mvusse

dead dead dead compression dead dead.

Doh! Since that's on the transmission, it is for your shift light. The backup light switch has a different connector.

One center cap is missing, but I would say get them.

The vent line fastens on the firewall somewhere. Don't know much about the 1984-1986 4wd system, so can't help with the other one.

For one thing, it seems to be missing badly. Could just be the leak, or it could be distributor cap. Since you said you're going to be replacing the cap, rotor and coil anyway, I would say, do that, fix the intake leak, and then see if you still have issues. No point trying to figure out a problem when it may very well be solved by fixing what you know is bad and doing what you seem to be going to do anyway.

$100 for the set? I'd say that's not too bad. If it's $100 per wheel, keep looking.

:agree:

34% lower gears for a 10% larger tires, yes, I would call that excessive. 3.55 is THE most common ratio out there in Cherokees and Comanches, and should work quite well with an AX15 and 31" tires. Still a little lower than stock. but some people on here would consider that a good thing.

Across similar years I believe they will, but around 94 they made some changes including the cut of the gears, so swapping an 01 input shaft into an 88 or 89 transfer case is not going to work. I agree with Alexia to find a newer 242 to swap into it and leave the engine and transmission alone.

Hell Creek is out of the new spring business.

License here is $12 per year. Not paying it causes a headache worth more than that so I pay it.

A friend of mine swapped a Renix 4.0 into a YJ that originally had a carbureted 2.5. He was running without an O2 sensor, which worked ok on the highway (although about 12 mpg), but in stop and go traffic or out on the trails it would flood out and stall, And then be unable to start for 30 minutes or so. Hooked up an O2 sensor in the front exhaust pipe (got a new pipe that had a bung for one) and no more problem, no more stalling and close to 20 mpg. Tell me again how the open loop program is not that rich.

My first Comanche I walked over, paid $400 and drove it home a few blocks without plates.

I still say running continuously rich (open loop) and flooding due to bad O2 sensor.

Find yourself a better mechanic, preferably one who likes to fix vehicles.

When I bought my truck (no AC, no auxiliary fan or pigtail for one) it had the larger alternator and I would like to think it was original because the bolts all had then 21 years of corrosion. Every single one broke off before it let loose.

Wow, I guess I got lucky then, as I did it once and it seems to be holding. Tiny bit of oil still, but that may be what had pooled onside the bellhousing, or possibly the back of the valve cover. But not the 2 quarts it would pump out on a single day of hard wheeling (or a week of street driving).

Resistors are not directional, so it doesn't matter which wire goes on which terminal. And getting hot is how they work. They add resistance to the circuit causing a voltage drop, generating heat in the process. The circuit as a whole consumes less power as a whole, though. Maximum power dissipated as heat for a single comonent is when it's impedance matches the rest of the circuit. So assuming the rest of the circuit amount to 1.2 ohms as well, and 14.4V at the battery, it would be dissipating 43.2 watts., or roughly the same total heat as a 40 watt light bulb through a much smaller surface area. The entire thought behind the resistor was to quiet down the fuel pump so customers wouldn't complain about it being too loud. It is bypassed on start up and during wide open throttle. The 1987 model year did not have it at all. Easiest solution is to go back to the 1987 engineering and just bypass it.

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Your problem, as with all of us, is that you own a Jeep: Jed, Eric, Edward, PUSH! On a serious note, I'm guessing fuel pump. Don't forget to change the sock and the filter at the same time.

3.31 and 4.56 would not be found stock in an 8.25. 3.73 is also a common ratio for ZJs, but AFAIK they didn't get the 8.25. 90% or more 8.25 axles from under Cherokees will have 3.55 gears. 4 cylinder ones would most likely have 4.10 gears, there may be an oddball 3.07 8.25 here and there if you come across a stick shift 4.0. 29 spline shafts started late in the 96 model year, (same time they started using the 97 electrical harness, even though it was still the older body style?) Gear sets for 4.56 and 4.88 are also available, but not found under a stock vehicle. Available gear ratios go as high as 2.76, although that ratio uses a carrier specific for just that ratio.

The only loved one that gives me grief over Jeeps is my daughter. Her Cherokee has ~4" lift with 32" tires and she is always arguing for more lift and larger tires. I want to keep it a relatively low center of gravity because it's her daily driver, and for safety as she's 16 years old with limited experience on the road (off road is a different story, one of the best drivers I have ever known. Must be instinct as she sure didn't get that from me.) When I'm working on her Cherokee she will drive my off road truck, which is a dented and rusted piece of poo that doesn't have any dent free sheet metal left, including roof, hood and tailgate. She will not be seen dead driving my stock MJ. According to her the only thing worse than that would be driving the camper to school.

Might be for the shift light. Some transmissions have the hookup for one, some don't.

Couldn't help myself. Had to steal this.

"S Clizzy" :rotf: :rotfl2: :laughin: