ratrapp

thats all i get is about 15mpg.the truck sticker only showed like 18mpg when brand new so losing 3 mpg after 200k miles isn't too bad.i also think the only way you'll get better mileage is to get another vehicle.some people claim high fuel #s for 4.0s and such but i attribute this to poor math,inaccurate speedos and such.maybe a 4.0/5spd 2wd and easy driving may net 20mpg or so but thats another story.i base my 15mpg on a combo of city and highway(not highway only)and routinely gets this every week.i also have a 4.0 aw4 with 3.55s and 235/75/15 tires and a correct speedometer as i changed the gear to get it right.

that is your knock sensor.they commonly break off.

has anyone ever adapted zj seats to a mj ? i have factory buckets but they'er pretty worn.my local salvage yards have no good cherokee seats(pre 96 or even 97-01).they are already gone by the time they hit the yard or are broke or even in worse shape than mine.they do have plenty of nice shape zj seats.my gf has a 95 zj and the seats are pretty comfortable.if you did adapt the seats how did you do it and how high do they sit.i'm 6"2 and do need a little room.thanks

i used a professional products one and it fit fine.sometimes you just need a harmonic balancer installer tool instead of a bfh.also theres not much room to tap the balancer on in front of the jeep.i've also used dorman balancers at my shop on many different vehicles and haven't had a problem with the fitment.

see if you can manually shift it.if so you may either have a bad tps or a bad shift solenoid.

i used the recommended napa seal and i just lightly scuffed the outside of the seal and used some right stuff sealant on it and no leaks so far.i removed all of the vacuum hoses and crap associated with it.i do think i lost a gallon or so mpg but i don't drive but about 6-7k miles a year to work so mpg wasn't my deciding factor but a consistent 4 wheel drive when it snows.

looks like thats my new weekend project,many thanks hornbrod

hornbrod,this sounds like what i need.could you go into greater detail about what you did to fix this?thanks

on my 88 mj the alt. gauge drops alot when you turn the signals on or the heater motor.the gauge actually moves up and down with the signals as they blink. i checked the battery voltage at the battery it self and it's rock solid at 14.5 with everything turned on and dosen't flicker any.i replaced the ground cable off of the battery to the block,no change.i replaced the alt with an ac delco unit and no change.i even bypassed(straight wired)my c101 connector and it hepled alittle but not alot.my old cluster did this alittle before i replaced it with a tach style cluster but not as bad as this one.all of the other gauges work fine(as good as factory gauges work).the truck charges fine but i would like to fix this so if my alt does start going i will know for sure and not be guessing.with no load on the system the gauge reads alittle over 14 volts like it should.it's when you turn the blower or signal lights on is when it acts up.you can turn the headlights on and it doesn't flicker(only turn signals or blower motor).

you may have either a bad master cylinder or may need new front rotors.i've fixed many vehicles where the front rotors were either too thin or so glazed over the pads never bite into the rotors and result in a sinking pedal or decreased stopping.

did this happen before or after you worked on the brakes?most boosters when they go bad produce a very stiff pedal.

there was supposedly some guy on here many months ago that was going to make and sell seat adapter tracks to put xj and zj seats in an mj but it never happened.maybe his fabrication skills weren't up to the task.

there are 2 tcu fuses for your jeep.the first is in the fuse box and the second is under the passenger side dash in the harness next to the tcu.it's easy to get to and sometimes you may have to replace the inline fuse holder as they corrode and burn sometimes.it these all check out then you may either have a bad tcu or tps.these trannys(aw4)are pretty long lasting and usually don't give much problems if they arent run with oversize tires and have the fluid occasoinally changed.

if i didn't already have a jcr rear bumper then i'd be all over this one.at least they give you an option if you want a reciever hitch as i really didn't want one on my jcr.i never intend to pull anything with my mj except stuck vehicles out of mudholes and ditches.you really can't beat the price on this bumper as well.

i just installed a set of precisions last week and they work fine.i noticed a slightly better idle but fuel economy is the same but they are a great price for them.

i've done several heater cores in those year taurus's and they are alot easier than mj/xjs.you don't have to pull the heater box out and the dash doesn't have to be completely removed to pull a taurus heater core unlike the mj/xj.they're still a pain,just not as much as jeeps.

i actually used the xj valve as well and done away with the rear load valve.i unbolted the whole unit together and only had to make a short piece of line up.you will definitly feel a difference in braking.it's a well worth it upgrade.

found problem,bad wiper module

does anybody have availability to the wiper wiring diagram?i have alldata at work but it doesn't include the wiper diagram because it's an older vehicle.my wipers and washer both quit at the same time.i know it;s not the wiper motor and i replaced the 5.5 amp circuit breaker and no luck.i want o make sure it's the switch or the wiper module under the dash before i get parts and unneccasarily take the steering column apart.

that's what i wanted to know.i'm going to order the larger one.i don't know why the truck had the smaller alt being to it had a/c but who knows.the truck has been in the family since it had 8k miles and was less than a year old so i doubt someone put the wrong alt. on it.thanks,guys

i've done it without completely removing the dash out of the truck,but you still have to remove every bolt and screw anyway to loosen the dash up so you might as well take the dash out.

i done a search but got conflicting info.my alt is on the way out and wanted to upgrade to the bigger factory 100 amp.if you have done this let me know if it worked.it's a 4.0 renix style.the truck has factory a/c but has the smaller alt. on it.i don't want to upgrade to the larger later model chrysler alternators,just use the larger factory style.

does anyone know if a 95 wrangler front axle will bolt directly into a mj?found a smoking deal on one for $50 with 4.11 gears.

is it an a/t?if so the shift interlock may be binding not allowing the key to come all the back.mine does this occasionally.

i had my rear sliding window done several years ago and it was $50.it's still holding up much better than if i had done it.no bubbles or streaks,you get what you pay for.