johnnyc

What a deal! I just sold all five of my polished Rubicon wheels and MTRs with lots of tread on them for $400.

Thanks. Did the SOA swap in the back. My buddy gave me some new MORE perches and I had another buddy weld them on. In the front, I have 3.5" RE coils with ACOS set at about 1.5 inches. It's sitting a little low in the front, so I'll have to crank the ACOS up especially when I install the bumper and winch. Bilstein 5150s all around. Tires are 305/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16x8 Allied beadlocks with 3.75" of BS. I just got my new driveshaft from J.E. Reel. So that and my SYE-equipped 231 are going on tomorrow. Rear shock mounts are also getting redone tomorrow and the custom rockrails are being test fitted. All welding and fab work are being done by the second buddy mentioned above at OTR Fabwerks.

All depends on the age and condition of the coils. The V8 ZJ coils I had only gave me half an inch. :(

I traded the hood to a buddy with an XJ in exchange for some parts and labor. I stilll like the flat hood. 8) My other buddy actually did the cut and fold. It's much like doing it on an XJ. He made a single cut on the rounded corner. Then he used a hammer and dolly to fold it nicely. He didn't fold it all the way to the panel. He left a bit of an angle on it to make it a little more rigid.

I've always heard that it's best not to get a "universal" ballast resistor from a part store. If you want to retain it, I'd get a factory piece.

Coil spacers, V8 ZJ coils, and XJ main leafs added to the MJ packs gave me 2 inches. Enough to fit 245/75/16 tires.

When I took off my stock bumper and hitch a couple of weeks ago, it was also welded to the frame. :fs1: We were able to get a small cutoff wheel in there to cut the welds out.

While we were lifting the MJ yesterday, my buddy dropped a 15 mm socket into the frame rail. :shake: A few years ago, I dropped a 15 mm deep socket in my XJ's frame rail. There was no way it was coming back out. So I nudged it over to the nearest hole and squeezed some silicone into the hole to keep the socket from rolling around. About five years ago, I was doing some work on my 96 XJ before a trip to Moab. I was using a pair of vise grips for something and they fell down onto the lower edge of the front skid plate. I totally forgot about them until I was going up The Wall on Steel Bender. The vise grips fell out onto the ground. The people around thought that I had broken something. Then someone went and picked up the vise grips. The vise grips sat loose on the front skid for the entire 500+ mile drive to Moab.

Lifted it.

No self-service junkyard ever has a constant supply of Comanches. You just have to keep going to the yards to see what they have. There's Scotty's in Fontana and AMC Salvage in Wilmington. But their prices are usually pretty high.

Got it lifted this weekend. There were a few minor issues which will be addressed this week. New rock rails and longer driveshaft are coming next.

I have an extra factory one. $10 for shipping and it's yours.

Wow, two months since my last update. Been busy lately, but I've started up again. The paint job has been postponed for a while. I just parted out my 98 XJ. I have my built axles, suspension, t-case, and wheels/tires ready to be swapped onto the MJ this coming weekend. I also have the engine, which will be swapped in a little later. Then I'll have to order up a new rear driveshaft. And my buddy is going to make some custom rock rails and rear bumper. Yesterday, we cut and folded the bed in preparation for the rear bumper. The bed is now even with the bottom of the tailgate. The new bumper will extend around to the sides. I also ditched the cowl induction hood and put on the white hood from my XJ. The cowl hood just didn't thrill me. I think the lines look a lot cleaner with the flat factory hood.

I had this EXACT same problem. I was replacing that 15 amp fuse all the time. Sometimes it would blow right away. Sometimes it would last a couple of weeks. I replaced the headlight switch and thought that had fixed it. But sure enough, the fuse blew in a few days. What it turned out to be was some ghetto-fabbed trailer wiring that the PO had installed. There was a jumble of wires behind the rear bumper, including a couple of exposed wires. When one of these wires touched the bumper, the fuse would blow. I removed as much of the wiring as I could. And I haven't blown a fuse in two months.

That's really a vague question. What are you trying to accomplish? I run ACOS, but I wouldn't extend them to the max. They're really only for fine tuning.

Yup, I don't ever plan on selling it. When I bought it last May, it was my third vehicle. I also had my XJ and a Protege. As of today, the MJ is my one and only vehicle. I'm building the MJ up with my XJ's parts and it'll be my daily driver/trail rig.

Wow, mine must be really rare. :D 1992 rust free no water leaks I'm modifying mine and then I'm gonna wheel it. Some people tell me not to because it has a straight rust-free body. They tell me to save it. But save it for what?? I don't think it will ever be worth anything. Maybe I'm wrong. I just plan on enjoying it as much as possible.

It's already pre-wired. No need to do anything.

I saw a lady on TV who was learning how to speak Spanish...so that her Chihuahua would understand her. I have a friend with a Jack Russell. Very cool dog. Another friend has a cattle dog. Also very cool. I live in an apartment which doesn't allow pets. So I really enjoy playing with my friends' dogs.

I'd just go get an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight. If you don't like HF, get a Craftsman. I only recommend the cheap route because while it would be nice to have one in your toolbox, it won't get a lot of use.

Be careful when you install the gasket. The torque value is 55-85 inch/lbs., depending on the source. Not foot/lbs., but inch/lbs. That's about 4-7 foot/lbs. Not very much.

I think it's worth the difference. Cork is definitely old-school. ;)

Evidently, hinterantrieb is a German automotive term. But it's not listed in any online German dictionary. :dunno: -edit - As far as I can tell, hinterantrieb means rear-wheel drive.

SE is the base model.

Just put one on mine yesterday. :D