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Everything posted by ThatJeepGuy

  1. I liked to think of it as improving the number of vehicles on my property that run. I sold 2 non running jeep comanche's, and then sold my 89 wagoneer. So now instead of having 6 jeeps that only half run - now i have 3 jeeps and 2 of them run - thats a 16% increase! i did however buy a cop car just slightly overtop the roof you can see 2/3 of the focus jeeps. The 87 Comanche truggy and my 73 J2000 ls swap and 1-ton axles.
  2. It didn't seem like he was and i honestly wasn't gonna preach it up to him yet. Gonna keep in touch with though on progress and if he starts getting somewhere and enthused, i'll start leaning into him for joining. It really is an immense undertaking - so much friggin welding! I was literally and figuratively burned out *mua hahaha.
  3. Alright fellas,Here we are at the end of this project for me. I'm sry - surprise i guess??Through some critical decision making and arguably some maturing on my behalf i have decided to cut some of the BS and focus on the things that matter to me - more. As it stands i currently have(had) 6 jeeps and then my silverado at my house. 3 of those jeeps mean absolutely everything to me while the other 3 - not soo much. While I'm not blind to my inability to pass up a cheap jeep or my temptation to take on other projects, I realistically getting no where on those 3 jeeps that mean everything to me. So to fix this i'm selling (sold) those 3 other jeeps.The 6x6 project is no more for me but the new owner is seeming excited to start working on what will be his crewcab MJ. I nabbed a couple pics to close this out. Pete you aren't kidding this project is a Huge undertaking! Far more than what i'd like to dedicate to atm. So its onto the next one!Thanks for all the comments, questions and conversation
  4. Though the last week had been Brutal with the heat and i didn't get much done I did manage to get the passenger side rock slider welded in tonight. Tires aren't the best and neither is my compressor - mainly just used to pump up tires occasionally so i snuck the jack in there while i weld the underside seam. With the last scrap haul from the leftover bits of front half MJ and etc i scored some more budget $ and stopped by the steel yard for some steel plate to cut my frame stiffener's. I figure that's next on my list of to-do's. I'll be honest here - I'm kinda dreading the roof line :O Soo maybe after i'm sick and tired of laying on my creeper to wire wheel/grind and weld in those frame stiffeners I suppose i'll stretch my legs a bit and get the roof over with and maybe pickup this garage some.
  5. Time to tackle this door sill. So with favoring the body line over the rocker alignment meant this had to be moved only about 1/4". This wasn't too difficult as i split it from in the inside of the rocker, placed where it was desired for alignment, marked the line for where it will now rest, cut and welded back in place. Now it was time for some rocker slider action! dual purpose this will also strengthen up the body and tie into the frame. I didn't however call my measurement correctly and shorted myself about 8" of material. My plan was to run this slider all the way out the back of the cab, which will still happen i will just need to add a chunk later on :/ The slider does taper into the body the further it goes towards the rear - thats the nature of how i've been doing my sliders because i like them butted up to the inside of the rocker where it meets the floor and gets seam welded there. The rear door isn't shut all the way because i still have the braces in place so it looks worse than it is. I didn't get it pictured but this thing is sitting on its own weight now, no jack stands, just flat tires hahaha. The joining of the 2 unibody frames, door sill adjustment(driver side), welding the inside of the "new" C-pillars together and driver rock slider getting welded in took all day. SOO MUCH WELDING!
  6. I think technically atm you would be calling it a cheromanchexploder because that 8.8 out back
  7. Here we go,After 4 hrs tonight we have a near close enough fit for some welds finally I'll interrupt your viewing for this disclaimer - I was faced with a dilemma, Either decision would contradict the other... It was either to keep the high body line (just below the door handle) true and have a slightly off rocker-frame rail OR it was keeping the rocker-frame straight and having to move metal to get the body line back to make it look right. I chose to keep the body line and modify the rocker-frame as those will need attention regardless.So you may also be wanting to point out that the rear door is overlapping some - i got this no worries... Should have some more progress pics tomorrow, aiming for having it sitting on its own weight!
  8. The roof rack is something thats been on my mind and I've tempted planning that into the final result of the build BUT in the sense of trying to make this look clean (as I can) and challenging myself vs a quick patch job. I'm going for a presentable roof without one mounted.
  9. Didn't care for the look of that roof so i chopped some more off the top. The roof height difference is no joke! I did save the old chunk of roof and i'm gonna try to make it fit without trimming the inner structure but if i have no luck - its getting cut some more for sure. Floor is a darn mess! For the time being just to get things rolling i cut out the top of the frame rail 6" in either direction. The MJ frame got cut just 1"~ in front of the front crossmember nut/stud. The XJ frame got cut at a seam line just about middle of the B-pillar. Slowly working the 2 hafs together cut by cut its getting closer! Soo to my surprise these 2 halfs are actually coming together fairly simple. I won't elaborate too many specifics as some of these things need to be left a surprise for those who chose to attempt their own crewcab build. Stay tuned!
  10. Getting closer, meticulously removing metal and inching the 2 halves closer together
  11. I have to trim a bit obviously but dang it barely fits in my garage!
  12. Time for some body progress! Mapped out my cuts with plenty of material to spare. I will peck away at the not needed material once i get the lines figured out between the 2 halves. Dropped it like its hot and let the bodies hit the floor!
  13. Today was gonna be my day to chop the shell up and start inching it closer to the MJ rear section but it was a wicked hot day out with the MI humidity so instead i flipped on the AC in the garage and got back into that tcase.The tcase took a little puzzle work but i got it all buttoned up this morning. The input(s) ride on a ball bearing thats pretty easy to install. Tap bearing into case - slide input shaft through bearing - install yoke - finished!The E-tape on the pictured input shaft is to keep the thrust washer tight to the gear because when the shaft falls over and the gear slides over on the shaft, ALL the needle bearings fall out. This only happened once thankfully. More loose needle bearings that sit inside the output. I was worried about how well they would line up when installing the output side but these were cake. For those that don't know these are considered pilot bearings and the very bottom of the shaft thats pictured above is the pilot that rides on those bearings. Just about finished up after snugging this one down and as i reached across my bench to grab a cotter pin the nut let go and exploded. I couldn't find the 3rd piece but these 2 didn't go too far. What a bummer! You can see the old dirty side vs the shiny side... this tells me this nut has been split for a little while now. It had me concerned the others might also pop but once i noticed the color difference i realized what was really going on here. I've read that Deez Nuts are hard to come by but supposedly they are the same as a Dana 35 pinion nut. Lucky me the axle still bolted in under the rear of the truck is a Dana 35 and the nuts still there. I'll be confirming this soon. Installed the shift rail seals and rubbed all my greasy hand prints off the unit. Looking pretty good if you ask me!
  14. The bed plans for this truck (dealing with a short bed) is to as mentioned - build it to a factory long bed length. This way i can still use an MJ long bed topper on it if i ever want to vs dealing with some oddball bed length. My cutting plan is the cut in the middle of the wheel well opening, a couple inches in front of the fender flare and also a couple inches behind the fender flare. So my bed will then be sectioned into a front - a front of wheel well - a back of wheel well - then a rear. Keeping a few inches of tire clearance on either side i may only need to make filler for the middle of the bed above the wheel well(s) I can disect a photo to explain later.
  15. Tonights progress wasn't a whole lot but it did feel good to get some where on this tcase!Soo keeping in mind i've never rebuilt one of these and just relying on my ol noggin as this is similar to the trans I rebuild at work. Start with the idler shaft in the middle of the case. Pound it in there with a brass slug (super handy chunk of brass from a massive Mac diffs idler pin) and then tighten down the nut and washer on the opposite side of this photo. I snuck these 2 outputs in next and sealed and snug'd down the yokes. The shiny bit below the gear mid shaft is our new thrust washer -thank goodness it was the right one! Hiding behind that is a double stack of individually placed needle bearings that you then drop the gear over. Delicate work for sure! This is also the main input/output shaft of the unit, the gear is the reduction gear for low range. Tossed the 4 studs into the holes as the rest of the holes are meant for bolts. Dropped the shift rails/shift forks in only to realize as i was snugging down the fork bolts that i left my wire tie spool at work today :/ I guess we won't be finishing this tonight after all. Also notice the 3 bolt cap for the idler shaft. I have a fairly busy weekend ahead of me so i'm not entirely sure i'll be getting any progress in but if i do - you guys will know
  16. Yea its an epic thread on this forum. Thus the inspiration for my approach. As i said above... i'm no body guy, but i can definitely weld so i am taking the IMO easier approach and not trying to get to fancy or technical with the body work. Just simple the simple lines. As my uncle once told me - Do your best and then body fill the rest ;)
  17. Yea they are pretty different, I've been seeing and further researching different approaches to make it an easy transition and for now - time will tell when it comes down to it - I think I will try and use the xj roof and then seam it to best fit to the very back edge of the cab. Trying not to remove the structure web under the original mj roof.
  18. By all means suggest. I'm torn between adapting the xj rear door/frame and then adding the lower corner portion to make up the difference in a full door vs the idea of going halfsies on xj front and mj rear. I guess ultimately I don't want to deal with a custom window and I haven't looked to in depth on how well a factory rear window would line up in the window track... Something to wrap my head around and decide on i guess. I haven't set myself in stone yet with cutting so there is still time to change plans 🙃
  19. Yes i'm planning on a carrier bearing setup for the rear most axle. Initially i figured i would setup the carrier mount on the middle axle but now knowing i can mount that NP200 flat, i'm siding more with setting up the carrier bearing off the frame
  20. So this evening started off with removing that old drivetrain. Trying my darndest to not destroy anything on the way out. Although its not pictured now, there will be some body work getting done up front. As i got wiring peeled back and everything out of the way i discovered the front passenger corner was hit a little harder than just a fender bender like i had thought... I'm not too worried about the repair, it should be a simple cut out and replace with another donor fenderwell.It was also especially tasking cleaning this thing out as much as i did - still filthy but whats left thats dirty isn't going to be used anyways. What did get removed was rather disgusting - thankfully no pictures here either. I feel its pretty important to keep this thing straight and square so some reinforcement was in order. Just a few pieces of angle iron to tie those door strikers in place. I ran a bit low on time towards the end of the night so instead of getting antsy and making some of the cuts, I called it a night and saved the surgery for another day.I will show off my technical details - this one was REALLY bugging me. The flange/cap in green was originally part of a drum brake assy that is commonly cutoff for the case' custom application. Someone had already taken care of this for me but left an awful lot of useless metal that will likely only collect mud and dirt. So while i had the case and parts at work for some paint and prep i also knocked off all that useless metal and got this thing looking s3xy! Unfortunately didn't get anywhere on this case like i had wanted to tonight but bringing this slimmed down cap home was good enough for me. For Now. I apologize if this seems rather steep paced or construed timeline at the moment. I was convinced to share my build here in CC and kinda spammed the build thread to its current date.More to come - stay tuned
  21. Here we are, back with cherokee shell donor #2. This one is the newer body style which wasn't my original intent for this build. However, it is getting a little harder to come by any usable shape 96/older cherokee bodies around MI. After scrounging Marketplace listings for the better part of last week and into the weekend it had dawned on me how plentiful the newer body xj's still are and figured i may need to be more open to the thought of running the newer style front. So for $200 i get a good unibody with ok floors and a grand mix of good and bad leftovers. I was ecstatic to find out it still had a good trans and tcase as it wasn't discussed before i picked it up. Motor is blown which wasn't a big deal as i have a couple motors sitting around. I'll prolly be removing the drivetrain to make the shell a little easier to maneuver and also give me easy access to the underside of the floors and unibody. You can see that MJ rear waiting patiently in the garage for a new front end. Divorced tcase is also coming along nicely. I've gotten both rear outputs setup now and will be getting the idler shaft/gear shimmed up and then hopefully this weekend i can get to assembling the unit as a whole
  22. So here we are, the only broken part in this tcase. Also happens to cost $60 to replace! Thankfully a good friend of mine happened to be travelling through Billings Montana which is the location of TorqueKing4x4 who sells these parts and many other tcase parts. Check them out! Dude saves me some shipping and making a vacation trip to MI means i get a personal delivery. Hot tanked, blasted, painted and touched up the gears, now we're ready to re-assemble... Well almost, The replacement thrust washer won't be here till this weekend and i also happened to forget my micrometer for measuring shims. So a few more days and then i'll be getting after it. Overall -for now, I'm only replacing that thrust washer and the 6 oil seals (4 yokes and 2 shift shafts) Its about $110 in total. Realistically it could use new bearings but for now i'm just gonna learn the setup and then later after its all together and functioning proper i'll back in and make everything right. So in the meantime i figured i'd play around with some driveline angles. Just messing around here but there will be about 9" of separation between the 2 driveshafts, represented by the 2 tape lines below. Tape line left for now is directly center between the rails while at the bottom of the pic my makeshift plumbob is sitting on the center mark of the rear most axle. Also incorporated the 1.5" wheel spacers into the measurement on the rear most axle (not the middle axle) and where i originally planned for this to be a driver drop rear case it will actually be a passenger drop rear case. Angles don't look too extreme at the moment, i suppose lets just hope it stays that way You may also notice just in front of the passenger tires are some suspension parts. Those are coils and control arms off a newer JK that i scored for Free. Definitely going to be doing a coil sprung rear setup and with those parts being listed on marketplace so often lately and rather cheap/free if your patient, I figured i could benefit from using a "stock replacement" type part for this build.We'll see what this weekend brings us for another progress update
  23. After tidying up some i decided to get a handle on this XJ donor. Got it knowing it was rusty but dang, this thing is toast! Atleast the ford 8.8 it was sitting on turns out to be a 4.10 LSD axle. Which is terrific as thats what i was leaning towards for gearing. The only bust is now i'm on the hunt again for another cherokee shell. I suppose in the meantime i can start playing with this 6x6 setup.Here is the key to my plans for making both rear axles drive. This is an NP200, comonly found in old M715s or M37 military trucks. Picked it up for a cool $60 a little ways back. How could i resist? Threw some tires on the 8.8 and snuck it outback We ended the night with a quick teardown and inspection of the unit and to my surprise its looking pretty good! Dirty oil but all the splines and clutch teeth on the gears and hubs were in great shape. Some rust pits on some of the gears but they won't bother me much. Only issue is a single thrust washer had split. So the search begins for its replacement. I'll be taking the case into work and cleaning/blasting it so expect some pretty paint shortly
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