ratrapp

i've installed 2 of these kits for a friend of mine.he had a 00 cherokee and his son had a 95 cherokee.they are cheap and the brackets for the track bar and the drop brackets for the t-case are crap at best.i wouldn't personally use one.you get what you pay for.

the only additive i like is seafoam.it's good for cleaning carbon out of combustion chambers and pistons tops.i also like there transtune as i've fixed a few trannys with this stuff.lucas isn't worth it,loke others sais just a heavier oil and never lut that stuff in an a/t.would you trust something that said to put it an an a/t or a manual tranny?

my g/ f has a 95 4.0 zj with 190k miles and it runs better than my mj when it was new and definitly rides better.down sides are it will probably need an evaporator core unless it's been replaced,rear axle noise(gears and or bearings)and they do like electrical gremlins.hers does get 20mpg on the highway which is about 5-6 more than my mj.they do share the common 4.0 problems of waterpumps,exhaust manifolds and crank sensors but hers has the original w/p and the manifold is atleast 6 years old and not cracked yet.i would really get a 4.0 instead of a 5.2 because the 4.0s are better imop and easier to work on.i was a jeep/chrysler tech for 5-6 years so i've seen one or two zjs.

my trw track bar only lasted a few years.i replaced it with a spicer and it's been good for the last 5 years.we quit using trw in our shop and switched to spicer or sometimes moog and have had alot longer lasting parts.

i think asking those questions then your in over your head.it would be easier to get the clutch working than attempt an a/t swap.

really you shouldn't adjust it but sometimes people fool with it and cause thereself problems.

on the side of the tb there is a little screw that stops the throttle from completely closing .i think it's either got a torx or allen head in the screw to adjust it.it's very small but it's on the side where the throttle cable is at.

if it happened after you cleaned the iac then check the throttle stop on the side of the tb.when i was a tech at a jeep/dodge dealership i had a 4.0 jeep that wouldn't idle very well.i cleaned the iac then it idles high as hell.i checked and someone had adjusted the idle stop to compensate for a dirty iac.the girl later told me that her b/f had adjusted the idle up but it didn't help any.

thats why i just went to my favorite exhaust shop even though it's 60 miles away.i bought a catco converter for $90 and installed it myself and got a flowmaster for $65 and they charged $90 for a 2 1/2 inch pipe from the converter to muffler and 2 1/2 tailpipe.i always fix everything myself but for the price and quality it was worth it.

they make offset upper balljoints to correct a camber problem.depending how bad the camber is though it may or may not be enough.

i'm pretty sure the downpipe is at a diferent angle for a renix.it would be easier to get a ho downpipe.

i've got a catco hi-flow converter,2 1/2 aluminized pipe with a 40 series flowmaster with a 2 1/2 tailpipe.i've got about $240 in the whole thing and sounds alot better than the dynomax superturbo that i had on it.

i had blowby and changed to the steel baffled cover and all my blowby problems disappeared.i gave less than $20 for the cover and used a new model perma seal fel-pro gasket.no more blowby and leaky vc.it's a well worth small project.

my egr valve has been unplugged for 9 years.most new vehicles don't even have them.like said earlier egr has nothing to do with oil blow by.

i don't have anyway of shooting pics.the bolt pattern is different.my grandmother has a 94 s-10 and there was a post about cutting the opening larger to make a newer s-10 handle work so i'm going to check out her tailgate handle monday.

the bolt pattern is different.ours looks like a triangle pattern where the s-10 has one bolt completely offset.when i seen this i didn't even take it out of the pack in case they wouldn't accept it as a return.maybe the newer s-10s would work but the 82-93 doesn't,not at least without drilling out the tailgate and other possible modifications.

i just got a new dorman tailgate handle for a 82-93 s-10 and it does not work.anyother suggestions?

my 88 4.0 aw4 has 3.55s as well.

i just got through making many improvements on the mj while on vacation.i added a new hesco w/p,high flow housing and t-stat,professional products balancer,alternator,belt,idler pulley,oil filter adapter o-rings,2 1/2 aluminized exhaust with 2-chamber flowmaster and slightly larger grand cherokee front sway bar.now my damn tailgate handle broke.does anyone know if a new handle is still available?

i second the intake bolts.even after loctite mine would work loose and cause a vacuum leak and a very high idle.if replacing injectors fixed a high idle it was because the lower o-rings were bad causing a vacuum leak,not the injectors themselves.i would use some water in a squirt bottle or some carb cleaner to look for vacuum leaks.

i've had several redtops.some last forever and others seemed that if they got run down they would not hold a charge.i used to friends with the local advance auto manager and he would let me have them for about $95 but he moved and now they want a ridiculous price for them and imo they're not worth it.

try justgastanks.com.i got one made from plastic for a customers 78 j20.no one else made anything even out of metal except them.

mines starting to do the same thing.professional products has a nice replacement one from summit for $72 but it's been on backorder for almost 2 months.napa can get pp parts but i haven't tried them yet.

i'm on my 3rd pump and 2nd tank.

my factory fuel pump was pretty quiet.the first time it went out i replaced it with a mopar pump and it was quiet.that pump lasted about 6 years and when it died i put a carter pump in it from the local federated store and it's louder than my 255 lph pump in my mustang.as long as it works i can live with it.