mvusse

Had to play McGuyver to get the new and improved fan controller working properly, and then tightened the winch bolts that had somehow worked loose.

3.81 for 87

Any year Explorer might have 4.10. It is a fairly common ratio, but not the only ones used, so pull the cover and check the gears. 95 and newer should have disc brakes. Supposedly a flange from a Crown Vic will be for a 1310 series u joint. Be aware the 8.8 is an inch or so narrower than out axles and could cause interference between the tires and inside wall of the wheel well if you run stock wheels without wheel spacers.

If nothing else, the passenger door vapor barrier will at least have the build date on it. Can't remember if the driver side does as well.

Davey is on crack. Have dealt with him in the past, and he might be a good source for hard to find and thus expensive parts for TJs, he claims to not like dealing with Comanches, and is overpriced on Cherokee parts. So much so that for example a new aftermarket fender from Keystone costs about 70% of what Davey charges for a used one. As much as Wikipedia claims our trucks to be collectors items, with very few exceptions they are not.

Using Mozilla Firefox on Linux I have no such limitations. The window is 130 characters across by 16 lines. After I exceed 16 lines a scroll bar appears on the right hand edge.

Yes and no. All the guts will change over. 88 may use a few rivets where 95 may use bolts or screws. There may be one or two braces riveted in the door you will want to remove to make access easier, then just use a rivet gun to replace them when you're done. The lock is another problem. There is no quick easy way to make a Chrysler key cylinder fit in a Renix door correctly, or vice versa. The difference is minute, but if you set the doors side by side with the key cylinders removed you will see what the problem is.

*** this post has been edited because the flyer is now correct ***

Turning the key on without starting the engine will only turn the pump on for a second or so, then it'll shut off. When I did it I unplugged the harness by the tank and hotwired the pump to keep running. I guess you could do it at the fuel pump relay as well.

A friend of mine started with a YJ, lengthened the frame, shortened the cab and build a bed using a Jeep trailer as an example. At a quick glance it looks a lot the one above.

Welcome! On a side note, some people from NEO 4x4 are planning to go to Dover Dirt Trails (http://doverdirttrails.com/) September 8, since that's just a few minutes from my house I'm planning to be there also. And John, SOR is not gonna happen for me labour day weekend. October I'll be near Cincinnati, but hoping to be able to pull off November.

Check with auto parts stores like Napa. Most will have a lathe to turn rotors and drums, some have one large enough to also be able to do flywheels. When I got my F100 the clutch wasn't grabbing real well. When replacing it I noticed the flywheel was blue :eek: Cost me $15 to have it resurfaced.

Where is it? All I see listed is the ring gear... which makes no sense for a manual. Ring gear is a part inside a differential. Your MJ has one if it's 2wd, two if it's 4wd regardless of transmission.

As sinkrun stated, leave the bed where it is, leave the tank where it is and remove the drive shaft. Even if you did raise the bed, the tank would go up with it as it attaches to the bed, not to the frame. With the tank 3/4 full I would either hotwire the pump (unless it is completely dead) and disconnect the fuel line at the filter to pump fuel out of the tank and into a bucket or jerry can, or put the right side wheels up on ramps.

Pretty much any non-siped MT tire.

Sarah's sticker arrived in the mail yesterday. She showed me, then put it on her Cherokee. I didn't pay a whole lot of attention and didn't notice Karl (Haulin) sent me a Comanche one instead of the Cherokee one I had ordered, but it is already on the car now, so I couldn't send it back. Even so, I send Karl a pm and he's sending me the correct one Monday. Excellent customer service, 2 thumbs up! Again, thanks! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Am I the only one to notice that prototype has a leaf sprung front axle?

Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates. From wikipedia:

I have usually had good luck swapping gears from one axle to another, but only if you swap the carrier as well and use all the same shims. To get the shims out from behind the inner pinion bearing race, the race has to be tapped out. This WILL ruin the baffle. A baffle for a D30 only costs 75 cents (at least that's what my local drive train shop charges), but you may have a hard time finding a place that stocks them, carries them, or even knows what they are. If you can find a shop the specializes in drive trains they will be your best bet. Get some gear marking paint. Check the gear pattern before you take anything apart. Check again after everything is back together again. They should match. If not, you're in for hours of (educated) trial and error to get the shims correct. Since it will all be apart it would be a good time to replace the bearings, so a master install kit will be helpful as well. It is cheaper to buy the kit than to buy all bearings and races separately.

John, no matter what they say, they LIE. SN has NO ZDDP in it, SM has very little. Older engined need it. Therefore SM and SN cannot fully replace SL. There is a reason all motorcycle engine oils (mostly 10W40, though) are SG or SJ. Because running SM or SN in a motorcycle engine running 12,000 rpm the engine will self destruct. Despite what they say, the new oil specification is not a good substitute for the older oils our engines were designed for.

I used Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic. It is afaik the only readily available oil that is still rated SL. I will never run SM or SN oil in 25 year old vehicles. Not too expensive. Wally World has the 5+ quart jugs for $27 or so, Autozone will usually match that price. After the first handful of oil changes the oil comes out carrying noticeably less sludge than when I first got my majorly neglected truck.

Two most likely possibilities: 1 - The drop brackets aren't placed evenly on the frame. Being RC, this would not surprise me. Only way to tell is to measure from the same place on each frame rail to the bracket. Or the holes in them are not evenly drilled. 2 - The axle brackets weren't welded on in the same location of their holes are not in the correct location. Also, the bolts are 14mm, the holes should be 14 mm. 9/16 is .29mm too large allowing the bolt to move, possibly causing death wobble in the future. Even though I can't see it being off by 5/16, are the drop brackets keyed off the stock brackets, or off the alignment shoes inside the stock brackets? If they are keyed off the bracket itself, do they have a provision for alignment shims? edit: Just noticed the axle has been in an accident. Quite possible the inner C is bent.

It was a quick fix to solve the problem of people complaining about the fuel pump being loud. It is bypassed on startup, it is bypassed under full throttle conditions, and 1987 models never had one without any problems. If it were my truck I would simply bypass it, but then my truck never had one to begin with.

The problem is not carrying the payload. The problem is trying to stop an extra 3000 pounds with already marginal brakes.