOrnbrod

No idea on the aftermarket. I found some NOS 97 seals and although they were tight at first and required a heavy door slam, they settled in after awhile and I only have to shut it firmly now. :yes: Zero wind noise too..

This? http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=17825&SEName=46004

55015782. http://www.quadratec.com/products/55014_8110.htm And others.

Nice of you to point out all that in your original post markie. You sounded like a newb looking for the Instrument Panel Cluster Relay. Obviously you're not, and it sounds like you know exactly what to do. Best of luck to you. :thumbsup:

By jury-rigging your own circuits instead of repairing/replacing the fuse block and wiring you are creating possible ground loops that are going to bite you in the azz later on, if not sooner. Do it right. Pull the fuse block and look at the contact terminals from the back side. If it is clutch fluid leaking on it as Noriyori suggested above most of them will already be destroyed or deep in the process of destruction. Fix the clutch fluid leak, then the fuse block and wiring. You can replace the individual terminals, or if it's too far gone splice in a new block from the junkyard that's in good shape.

WD40 is commonly used as a diesel starting fluid.

Except for you Ben, and me. :rotf:

The flag has officially been raised on this entire thread. :rotfl2:

It looks pretty clean, not all rusted out like the others that come up occasionally. Of course bondo and paint may be concealing things, but it looks like it's been a TN truck all it's life so it should be solid. Can one of you Nashville area guys go eyeball it?

Valvoline VR1 Racing oil has zddp in it.. There are also additives that you can buy as well. Really?

There's always a decent "gear guy" within 50 miles. Unless you live up near the Arctic Circle, and you don't. :yes: Why do you need 4.88 gears? You running 34" and up tires?

From your diagram it looks like you have an early 91-93 HO distributor - it's a poor design. The pulse ring in your diagram is not pressed on; it's a separate part you can get - p/n 33004254. A better solution is to junk the distributor and stick in a 94 and up distributor - it's PnP. Then if your sync sensor (pulse ring) goes out again, you can change it from the top w/o yanking the dizzy out. And no, you are not changing ignition timing with it moving around the shaft, you are changing injector timing - not good. From one of my earlier posts:

I looked at them and likey. Does it have the 3.2 Bo?

Start with your ignition switch. It or it's connector is probably fried...... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/basic-maintenance-ignition-switch-1226376/

Long Beds Rule! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

According to the manual, only 84-85 XJs had 3.73 D30s from the factory; the MJs never did. Good luck finding one. You'll probably have to regear.

1991 / 92 because they ditched the crappy Renix system.

I do hope the OPs springs will settle out for sure. 'Splain this then: Here's a pic of my truck when I got it from the original owner in 03, had 96K miles on it. The wheels are very far forward, and these were the original springs. The below is just after I installed a pair of General Springs MT leafs about six months later. The wheels are centered, and stayed that way. And I have no idea why. It drove fine before and after. :hmm:

My new springs sure as hell didn't look like that. The axle was nearly centered and never moved when the springs settled. The below is Hell Creek's spec sheet for the 3+2 springs; also applies to the 3+1 springs. You can see that the center pin is not supposed to be centered (26" and 31"). Throw a tape on it and take some measurements from the eyes to the pin and see how much the offset is.

Yes, I saw some aftermarket senders that looked like the Mopar units but I don't know if they have the same outputs across the pressure range. :dunno: Maybe, maybe not.

^^ Agree. That's not normal.

Are you jacked up in that pic? And is the big bushing end of the spring on the front frame bracket?

The 1991 MJ/XJ sensors (56026782) were the only ones with the single spade connector. The 92-96 sensors (56026779) have two terminals so they wouldn't work w/o the proper connector on your harness.. The Euro version sender (56026781) has a single stud connector so that would work if you crimp a ring terminal on the output wire.

The 91 sensor p/n is 56026782, not 56026782AC (this is the new p/n and is the bellows type). It has a single spade output terminal and looks like the one in my pic above with a black body.

91and up = 1310 series u-joints.