HOrnbrod

Good to know. The owner's name is Tom Laher and he used to be quite active here on our forum. He even has (had?) an MJ. Good guy to deal with.

Unless you know something I don't know., Hells Creek has been out of the leaf spring business for some time now.

It's been done, but the 00 and up exhaust manifold ports are smaller, so you would have to do some porting to match the Renix head for the best flow. Too much work for too little gain IMO.

You can fab an adjustable LSV rod to open it up more like HERE, or pull the arm and slip the LSV splined shaft to allow max throughput like the below. Also, all MJs use the LSV for brake proportioning. The front brake line block is just a distribution block - no brake proportioning. "Today I broke out the FSM and re-read the load sensing valve (LSV) adjustment procedure - again. Referring to the diagram below, rear brake bias is optimal when the LSV shaft flat (shown by the red line; flat is actually on the splined portion of the shaft) points down at the 6.00 o'clock position while looking at the LSV from the front. The factory adjustment procedure used a wonky 85* adjustment fixture to do the procedure; naturally they are now unobtanium. But in reading the procedure I could see exactly what was happening and how it worked. I pulled the LSV lever partially off the LSV so I could see the shaft flat, and it was pointing at 3:00 o'clock! WTF? I then pulled the lever completely off, and rotated the shaft clockwise 360*. You could feel the pull in the shaft as the LSV internal rotary piston passed across the inlet and outlet fluid ports, then after it passed over the ports, it turned freely with no pull. This is how it regulates the rear brake bias depending on the vehicle load, and if the lever isn't in the correct orientation, the ports are blocked, thus there's no opening for the fluid to pass. Which of course causes weak or no rear braking. I then rotated the valve shaft so it faced at about the 8:00 o'clock position, which simulated a fully loaded MJ and maximum rear braking. Then while keeping the shaft from rotating, slid the lever back on the splined shaft, pressed it on, and tightened it all down. Went for a test drive and slammed on the brakes, and the rears locked right up. Yay! Then I fooled with different lever positions on the splined valve shaft, and the best braking ended up to be when the shaft flat was facing right at the 7:00 o'clock position. Now in a panic stop, the fronts lock up just before the rears - perfect. After about four full pedal stops, all four disks were hotter than the hinges of hell. Whereas before, just the front disks got real hot. I'm happy now - no ZJ proportioning valve and re-routing of the brake lines is now required. :) At least for now. Does this make sense to y'all? Unfortunately, the 91-92 LSV's are different than the older ones as there's no flat on the splined arm of the 90 and below LSV's. And the older LSV's use a completely different adjustment procedure and adjustment fixture, even wonkier than the HO's do."

Replace the junkyard calipers. Don't cheap out with brakes. They are referring to the proportioning valve. On an XJ you would replace the existing drum brake proportioning valve with a ZJ disk brake prop valve or similar. On your MJ you can do the same and eliminate the rear load sensing valve, or retain the LSV and use it for proportioning. That's what I did when I converted my D44 to disks and it works fine.

Yes, I agree. If there's a chance that the bypass system might work should a blown front line occur it should be bled. The bypass line is probably clogged up solid though after 25+ years though........

Yes, that's how it's supposed to work. I've yet to hear of anyone in an MJ losing their front brakes then have the bypass line provide rear braking. Have you?

Sounds great John. You need one of these panels now, only with a 0-60 boost gauge.

I also still have the load sensing valve (always will) and have never done anything special, like the procedure in the FSM, to bleed the LSV and it's associated brake lines. Always have had a nice firm brake pedal and good braking. So I wouldn't worry about it as long as you have good braking.

The ignition system of course is involved in both closed and open loop operation. So failures of the sync sensor, CPS, and other ignition stuff will cause problems. Your codes do look fine. Do you have a spare ignition coil? Just for grins, stick it in there and try it. I've had three go bad over the years causing intermittent problems and they tested good with an ohmmeter.

You normally don't get a CEL even with codes. Do check the codes first. https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ FWIW, I think it's ignition. Sync sensor or CPS maybe.........

I'd head to the Zone, rent a set of gauges and pressure test at the rail port just to be sure. ~40 w/o vacuum. 30 w. vacuum. My original pump died instantly at around 120K. It didn't fool around. Also check to make sure it's not throwing a fault code or two.

It's hard to take pics of how I did mine w/o being on a lift, but basically I crossed them after they exited the turnbuckle, then clamped each to the axle tube with a large hose clamp. There's a sleeve on each cable to do this. The clearance is good everywhere even though it doesn't look like it in the first pic (the cable is well above the exhaust pipe). HTH.........

Naw - I scrapped it. The front end kept falling off.........

The L & R rear ebrake cables are the same for both models; the body length difference is made up with the front cable. However maybe the turnbuckle bracket isn't the same distance in front of the rear axle for both models? I don't know since I don't have a SWB to compare - just guessing.......

It has the Volvo B18 4-banger and 4-speed transmission that runs forever. A plentiful parts supply still available too for both if you ever need them. It's the same drivetrain the 60's era Volvo 544s and 122s had. Had several of those back in the day..........

Same here. When I installed the windshield washer tank inside the fender, it came with the low level indicator, so naturally I had to wire it up. Of course, it's kind of necessary when you can't see the tank.

What are you using for ebrake cables? Longer than stock? I found the stock cables were the perfect length.

That's another thing that would bug the crap out of me. If I have power mirrors installed (and I do), they have to be functional. And this applies to everything else. If it's installed it should work. Maybe I have a problem?

Most definitely. If they were were authentic hard-chromed factory mirrors, not some C.R.A.P. plasti-chrome covers, I'd probably install them. I'm all for improved rear vision. Especially with a camper shell setting on my bed.

Installing the roundish late XJ mirrors on an MJ is akin to this:

The cat is telling you "Don't even be thinking about moving me out in the rain Jack"...

Try looking for p/n 55134854. These are the door seals for the longer 2-DR models; you can cut them to fit the 4-DR's.

That looks just like a stock 60mm HO throttle body gasket pic you posted. Same dimensions.....

The MJ 44's don't have a pinion crush sleeve; they use shims. And if it's howling and growling, it probably needs rebuilding. The stamped number on the axle is the BOM (Bill of Materials) number, not BOL. If you can find the BOM number or the factory p/n (also stamped) you can use the below site to tell you how it was equipped originally. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/identify_a_dana_axle.shtml