ThatJeepGuy

100% other project kind of thread. My mistake on thread placement.

Bought this 86 just to salvage the sliding rear window from it. For $400 the price was just right. Not wanting another project truck to sit around and also Not wanting to deal with the tire kickers and project dreamers I made the decision it was time for an MJ bed trailer setup. This was an interesting experience. I've never pulled rear glass before and while I was initially intimidated, really was no big deal. Saved the seal as well Cut twice and measure not at all Tongue is built but very unfinished. This is just enough to have it mobile for the time being. Gonna keep my eyes open for used truck bed box if I don't just suck it up and buy the trailer tongue box I've been eyeing at Har or freight. More to come!

I had one years ago with a topper to boot. It definitely was useful but I came into a position of needing cash so I let it go. Never really regretted selling as it served it's purpose but as a result of having to buy this entire jeep primarily just for the glass - then also to my luck the unibody and bed on this one aren't terrible for being a MI truck - I'm not even going to bother trying to sell it (no title, no drivetrain, hacked floors and hacked front fenderwells from someone's booty work V8 swap). It'll serve me best if I just avoid the re-sell market and make the bed/rear frame more useful to me. Prolly chop the rear cab section like I have others and send the front section to scrap.

Yea sry, not intending to come off harsh, just the reality behind the numbers. I was actually driven to completely defy the ebay price initially becuase I didn't exactly agree with how much someone was asking for their 3 piece glass. Then I went down the hole of sourcing one for a better deal in spite of their price only to accept the reality of it. They aren't cheap because they are desirable! I actually still have the rear cab section of the white rusted out MJ I pictured earlier in this thread. To my benefit it had a sliding rear glass as well BUT i found it knocked over one morning (local hoodlum kids or the wind 🤷‍♂️) and 2/3 sections broke out of it. Funny enough this also drove me to re-aquire another MJ rear cab section I sold to a buddy of mine some 3-4 years ago. This one has a 1 piece glass but for the same $50 I sold it to him I could practice removing the window and ultimately salvage the rubber trim seal. This one still had the factory rear cargo lamp and interior trims in it *Bonus*! By the end of all this I should wind up with some spare parts, potential Sale/trade inventory, that 3 piece sliding window I've been wanting in my truck so badly and potentially an MJ bed trailer as well.

Best I could say is take a look at ebay. At the end of my glass deal if I end up still with a spare I'm going to be keeping it for just that reason. Really I'm not going to be willing to sell it for anything less than what I have into it and at that point you may as well play the ebay "make an offer" deal cuz it would be better than what I'd need to also ship it to you

Spring is here, holy smokes it's been over a year since I've updated this! I think I can safely declare it's time for some change! This single piece window, the fuel cell and potentially the trans cooler gotta go! I'm sure ive said it in here before but i really want all the bed space back and while ive had a TJ tank setup sitting on my shelf for a while now (stuck undecided on how to mount it) i think its finally time to just remove the fuel cell and make it happen! At the same time why not relocate a trans cooler to the front of the jeep? The last bit - factory rear sliding glass! In my other MJ build (truggy) I have sliding rear glass and it's very nice on the warmer days with slow crawling - ive missed that option from day one with this Orange truck. Not doing as much crawling but the option for extra air flow through the cab is desirable. The fun part to acquiring another sliding rear glass becomes simple. Buy expensive salvaged glass from ebay or by luck - buy a whole truck locally and salvaged the glass yourself. Unfortunately I have done both 😑, Not only did I nab that tan longbed MJ ($400) i also to my surprise won an ebay "make an offer" listing for $330. Honestly not my original plan but here we are... Soo here's to springs welcomed warmer weather, a glass job with a spare to cover my a$$, a new fuel delivery setup and trans cooling setup and a future filled with en empty pickup bed.... or 2 empty pickup beds 😉 More to come!

I have a tan column for manual but no tilt

I have a pair of tan belt/detractors. 85/86

From this chunky mess of accesories To this unfortunately bulky box Cat 5 signal wires tucked in then comes relay switch and powered wires and accesories Amazon box and rubber grommets

My 87MJ that's LS swapped and on 1 tons ran me 12k. I'm being honest here, I didn't build the jeep myself, I met the original builder while in the midst of it and that is how I know him to this day. His first MJ turned into a wicked build and we got to talking about MJ tailgates then etc etc etc. After a couple years he sold the jeep off for roughly $20k, several owners of rather neglectful use - it's mine to make right or rather my LS swapped invisionment. I bring this to the table as I am playing in the route of buying a pre-built rig - which surprise all the things you think you would do differently - you will prolly end up changing/making right for you which still adds $$$$ to get it the way you'd rather have it. No regrets really as I really enjoy my truck though I don't get the pride statement that yes I built it. It'd be hard to say which way is best, cheap just yard route - just make it run mentality vs the go all out and presentation level build when it's finished. I suppose as long as your enjoying how and what it's becoming then good on you!

I may do up some deer heart tacos this weekend. I'll snap a few pictures if that's intriguing for any of the hunters around here

Yes it does exactly that. I actually dug one of my spare tcases out of the shed this weekend and finally started testing it out. Nothing special here, factory parts Shouldn't be too surprising but the 3D parts fit nicely The interesting thing is it actually works too. There is some flex in the parts but that's obvious they are just plastic I pulled the case back apart and am working on transferring them into a crude metal version for more trial and error. I'll update more on this after I get those figures out and installed again

That's absolutely my fear... acquiring more parts that no one really wants and I couldn't bring myself to throw away

This picture is below the engine mount and not around your oil filter setup I'm beginning to think your trolling us

That block with a plug in it is where the sender is to be installed

What size lift btw? Factory track bar for a lift application doesn't have a lot of room before your better off with an adjustable setup. Those studs on the 2 lower mounts are very very common, I just revamped my track bar setup for my 87 and the one below the engine mount is still there while the one closer to the steering box quit on me years ago. As far as getting your track bar mounted again there Is no problem with using your steering to push the body to align the track bar- this does however require two people to do it. One to steer the body and the 2nd to align the taclbar and bolt. One other point - inspect your axle side mounting hole to be Egg'd out or Out Of Round. It's common enough when removing an old or factory track bar (especially if you threaded the bolt out of the bracket during removal) for the mounting hole to be affected. That worn out mounting hole will eventually get worse and cause death wobble which can be the vain of many jeepers experience.

I have an opportunity for a near identical set of seats local to me, I'm more interested in the front seat brackets than anything for an 86 XJ I'm revamping. Very nice score regardless also rather encouraging - may have to dig up that messenger thread after all

I googled for a reference photo as I don't have a renix block to put my eyes on. Indicated by the crude red pointer is where you should expect to see the oil pressure sender

Please tell me there's more on this one!?

Mmmhmm track bar and brackets welds Years ago now I did one of these *bleepin jeep* accessory fuse/relay boxes converting a factory unit. It's about time for someone a little cleaner and more compact. The other main things here is I'm retiring the factory plastic battery tray in favor of a Barnes4wd unit and also contemplating revamping the power and ground cables... we shall see how that goes but for now it's just been tidying the engine bay up some re routing some accessory wires, and improving the fitment on this Thor intake More to come

It is remarkable how just a little bit of snow can devastate areas that aren't equipped to handle Any of it. Hopefully things get to a more manageable state sooner rather than later for you guys affected by the sudden cold. I love the snow, especially when it sticks around. The last 2 winters have been rather disappointing here in MI. Seems our "new" winter season actually begins around January vs November as I remember my childhood winter seasons.

Thanks very much guys!

Let's kick this off! find a true center for reference. $40 Lazer level from the jungle site. Formerly only 28.5" Cut the bar and sleeved it and now we have 32.25 Set it down on the bumps to check clearances and everything looks good! No coil springs Here we have the sleeved old track bar and the to-be-welded new track bar New track bar mount in a mockup weld jig Had some extra time so I poked around a slow startup issue I've been having. Haven't been hearing the fuel pump prime at key turn lately, had me a little worried I'd be dealing with replacing the fuel pump but when I was checking fuses and relays I found a bit of corrosion and after some wiggles the fuel pump was alive again. Not surprising also found corrosion on the distributor can and rotor - rock auto tune up here I come. Planning to weld up the track bar and mount this week, hoping next weekend I can tackle this tune up and some terminal cleaning. Plenty more on my mental to do list soo absolutely more to come!

New mount is underway! Unfortunately there doesn't look to be enough room on the axle end to add the boxed mount where I want it soo just focusing on a new frame side mount for now. Started out by removed the old bracket and track bar. Welded a bit more of the unibody seams here. Did this a few years back to some of the area while at the Badlands offorad park as the unibody was literally falling apart. The more it's tied together the better! Did a little copy and modify with tracing the old mount and factory bolt locations to some leftover 1/4" plate I had. Honestly wanted 3/16's like the prior mount but this was on hand soo it'll do. Made the outside plate wide enough to offset the new mount some, this also gave me enough room to add a 5th mounting bolt. Straight eyeball guestimation here and it landed right where I wanted it New bottom plate covers more of the unibody than previous Thanks to Offroad Anonymous and their fair priced custom bracket selection - offset panhard mount outside the frame. Tacked together and tape lines drawn, it's looking pretty close. Add to that its almost 4" longer than the old setup as well. Just about 3" shy of matching my steering length. New vs old mount new toob and heim joints to come!

I can attest to the bone conductive route, I've been on the same bare of Aftershocks Air for going on 4 years now. The bone conductive is a great route if you are in a space where you are planning to wear earplugs. Seems most quality brands actually come with a pair of earplugs as well. Without the plugs they still work but it's less effective; battling other noises and also less effective to hear and feel the bass/tones of music.