Sir Sam

Ah, disregard my above. You can have the sentry key option deleted for $125, or have your ECU reflashed for a manual transmission to keep your sentry key and keep everything CEL free and happy. There are a couple of things on the CCD bus(1997-2001 TJ use CCD, 02+ PCI), that may or may not make the XJ AW4 TCM work better, but its possible for those things to be broacast on a CCD bus by using a ZJ bcm and tying it to the AW4 TCM via CCD bus, wrap it up with a couple of CCD pins on the OBDII port and you could see both devices via a DRBIII for diagnostics. If you want we can talk about the electronics side of this more, I simply don't see why this is more than a $100-300 issue.

First off, I cannot see why the sentry key would make any difference in swapping in an AW4, nothing about the SKIM system would flip $#!& with an AW4. Second, the sentry key can be deleted for about $125 worth of ECU flashing, done it before, will do again. But I would very much like to hear why the sentry key makes an AW4 swap harder, the AW4 wiring is pretty simple, and doesn't connect up via the PCI bus.

on the plus side you can always swap in an AW4 transmission, or a 545 if you got ambitious.

LJ is not an official designation like "XJ" or "MJ" calling it an LJ is like calling a Wagoneer a Waggy. Officially its a TJ unlimited or JK unlimited.

Dammit not this $#!& again.

Screw that, swap in some nice fuel injection.

So....give me a document to post?

Give me something MJ specific.

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/

For reference, the Factory Jeep Wheels guide: http://colorado4wheel.com/images/jeepwheels/wheelsindex.html http://colorado4wheel.com/images/jeepwheels/xjwheels.html

I do, hopefully one of these days I will see one with the VM motori diesel.....a man can dream right?

Ya, there is a ton of unnecessary and expensive stuff sold all under the guide of "audio quality" Audiophiles will pay big bucks for things that will not make a difference in audio quality. There are always a couple of engineers who can have a chuckle at the expense of someone buying a product. The USB standard is 5V, so everything that runs off of usb runs on 5 volts, this one provides 5V at a max of 2.1 amps, which is plenty to charge just about every USB device out there, I haven't tried it with my dads ipad yet, but the ipad charger puts out 2.1amps, so this thing has the potential to charge it, but may not(there is a resistance value in the power supply that devices can read to determine if the supply is compatible, most will read OK, like iphones and such, but sometimes devices with high current draw, like the ipad, will only accept their own charger) Its not transformers, its all solid state, Diodes and voltage regulators, no copper windings. If you haven't seen one before, apples iphone charger does the exact same thing as this outlet, solid state 120v AC to 5v DC, in a tiny little cube: It's mostly just a convience thing, I would like to have one on either side of the bed so I can just leave an iPhone cable plugged in and set my phone on the charger at night. I also found this guy that I have wanted something like it for awhile: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Dual-Charger-Socket/dp/B0082CXEI8/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1356972156&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=12v+usb+oulet It comes with a flange but it can also be a surface mount. Ya you can always just plug in a 12v usb adapter to charge stuff but this removes the step of needing that adapter all the time, again just a convenience thing. That double USB outlet is not so desired in my Jeep, but rather in my van where I am always trying to power multiple devices with a single 12V outlet up front.

There are different versions of this but this one just has two USB power outlets, others don't lose the outlet and instead place them off to the side. This one has a non standard faceplate, which while probably never being an issue, its nice to think that if you need a new one you can always get one. http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/PWR2USB/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_campaign=googlebase&gclid=CKeEz5fjwrQCFck7MgodmGEAuQ Another non standard: Airports need these things around:

Sort of want diesel Mj......

Crate training is a way to get them to settle down at night, and also house train them. They don't want to poop/pee where they sleep, so they hold it, then you let them outside first thing in the morning to go on the lawn, and they learn quick.

The CMP sells reimported M1 Garands, comes in a case, shipped to your door, different grades available. Would be neat to pickup one I wouldn't mind modifying a bit, refinish the wood nice like that(or new repo stock) add a scope etc.

I haven't gotten to go shoot it yet, it was my grandpas, he bought it in the 50's postwar and had it since, after he died this summer I inherited that, the pellet gun, and the little single shot .22. My uncle got his old shotgun, and my Aunt got his Japanese rifle. The Japanese rifle he took back as a war prize from the pacific. He was a Marine so I think that explains his affinity for the Carbine. It got a good cleaning but I need to oil it a bit and then send some rounds through it.

I would like to do something like this next:

Figured it was about time for this, so I got a couple of guns: Couple of cheapo impact guns: But I needed something better so I got this guy: But of course everyone needs a heat gun to remove all sorts of junk off of other junk: This is my main paint gun, devilbiss HVLP: And a devilbiss touchup gun: A Sheridan Model EB 20 cal pellet gun(circa 1985): Sheridan Knocabout .22 single shot(circa 1953-1959): You have to be careful because if you forget to engage the safety before loading the next round the firing pin is down and during loading you could potentially fire a round.:bangtard: LRB arms ar-15 lower(circa 2011), build in progress: Inland M1 Carbine: Later style adjustable sight: Serial number dates it between may 1942(starting with #9) and september of 1943(with #999,999). Barrel date 10-43: Trimble stock: Armory rebuild "P" mark: Armory rebuild flip style safety: Rearmored band with bayonet lug: Highwood stock:

If it really is just a belt why is it such a big deal to drive up, replace the belt, and drive home?

ah, copy that.

why is this needed? When I went the other way, 01 engine into a 96, I just bolted up the 96 intake to the 0331 head.

cool

Replace 12V with 24V with a VGT turbo a 68RFE and now we are talking.

10mm, 1/4" drive deep socket. Most commonly used socket, I love that thing, perfect amount of extension, deep, etc