HOrnbrod

Might just be (and probably is) just a maladjusted shift cable. Crawl under and take a look. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Automatic_Shifter_Adjustments.htm

You going to do the windows too? :yes:

And I doubt if it will be boring. :yes: We definitely needed a major policy change the way things were going.

Based on the quality of the opposition, I voted for for this guy. Will be interesting to see how this goes.......

Ford F150 shackles are a good substitute. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48372-a-little-rear-shackle-info/?hl=ford+f150 Image Not Found

Not trying to be an azz, but before and after pics for comparison purposes would be better. You really can't tell anything by a single photo.

Thanks Gog - never thought of that. Just covered it with split loom - it's now invisible. :cheers:

Damn, even the rubber molding is rusting. :yes:

Welp... I just learned something new. I was going by the handful of transfer cases I've pulled from various years and the XJ's I've owned/worked on... Thanks for the clarification, Don. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Incorrect. Renix and 91 to mid-93 HO MJ/XJ used long shaft speedo gears. The short shaft gears started on the mid-93 and after models.

Normally ~$100 / ea. for the shocks we need unless you find a deal like on Amazon. Made in Australia, so there are no MJ specific rear shocks listed since there were no MJs imported to AU. So you have to improvise. They are the best all-around shocks made IMO. Source, yes. Maybe 20% off lowest vendor posted price. PM if you want.

Yes, I would.

12* is about the mfg's max. I think with new u-joints (the old ones are definitely protesting) and a couple of wedges on the rear axle you could lower the pinion angle enough to get rid of the vibes. You might even get by w/o the t-case drop.

Do you know what the driveshaft operating angle is now Adam?

It's blended in with the local shrubbery......... :rotfl2:

Is that a functional hood scoop?

That'll work. :thumbsup:

Si. Put the harness in anyhow. Hated it? That's kind of strong mate. :yes: I don't like the yellow loom, but the harness itself works just fine.

LED equivalents are coming out daily for most every incandescent/halogen bulb out there. I've tried a few and so far no problems and favorable results. The much lower amp draw is great, but longevity is an unknown in some cases. Don't think I'm ready yet for an H4 LED substitute bulb packaged in a H4 headlight housing with a reflector designed for a halogen bulb, probably never will be, but will be interested in your findings. :cheers:

I guess you use Photobucket, thus no pics. Damn Photobucket is down more than it's up. :fs1:

Just the rear opens.

I later sold those and went with Truck-lites. More light output with a better pattern.

I dropped it off and picked it up the next day; I don't know how it's installed. I just know it doesn't move or leak. :yes: Yes, the gray plastic piece just clips on and is easily removable. It's an accessory piece from CRL.

I used the same screws and washers used for the installation of metal roofs on houses, with an additional neoprene washer under the visor between the visor and cab roof. 3/8" x 3/4"L. Sealed top and bottom and they don't leak and never will. Like these but 3/4" long.

Not entirely sure of what you are asking, but here's a pic with sunroof popped open. Image Not Found