ratrapp

you may still have other issues even when you fix this but it needs to be addressed before anymore repairs or attempted starts are made.after you put the regulator on and see that it holds pressure you may want to hold the throttle open some to see if it starts.it may be partially flooded from the leaking regulator.and no,holding the throttle open an an efi vehicle won't flood it.the throttle body is nothing but an air flapper.

my bad,i thought i read you didnt have fuel leaking out of it.damn i shouldnt read without glass's on lol.and no there shouldnt be any fuel in the line ,period.this causes fuel to go straight in the intake every time the key is cycled on.thats probably why the fuel pressure drops so suddenly.

just get a cheap set of copper plugs to get it running.it doesnt need or will benefit from platinum or iridium plugs the stores will try to sell you.try new plugs before you spray carb cleaner in the holes.this is just a test eliminate that you don't have fuel on the plugs to combust.

have you checked under the distrbutor cap to make sure that the rotor button hasnt come off the shaft.ive seen that before as well.

i do stress a very small amount of carb cleaner.I'm talking like the amount that comes out of those battery powered air fresheners.too much will either flood or hydrolock the engine.

thats a good sign.if all the plugs look good and your sure your getting spark then spray a small and i do mean small amount of carb cleaner in each spark plug hole,reinstall the plugs and see if it starts or try to start.

usually if theyre going bad youll see gas coming out of the nipple that the vacuum hose attatchs to.it can also be bad and fuel not coming out of the nipple as well.you would have to remove the regulator and fab up a block off plug to eliminate the regulator and start narrowing down if you have either a stuck injector or a leaking pump.if any plugs are fuel soaked then that may be signs of a stuck injector.

to use the noid light all you have to do is unplug 1 injector and plug the correct noid light into the harness and have someone crank it.it should pulse to let you know the ecm is commanding the injectors to pulse.did you pull all plugs to verify theyre not gas soaked?also you should be able to hold fuel pressure for a while.thats saying if it drops immediatley then you can either have a stuck open injector,bad regulator or there is a leak inside your fuel pump assembly from where the hose connectors to the hanger or ive even seen the pump itself leak where the pump body is assembled.

did you verify injector pulse and you said you have spark,but did you just spark at the wires or did you pull the plugs to see if maybe theyre gas fouled?

there will be one in the kit to check injector pulse.it might not be labeled ev1 but there is one in there.

yes,even the renix 4.0 uses ev1 style injectors that are pretty common.

a noid light will determine if the injectors are getting signal to operate,not the actual function of the injectors.remember an engine needs spark,fuel and compression to run.i doubt it suddenly lost compression but i have seen stranger things but its highly unlikely.trust me if i were closer i would swing by.

i think you really need to take a step back.first where ive read youve never actually checked fuel pressure,just pushed the schraeder valve in and seen some fuel.harbor freight sells cheap enough fuel pressure gauge kits.then if you have proper fuel pressure and flow,check for spark.i persoally wouldnt have worried about modifing the cps sensor until i had it running again.i know you did put a new pump in it but i own a garage and you won't believe the amount of bad new parts i get a week(good american quality lol)you can also buy cheap spark testers from harbor freight.also you havent checked for injector pulse either with a noid light which also can be picked up at harbor frieght pretty cheap.most of these harbor freight tools are decent enough for the diy'er.

i used an uphill mfg rear bumper on mine and it fit great.

i second the suggestion of bypassing the connector.i have personally done it several times on different renix 4.0s over the years.

the problem is finding or repairing the seat braces.going through this myself now.i was able to salvage the passenger side but i don't have anything left of my driver side brace.

does anybody know if the frame cap piece that the seats bolt are being reproduced or if anybody has a used one for sale?i managed to save the passenger side but there is literally nothing left of the drivers side to repair.i have replaced the floor pans and i need to just mount the drivers seat to start being semi roadworthy.moderators please move if its in the wrong section.

I'm still waiting on the floor braces for the seat tracks.i heard rumors they were going to reproduce those at one time.

no kidding.i need the seat braces.i would gladly buy both sides if they made them.i don't even have a driver side to even build one off of it.

exactly.you need to remove both axles to pull the carrier out to install the seal.its not super hard,just time consuming.

va is the same way.i bought a f150 about 8 years ago and the seller{an older woman}put her name on a line that it didnt belong.the lady at the dmv went nuclear and i had to drive 50 miles back to where i bought the truck and have the woman fill out an affidavit to make it right.i won't put all dmv's in this catergory because i have been a few really helpful dmv's in my state but my local dmv is one of the worst.

i did the axle swap in my old 88 mj.the only real hard part was you have to remove the carrier to install a seal in the housing.i got tired of in the winter somehow i would get moisture in my vacuum lines and it would freeze up when i needed 4 wheel the most.

its a real pain in the state of va.i know every state has different guidelines.

i done this on my 88 when i had it.if your old injectors are in good working shape you really won't see much improvement.there really isnt anything to reset anything on the renix system if you do change the injectors.it won't hurt anything if you do upgrade the injectors.

a fusible link is a wire