yellaheep

Um....... LOL.

We had those same short handled hammers in our patrol cars until they got used a couple times and well...... didn't work. The long handled ones work great. I think it's all in the swing and the impact. That short handled version allows alot of the impact to be absorbed into the user's hand and wrist. I used one once at an accident. Still doesn't work as well as my metal extending baton. Window tint film definitely keeps them from working well. The smaller the window, the easier it is to break with those and the windows firmly glued in place break easier than the ones in doors on window tracks as that allows for impact absorbing as well. The rear side windows of SUV's and rear cab windows of trucks break the easiest. I saw a cool video of a firefighter using a car's antenna to break glass pretty easily too.

Not one of those ads with photos...... what's the matter with people? lol

You're still looking for these huh? I'll try to keep them in mind when I'm stomping around the junk yards. I see them from time to time. None recently though.

They're around $175 for just the bed, $75 for the tail gate, and $40 each on tail lights at our local u-pull yards. If I had a nice one already removed and ready, I'd generally ask $250 for the bed, $100 tail gate, and $50 per tail light. It's all about location though. If you find one local to you, you'll need to base what you pay on what it'd cost you to get elsewhere. $500 for a nice bed local might be a bargain......

Tiny house trend huh? Congrats Ben! Very cozy looking place! I foresee a shop that far exceeds the square footage of the house in your future...... :D

No pics of the build, no mention of parts, supplies used...... Fail. :D

And yet I can't sell my rust free good running '88 4.0/5 speed/4x4 for $2600..........

You made it onto the RoadKill guys web page about the race (scroll down a bit)...... http://www.roadkill.com/lemons-winter-rally-retreat-moscow/ That helicopter is called "Speedycopter"..... https://speedycop.com/

Wow. Never had to use a puller on those........ just a firm whack on the stud with a rubber or plastic hammer and they've popped loose easy. Nice job fabbing up the tool though! :thumbsup:

What's posted here is as good as it gets. Seems to me, you might be able to use a urethane upper shock mount bushing and washer from an off-road style XJ/MJ front shock. I wouldn't use a black rubber bushing, probably too soft and those tend to crush over time.

Nope, that's not a jeep jack part at all. It's the tube that you'll see through the hole just below the tailgate. That tube goes back to the spare winch bracket assembly to that short shaft in the pic - the one with the hole drilled through it. The tube goes over that shaft and held in place by a cotter pin. The end you see below the tail gate has a bit of a pinch to the end where the flat blade end of the lug wrench goes - using the lug wrench to turn the tube and therefore lowering or raising the spare tire winch. Best pic I could find on the interwebz.....

Whew. Unloaded it at the annual Tri-State Auto Swap Meet. Made a tidy profit. It's now a Grandfather/Grandson project. :thumbsup:

I have one. Missing the crank tube but easy to make From galvanized conduit. Lemme know. Have pics of it. $45 shipped

I have a few as well. PM if you want me to send you one.

There's also the Jimmy Jammer Gate Keeper: http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/4/578/729/38942864043_original.jpg

Wow that turned out nice! Did you spray the tailgate with anything? Looks almost like it's got a satin clear on it? Mine:

Pretty expensive to go with the fiberglass bed sides. Perhaps cut out the rust, treat the edges and paint, then use TJ rear flares on the front and rear? This one has it done to the rear, just not real hip on the front flares with the marker light. Using TJ rears on all 4 corners of the MJ looks pretty good.

Beat me to it. I was thinking ignition security switch as well. The other switch could be to operate a lock pin for the fuel door....One way to lock, the other way to unlock.

In 2006 I had a completely torn ACL replaced with bits of my hamstring tendon, and a torn meniscus sutured up in my right knee. I was off work for 4 months, 2 months of light duty. Before the injury I had pain and issues and was told the lining between friction points was getting pretty thin. To this day, it still hurts. I've re-injured it twice where scar tissue tore loose and another where the end of the meniscus tear has come apart. Exercise is nearly impossible because the impact of hiking or jogging causes so much pain and the constant popping leaves you with little confidence it'll stay together. Last month I saw my surgeon about the popping and pain using stairs. He shot me up with cortisone and while the pain has been reduced, it still doesn't feel real solid. I wish they would have just replaced the knee back then. I know a few people of varying ages that have had one or both done and they had drastically less down time and have little to no pain now. Full mobility. I'm actually looking forward to the day I can get this right knee replaced. Get it done, I can't imagine you'd regret it.

I told myself never again after the '48 Ford. '41 Chevy Special Deluxe Sedan. No engine or trans. Looked fairly complete from the pics. Dude had it at "best offer, needs to go today". Text reply says "$1,000 with clear title." I offer $700, he says "Come get it, but I won't take any less." Got there and yeah....... issues. The hood is all kinds of tweaked and separated across the center. Interior is non existent except for the frame and springs of the front seat. Rusty at the lower cowl area behind the fenders and small spot on driver's floor. No glass, guy has cut thin plywood to fit in the rear windows for some reason and plexiglass in the wing windows. Not huge issues but realistically, the body is really solid. Go to open the trunk and both pot metal hinge arms are broken so the lid just sits in place. I ask to see the title. It's from 1959 where that owner had settled the lien on it. The next owner signed it with a notary seal stamped over it dated a few months after the lien release. Dunno, will the DMV allow me to sign as the buyer when the titled owner signed the seller's spot 58 years ago? I go to look at the cowl tag and verify the VIN..... yeah, cowl tag is gone. Sorry dude, not interested. I tell him I'd give him $400 for the value of the parts it has on it, mostly believing he'll say "nope." He says "ok." Dammit. :laughin: Now what do I do with it? :hmm:

I was hoping you'd be able to get a production cage done once you got yourself settled in up there with Damien. My 2dr XJ was the rig used to prototype the 2dr production cage. The first production kits had straight bars across the top of the windshield and across the top edge of the dash. I replaced the top bar with a curved one like you've done in your MJ. Nicely done, keeps the visors usable and the bar out of your forehead. the bar over the dash you've done I'm not a fan of. Having the two bent bars there kinda limits the side strength at the A-pilars and cowl. They'll bow outward/forward when compressed. Keeping the straight bar across the top edge of the dash keeps things a bit more solid....... in my humble opinion. I also like the back cab hoop. It goes up high enough so that if one wanted to, they could cut holes in the roof above the window and run bed bars. As an optional add-on for the kit, I'd like to see some boomerang shaped bars going from the bottom of the A-pilar bar at the foot plate, up to the seat shoulder area of the B-pilar hoop. Then a short bar from the bend of the boomerang down to the foot plate of the B-pilar hoop....... if that makes sense. Another optional add-on of a single cross bar behind the seats for shoulder harness mounting and additional bracing of the B-pilar hoop. Lastly, as an optional add-on, include several triangular flats so that gusseting of the bars at the welds can be done. This style cage makes it VERY difficult to get welds around the entire junction where the tubes meet because you're building it inside the cab. These gussets provide additional protection against tube ripping at the weld, or busted welds allowing the tubes to come completely apart during a roll. As with building any cage inside of any vehicle, it's going to create issues. For the XJ/MJ's, these cages cause issues with access to the headlight switch, they block A/C vents, eliminate ANY possibility of removing the dash (as in heater core replacement), and using a straight bar above the dash makes it more difficult to remove the instrument cluster bezel to install a stereo or gain access to the gauge cluster. The biggest interference is to the glove box door. It won't open but a couple inches due to the A-pilar bar. Most have simply chosen to stop using the glove box, others have cut the box door between the "e's" of the jeep logo and glue the end piece in place. I know, I know........ you probably didn't post this up looking for opinions or advice. I couldn't help myself. I've owned/used 2 of D&C Extreme cages and they really are nice, budget friendly cages that get the job done. They can be easily improved upon by the end user and/or their installer. They're true purpose is to keep the lid from crushing down on your melon in a slow roll over and aren't meant to be race cages. So glad to see that D&C is still doing business! It's not easy for the little guys to keep up the good work.

Picked up another, like the one acerocknroll has. This one had to come from the UK, so even after hitting them up at a lower price (make offer option on ebay)........ I paid a little too much.

I too was skeptical of the non-biodegradable Air Soft BBs as balance weight but got desperate when I was wanting to run my Truggy with 37's and steel beadlocked wheels. My issue was that when airing down the tires for the hard core trails, the lead rim weights were usually left on the trail, or got moved (slid) from their original position. I used 13 oz. in each tire based on a chart I'd found on the interwebz. Worked amazingly. At slow speeds (below 15-20 mph) I'd still get some out of round feel, but on city streets and even the highway, they were the answer. I wouldn't think one would need to resort to using these for anything smaller than a 35" tire, and I've not heard of anyone doing so either.