HOrnbrod

You need to ID which sender you have, and what fuel gauge (Renix or HO) it will be feeding to determine how the gauge will read. It's based on the ohms resistance from the sender potentiometer as the float arm travels it's arc; i.e. high-to-low or low to high ohms output as it travels from full to empty. Most of the MJ fuel senders have a p/n stamped on them somewhere and can be ID-ed from that number.

Is this a statement or a question? :hmm:

I'd wait awhile because the coils will settle a bit. The stance looks good right now IMO. :cheers:

Check for any recessed or bent pins on the 60-pin ECU connector. Also, what did you do about the firewall connector? Use the 92's with the 92 dash harness?

Better yet install a flex joint in the exhaust pipe and the cracking issue will be no more...

Disconnect that black dash ground wire you just hooked to ground in your other post and use your meter to see if you have any voltage on it.

Get 'em both if the prices are reasonable, then flip the one you don't use when you're finished with whatever you are building. Think of it as an investment. These MJ specific axles only get more more desirable (and expensive) as time goes on.

:needpics: Those CJ's are dangerous, can't turn your back on them. Hope you're okay matey! :cheers:

7mm Allen socket required on my 91 2WD................

It's factory. Don't worry about it............

Ok yes with the tcu unplugged it shifted when I changed gear with gearshiftNow what?? The TCU pinouts changed slightly throughout the years. Since you didn't mention what year your rig is, which wiring harness you are using, or what the "running driving shifting truck" is who knows what you have? You need all this information, then you will need to match your harness connector to the TCU pin-by-pin for it to play correctly.

It had everything to do with your truck acting up. You don't rotate the hazard flasher to change it, you pull it straight out. You made a huge short by rotating it by crumbling what little was left of the rotten brass contacts. This could have burned up the wiring instead of just lowering the battery voltage. It's not fixed - you need to replace the fuse block after repairing the clutch cylinder leak.

Jesus............ Look at the diagram. The "round thing" is not a fuse, it's the flasher relay for the signals. All the fuse blocks were the same but they were configured and populated depending on the vehicle's installed electrical equipment and options.

Rear tire carrier?

Mr. Outlaw, are the above pics of the sliders fully installed or still mock-up pics?

The POWER/COMFORT switch applies 12VDC to TCU pin C11 in the POWER position. I don't know how the internals of the TCU work, but it causes the transmission to shift at slightly RPMs than when in the COMFORT position. The shifts also feel "crisper", if that's a proper word. It doesn't affect gas mileage for me. I much prefer the POWER mode for highway driving. This switch was abandoned permanently on the 92 (93?) models and hardwired to the POWER mode. If the dash P/C switch isn't working (open) you can not switch from the default COMFORT mode to the POWER mode. It's simple to hardwire the P/C switch to permanent POWER operation. For HOs, disconnect the 3-pin connector from the dash P/C switch and jumper the BLU and TAN wires together at the switch connector. For Renix do the same to the STRIPED and TAN wires. Jumping these wires corresponds to the P/C switch pins B and C.

Read these. It's in there................ http://comancheclub.com/topic/48463-cruisers-mostly-renix-tips/

Those Cree headlamps would be perfect on a rig with fart cans and a giant rear wing. :rotfl2:

Good for you. Did you even look at the links? There are plenty around if you want to pay the price. If you don't, I can sure understand not wanting to spend $$ on the 2.8. Live with it then mate.

Harness with Truck-lites.

This will give you some p/n's to search for: http://www.2040-parts.com/1982-89-2-8l-carb-base-plate-insulator-14059380-chevy-gmc-pontiac-jeep-i1204513/ http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?text=14059380 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-0472-3103-Carburetor-Mounting-Gasket-/321832080674?hash=item4aeeafd522:g:r20AAOSwu4BVuW4L&vxp=mtr http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=G1308 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-4723103-/301889091676?hash=item4649fdf85c:g:byMAAOSwP~tW2jG7&vxp=mtr

The TCU pinouts changed slightly throughout the years. Since you didn't mention what year your rig is, which wiring harness you are using, or what the "running driving shifting truck" is who knows what you have? You need all this information, then you will need to match your harness connector to the TCU pin-by-pin for it to play correctly.

I was going to use this for my avatar, but it was too annoying even for me. :rotfl2:

That's just a dyno sheet I grabbed off the internet - one out of many in the first link I posted. And no, it's not my stroker; my numbers are higher than that. :yes: