HOrnbrod

Order the correct e-brake cable and use a brick or something for a wheel chock temporarily until you get the new cable installed. :thumbsup:

This is the connector used in the harness between the TCM and the NSS. There are no contacts used on that connector while in (D)rive. So I don't have a clue of what you are referring to.

I have Explorer rear disks on my truck. For comparison purposes, the rotor is 11" in diameter and 1/2" thick (vented).

:banana: :rotf: :shake:

This DRL "switch" is pretty cool, stand alone, and simple to install. It must work by sensing the increased battery charging voltage when the engine is started and keeps the DRL's on until you shut the engine off and the battery settles down to it's lower normal "at rest" voltage state. I can see this might be problematic though if your charging system isn't working as it should and/or if the your battery is dying.

Turn the key on, jump then see what happens w/o doing any continuity checks first. Good advice........

LED city lights. http://comancheclub.com/topic/16853-mj-city-lights/?hl=city+lights

Good to hear - finally! What a major PITA. The place I always use for AW4 parts throughout the years is HERE. Never had a problem - yet......

All the issues you had/have? No. If the solenoid is gone (open), you will never have TC lockup or OD except by manually shifting. If it's intermittent, going bad and opening/closing, it will cause erratic shifting issues all across the board in D. It only takes a minute to check the coils of all three solenoids to verify coil continuity.

All the same x3. But when replacing the stock steering components, for sure use the ZJ V8 tie rod and ends, it's beefier. The ZJ V8 drag link and ends is a bit beefier too and works fine with a little lift, but it's slightly longer overall than the XJ/MJ drag link. I'm using one, but the little extra length doesn't leave much room for centering the steering wheel after everything else is aligned. So either drag link you use, stock or ZJ V8, will be fine.

Looks like it got heat soaked.

You can get the correct 195* Mopar 'stat from the dealer, p/n 83501426.

If you can't find the 4WD cable you can get a universal kit and make your own: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/atp-universal-speedometer-core-repair-kit-83-yc-100/5013267-P

That Iron Man setup makes the stock drag link look really puny and out of place.

Make your own: http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/

That thing should work nicely in your local Walmart parking lot. :yes:

Crown sells a complete set for the XJ, Crown 55003232K. I've used some of their individual front pieces and they worked well, There is no one who sells the MJ rear flare brackets I know of, but the XJ rear brackets are pretty close and could probably be modded to fit if necessary. https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-55003232K-Fender-Flare/dp/B009X1WXAW

Okay - didn't know that. The HO CPS connectors changed three times that I know of and I ASSumed the Renix connectors did also.

According to the parts manual, the correct CPS for your 87 4.0 is the T0739789. The 88 and above 33004761 CPS is most likely the same CPS sensor but the harness connector may be different. The CPS connectors were changed a few times throughout the years.

That's Renix I guess; the HO brake switch is entirely different. The HO brake switch has three sets of contacts; brake lights, TC unlock, and cruise. Anyhow, the OP should check the #3 solenoid coil first to make sure it's not open. Or the TC will never lock up.

I doubt it. While in DRIVE, the TC receives the lock signal from the tranny speed sensor, and unlock signal from the NO set of contacts on the brake switch.

There are three solenoids in the AW4; solenoid #3 is the one for TC lockup. Check the solenoid #3 coil resistance with an ohmmeter at the 7-pin connector on the cable that runs from the TCU to the AW4 behind the engine; it should be a white or light gray connector. The resistance should be 12 - 15 ohms. Connector Pin Layout E F G H C B A Solenoid 1, B to G Solenoid 2, B to F Solenoid 3, B to E

Yep, just the opposite of what seems logical to me.

Can has to be open. Did you see this? It worked great for me.

Actually he is right at a 29" tire (28.9") now.