johnnyc

Man, I can feel your pain. In January 2008, I slipped on the ice and fell straight down on my butt. When I tried to brace myself, my left arm jammed right into the ground, injuring my rotator cuff. The only thing I could do was to take it easy. I couldn't lift anything or ride my mountain bike for a year. It finally started to feel much better in January 2009. Hope you feel better very soon.

For a while there, I thought you all were crazy. :) That is not a Dana 30. They both are Dana 44s. The easy way to tell is by the assymmetrical covers.

When I did my 97+ door swap, I took the door cylinders out and had the locksmith in the Pick Your Part parking lot match them to my existing MJ key. $15 for two.

That IS strange looking. The top of it looks like a Dana 44. But the flat bottom edge of the housing looks like a Chrysler 8.25.

I think we all need to take a trip down to St. Croix.

Loaded it up with three Dana 44s that my buddy and I pulled in the junkyard today. One MJ D44 and two XJ D44s.

I just put the Redline struts on and had the same problem. You might already know this, but an easy fix is to shorten the hood cables on each side equally to limit the hood up travel so it stops about 1/2" from the wiper arm. These cables run from the firewall to the hood hinges. :cheers: Hmmm...I don't have those hood cables on mine. :???:

I had the same thought when I put my 245/75/16 spare up there. So once I got it cranked up tight, I secured it with a couple of cargo straps around the tire and frame.

I'm just about ready to pull the trigger and swap all my good parts from the XJ over to the MJ, and make it my trail rig. When I do that, I'll save the dash from the XJ. Then when you move back to CA, you can help me install it. ;) Another tip - The raised cowl comes in contact with the passenger side wiper arm when the hood is fully open. You'll have to remember to put the hood prop in the lower position. I just HAD to put my Redline Tuning hood struts on. So I have to open the hood very slowly until it rests gently on the wiper arm. You know SlimsXJ, don't you? He also has the same hood. He had some stickers specially made that say "HOOD PROP HERE" and he put one next to the lower hood prop hole. That's just so that if somebody else opens his hood, they won't scratch it on the wiper arm. I know he's got some extra ones. I'll try to grab one from him this weekend and I'll mail it to you.

Are you copying me again Bo? :D I got my Reflexxion hood from 4WD a couple of months ago. The shipping was free to the nearest 4WP store. The store manager told me that the website was SUPPOSED to charge the extra $150 surcharge, but that there was a glitch in the system. He said they were working to fix it. But I guess they haven't yet. I got mine on sale for $340 plus tax. Word of advice. When you pick it up, take it ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE BOX to check for damage. I just kinda looked it over real quick and failed to notice that one of the corners was a little munched. So I had to wait another week for a replacement.

Yeah, that's what I was trying to say. :D The retaining clip will only go on one way. Before you tighten the bolt all the way, make sure the bottom part of the clip is in the correct notch. Done. -edit- In that last pic you posted, it looks like it's set correctly.

I don't know if I'm understanding the question entirely... But there are no marks on the t-case. As long as the fork on the retaining clip is in the proper notch, then it is clocked correctly.

To answer your question about the headlight harness - yes, you can disconnect it easily.

Bo did it in Project Onyx. Check the projects forum.

Very nice. That's the look I'm going for. I plan to go SOA and use my 3.5" RE coil springs and ACOS to go with my 33" Bighorns. I'm going to use that picture as inspiration.

I ran 33x12.50x15 tires on 15x8 wheels with 4 inches of backspacing and it worked well.

Catatonic posted this 1992 Comanche sales brochure a while back. On page 8 of the brochure, the Dana 44 is listed as an option with the Big Ton package. The Dana 44 was also available if you custom ordered a Comanche from the factory, as I'm pretty sure was the case with mine.

Well, now you know the truth. ;) BTW Steve, nice looking MJ! :thumbsup:

A Dana 44 was offered as an option on the Comanche all the way to 1992, and not just on the Metric Tonne package. I have a Dana 44 on my 92 shortbed and it came that way from the factory. It's true that the Dana 44 was only available from 87-89 on Cherokees.

I've done this swap twice. First on my old 96 XJ. And then on my 92 MJ. No regrets either time. As long as you can get the doors in good shape and for a good price, then DO it.

Thanks. I was thinking about heading over there to see what there is. Too bad half-price weekend was LAST week.

I had one of the first FedEx Sprinters a few years ago. It had a speed limiter which was really annoying. And the doorway from the cab to the cab was too short. I bumped my head a lot. After a week, I asked for my old POS Freightliner back. :D

Easy enough if you're electrically savvy, but just time-consuming. There's an article in the January 2009 issue of JP Magazine that documents the procedure on my MJ. And here is a wiring chart from that article that may help you out.

It's hard to bang it out when it's still on the vehicle due to the angle and the drag link flexing. I took the drag link completely out of the Jeep, laid it on the ground supported by a couple pieces of wood, and one whack with a BFH popped it right out.

This is correct except for the "LJ" part...there is no such thing as an LJ body code in the Jeep line. ;) :thumbsup: My buddy, who is a Jeep tech, shakes his head whenever someone says "LJ". Sometimes I'll say it just to get a rise out of him. :D