ratrapp

on my 88 mj the alt. gauge drops alot when you turn the signals on or the heater motor.the gauge actually moves up and down with the signals as they blink. i checked the battery voltage at the battery it self and it's rock solid at 14.5 with everything turned on and dosen't flicker any.i replaced the ground cable off of the battery to the block,no change.i replaced the alt with an ac delco unit and no change.i even bypassed(straight wired)my c101 connector and it hepled alittle but not alot.my old cluster did this alittle before i replaced it with a tach style cluster but not as bad as this one.all of the other gauges work fine(as good as factory gauges work).the truck charges fine but i would like to fix this so if my alt does start going i will know for sure and not be guessing.with no load on the system the gauge reads alittle over 14 volts like it should.it's when you turn the blower or signal lights on is when it acts up.you can turn the headlights on and it doesn't flicker(only turn signals or blower motor).

you may have either a bad master cylinder or may need new front rotors.i've fixed many vehicles where the front rotors were either too thin or so glazed over the pads never bite into the rotors and result in a sinking pedal or decreased stopping.

did this happen before or after you worked on the brakes?most boosters when they go bad produce a very stiff pedal.

there was supposedly some guy on here many months ago that was going to make and sell seat adapter tracks to put xj and zj seats in an mj but it never happened.maybe his fabrication skills weren't up to the task.

there are 2 tcu fuses for your jeep.the first is in the fuse box and the second is under the passenger side dash in the harness next to the tcu.it's easy to get to and sometimes you may have to replace the inline fuse holder as they corrode and burn sometimes.it these all check out then you may either have a bad tcu or tps.these trannys(aw4)are pretty long lasting and usually don't give much problems if they arent run with oversize tires and have the fluid occasoinally changed.

if i didn't already have a jcr rear bumper then i'd be all over this one.at least they give you an option if you want a reciever hitch as i really didn't want one on my jcr.i never intend to pull anything with my mj except stuck vehicles out of mudholes and ditches.you really can't beat the price on this bumper as well.

i just installed a set of precisions last week and they work fine.i noticed a slightly better idle but fuel economy is the same but they are a great price for them.

i've done several heater cores in those year taurus's and they are alot easier than mj/xjs.you don't have to pull the heater box out and the dash doesn't have to be completely removed to pull a taurus heater core unlike the mj/xj.they're still a pain,just not as much as jeeps.

i actually used the xj valve as well and done away with the rear load valve.i unbolted the whole unit together and only had to make a short piece of line up.you will definitly feel a difference in braking.it's a well worth it upgrade.

found problem,bad wiper module

does anybody have availability to the wiper wiring diagram?i have alldata at work but it doesn't include the wiper diagram because it's an older vehicle.my wipers and washer both quit at the same time.i know it;s not the wiper motor and i replaced the 5.5 amp circuit breaker and no luck.i want o make sure it's the switch or the wiper module under the dash before i get parts and unneccasarily take the steering column apart.

that's what i wanted to know.i'm going to order the larger one.i don't know why the truck had the smaller alt being to it had a/c but who knows.the truck has been in the family since it had 8k miles and was less than a year old so i doubt someone put the wrong alt. on it.thanks,guys

i've done it without completely removing the dash out of the truck,but you still have to remove every bolt and screw anyway to loosen the dash up so you might as well take the dash out.

i done a search but got conflicting info.my alt is on the way out and wanted to upgrade to the bigger factory 100 amp.if you have done this let me know if it worked.it's a 4.0 renix style.the truck has factory a/c but has the smaller alt. on it.i don't want to upgrade to the larger later model chrysler alternators,just use the larger factory style.

does anyone know if a 95 wrangler front axle will bolt directly into a mj?found a smoking deal on one for $50 with 4.11 gears.

is it an a/t?if so the shift interlock may be binding not allowing the key to come all the back.mine does this occasionally.

i had my rear sliding window done several years ago and it was $50.it's still holding up much better than if i had done it.no bubbles or streaks,you get what you pay for.

i put a set on my mj and my gf's zj.i think for what i paid for them they're worth it.

do a search for crown stering parts.that's where i got mine last year.i think it was $100 or so.

anymore progress on the seat track adapters?

problem solved.the tps was the original culprit.i replaced the 3 solenoids first and one of the new ones was defective.i put the old ones back in and all is fine.

you have either a broken motor mount or collapsed transmission mount.you possibly can have both as i did.it's not that uncommon on these trucks.

i replaced the tps and it registers correct voltage and idles good again but still no shift.i'm wondering if my new shift solenoids are any good or the used tcu i tried was any good.before it wouldn't come out of first unless i unplugged the tcu(which i think was from the bad tps.i unplugged the tcu so i could manually shift it.i replaced the solenoids and i plugged up the tcu and it wouldn't move unless i put it in 1-2 gear.it never did this until i relaced the solenoids.i wish i had checked tps voltage first but i didn't.i'm going to stick the old solenoids back in wednesday and try again.

i got my scanner from the shop and it only shows .37 volts at the tps and it only moves to .39.i think the less than 1 year old tps from mopar is going bad.they sais something about not warrantying it when i bought it because of it being considered a vintage part.i wish i could adapt a new ho tps to the renix wiring because i've already got a ho throttle body.

looking for an 88 tcu for an aw4.would also be interested in a wiring harness for the tcu as well if available.91 up cherokee stuff isn't the same.the closer the better to va.thanks