ratrapp

usually if theyre going bad youll see gas coming out of the nipple that the vacuum hose attatchs to.it can also be bad and fuel not coming out of the nipple as well.you would have to remove the regulator and fab up a block off plug to eliminate the regulator and start narrowing down if you have either a stuck injector or a leaking pump.if any plugs are fuel soaked then that may be signs of a stuck injector.

to use the noid light all you have to do is unplug 1 injector and plug the correct noid light into the harness and have someone crank it.it should pulse to let you know the ecm is commanding the injectors to pulse.did you pull all plugs to verify theyre not gas soaked?also you should be able to hold fuel pressure for a while.thats saying if it drops immediatley then you can either have a stuck open injector,bad regulator or there is a leak inside your fuel pump assembly from where the hose connectors to the hanger or ive even seen the pump itself leak where the pump body is assembled.

did you verify injector pulse and you said you have spark,but did you just spark at the wires or did you pull the plugs to see if maybe theyre gas fouled?

there will be one in the kit to check injector pulse.it might not be labeled ev1 but there is one in there.

yes,even the renix 4.0 uses ev1 style injectors that are pretty common.

a noid light will determine if the injectors are getting signal to operate,not the actual function of the injectors.remember an engine needs spark,fuel and compression to run.i doubt it suddenly lost compression but i have seen stranger things but its highly unlikely.trust me if i were closer i would swing by.

i think you really need to take a step back.first where ive read youve never actually checked fuel pressure,just pushed the schraeder valve in and seen some fuel.harbor freight sells cheap enough fuel pressure gauge kits.then if you have proper fuel pressure and flow,check for spark.i persoally wouldnt have worried about modifing the cps sensor until i had it running again.i know you did put a new pump in it but i own a garage and you won't believe the amount of bad new parts i get a week(good american quality lol)you can also buy cheap spark testers from harbor freight.also you havent checked for injector pulse either with a noid light which also can be picked up at harbor frieght pretty cheap.most of these harbor freight tools are decent enough for the diy'er.

i used an uphill mfg rear bumper on mine and it fit great.

i second the suggestion of bypassing the connector.i have personally done it several times on different renix 4.0s over the years.

the problem is finding or repairing the seat braces.going through this myself now.i was able to salvage the passenger side but i don't have anything left of my driver side brace.

does anybody know if the frame cap piece that the seats bolt are being reproduced or if anybody has a used one for sale?i managed to save the passenger side but there is literally nothing left of the drivers side to repair.i have replaced the floor pans and i need to just mount the drivers seat to start being semi roadworthy.moderators please move if its in the wrong section.

I'm still waiting on the floor braces for the seat tracks.i heard rumors they were going to reproduce those at one time.

no kidding.i need the seat braces.i would gladly buy both sides if they made them.i don't even have a driver side to even build one off of it.

exactly.you need to remove both axles to pull the carrier out to install the seal.its not super hard,just time consuming.

va is the same way.i bought a f150 about 8 years ago and the seller{an older woman}put her name on a line that it didnt belong.the lady at the dmv went nuclear and i had to drive 50 miles back to where i bought the truck and have the woman fill out an affidavit to make it right.i won't put all dmv's in this catergory because i have been a few really helpful dmv's in my state but my local dmv is one of the worst.

i did the axle swap in my old 88 mj.the only real hard part was you have to remove the carrier to install a seal in the housing.i got tired of in the winter somehow i would get moisture in my vacuum lines and it would freeze up when i needed 4 wheel the most.

its a real pain in the state of va.i know every state has different guidelines.

i done this on my 88 when i had it.if your old injectors are in good working shape you really won't see much improvement.there really isnt anything to reset anything on the renix system if you do change the injectors.it won't hurt anything if you do upgrade the injectors.

a fusible link is a wire

was it a burnt fusible link?

i used the performance products on my old 88 mj and it worked fine.i try to stay away from dorman on the balancers.have had way to many of them fail after 6 months of us.

i used it on my gfs 95 4.0 zj.it helped alittle when it was extremely hot outside.the factory started using these on later 4.0s because exhaust manifold heat could cause the center injectors to vapor lock especially during very hot days.

damn didnt know they started making that now.i can save my gfs 95 zj front axle now.

it takes an allen wrench in the hole.also make sure the bleeder end is facing up when installed.

the cherokee rear pans will work but they require alittle cutting and bending.i just did this on my 86,take your time cutting the old floor pan out.it takes a little patience plus a good spot weld cutter or drill bit and a air chisel is nice as well.