mvusse

Dexron III is just regular ATF. $2-something at Autozone. If you paid $7, either you were ripped off, or it was fully synthetic.

In the front you will need longer or adjustable lower control arms, or an lca drop bracket. Ditto track bar. Without the control arms, your wheel will be too far back in the fender. Without the track bar, your axle will be shifted over to the driver's side instead of centered under the vehicle. And you might also need longer upper control arms to get the axle turned correctly instead of rocked backwards. For the rear axle you will need to think about shock mounts. Look around the project forum to get ideas off what other people have done. You might also want to get longer spring perches to minimize axle wrap, although I've heard people say it really isn't too bad. Also if you want to keep the weight (height) sensing rear brake valve, you need to find a way to lengthen the rod that goes to the differential. And lastly, that kind of lift will look funny with stock tires, so you might want to go a bit larger with them, which in turn may cause you to want to re-gear the differentials to get a bit of torque back. Not too mention the fact that tires are starting to get expensive. They are made from oil, which has increased from around $20 per barrel to $140 per barrel over the past couple of years. But I'm sure you already know that, as it has affected gas prices as well. Make sure you post before and after pics. Lots of pics in between too. May want to start a project thread for your truck... Have fun!

Welcome. Beer's in the fridge, and beware of the couch; it smells a little funny. :cheers:

I don't know if a 2" spacer would be a good thing. I run 1.5" spacers on the back of the Suburban, and it causes the wheels to be visibly turned out because of the spacers giving a little under the weight of the truck. For this reason I temporarily removed them when I was towing a bobcat and when I had 68 4x10 sheets of drywall in the back at 88 pounds each (yes, they did stick out 2' in the back, I only have an 8' load floor. Then I put them back in because I like the look, and really like the added stability. Then again, a Comanche doesn't weigh nearly as much as a Suburban (it's dry weight is 6100 pounds), especially at the rear wheels, so it may not be an issue.

It seems time is my enemy. I think I have a front skid plate coming. That still leaves the transfer case and gas tank unprotected, but it's better than nothing. I also have a broken leaf in both my rear springs, and even though I was planning to wait till after the trip, 2 people have now told me I should really fix that before. Could be a 4 hour job, but if the parts don't want to cooperate it could turn into a full weekend project easily. When I do that the plan is to put the rear on jack stands and drop the entire axle assembly with the springs still attached to work on it out in the open. Oh, and I'm getting my new tires Friday. My current tires range from barely legal 1/16" tread to about 1/8" on the best one. The spare is completely bald. I'm getting 4 P235/75R15 Wintermark snow tires for $89 each mounted and balanced. and am having an old one off the F100 (50% tread left) mounted on the spare. I have played with these in sand, mud and wet leaves before, and they worked quite well. About as good as M/T tires. Didn't do so great in 30" tall grass on dried out clay and 30 degree incline, though. Never tried them on rocks. I guess Chico isn't going anymore. About half his route would have been the same as mine, but I think somebody from the Columbus area was going. I'll be taking I77 south to Cambridge, them I70 west through Columbus and past. Always fun to gang up with someone on the highway, especially if both vehicles have CB or FRS. Oh, and for the long trip I got a new CD player installed ($30 off a buddy whose girlfriend rolled her Grand Prix). Unlike the old one that came with the truck and had an overheating problem causing it to shut down after 2 minutes (turned out to be a missing heat sink) this one plays mp3 CDs. I just burned one with 141 songs on it. I put new 4x6s in the back a while ago, but still need a replacement 5" I think for the ds door.PS door still works fine, though.

On my way home from work, I was sitting at a stop sign, and the car behind me pulls alongside to tell me I'm leaking gas BAD. Got home, all the while watching the trail of gas behind me. In 3/10 mile I lost 1/4 of a tank of gas :mad: This is the last part of my trail: Turned out I had a pin hole in the rubber hose just after the filter, and the fuel was spraying out like a shower head. My old failing pump never put out enough pressure for weak spots in the fuel line to become a problem. The new pump puts out 75-80 psi. Quick fix, though, since the leak was close to the end. Cut off the bad part and push it back on. 15 minutes total. I then found a package on my front porch (USPS, as UPS leaves it on the back porch). It's my Firestik 3' Firefly antenna. I never could get my 4' Radioshack tuned below an swr of 3, so I decided to try another one. After messing with it for 45 minutes I got the swr down to just below 3. I'm thinking the problem is that the fender doesn't provide a very good ground plane, even though the 102" whip gives me 1.4. Might try the whip at Badlands,but take the 3' with me in case they don't like the long one. I'll use fishing line to turn the tip down towards the rear bumper. Later this year I'm going to try the suggested antenna cable before completely giving up on the fender mount. If that doesn't get me a better swr, I'll put the 3' Firefly on the center of the roof. Either that or 2 identical 3' or 4' antennas on both fenders. 60" separation is not ideal, but should be enough to work. Since dual antennas radiate off each other, the ground plane becomes a non-issue.

Well, at least people agree it would NOT be 3.07 :roll:

I already PM'd my (not quite) local parts supplier (Wildman), but had decided to wait until after the trip on the 18th. Sounds like you're saying don't wait? I drove my F100 for 2 years with a broken leaf, and never had another one go. And I routinely had 2000-3000 pound loads in the back.

$24? DANG! Are you sure you're in Canada, and not Wisconsin?

I just took the cap off and cleaned all the junk out of the back, and the rears are now at 19.5", so "only" 1.5 to 2" of sag. Do have 1 broken leaf on each side. I'm thinking that may have something to do with it. The second leaf from the bottom is broken a few inches behind the axle on both sides. Don't think I have time to rectify that before July 18, though.

Actually, the 2x4s in my house are 2x4. Rough sawn oak, balloon framing built in 1910. But yeah, current ones are cut 2x4, after they have been dried and planed they are 1.5x3.5.

194, same as front side marker bulbs.

I used to power shift my F100 whenever I was in a hurry to make a pass, and once showing a kid in a Civic that once we hit 20 mph i had a better hp/weight ratio than his little ricer. The transmission (after 200,000 miles) was also loose enough that the clutch was optional once you had started moving, as long as you got the rpms right. What finally killed the truck (not the transmission) was a head on with a Grand Am when I attempted a pass and couldn't accelerate fast enough due to wheel spin. Only accident involving another car ever that was my fault.

My 4wd light used to be on when I bought my truck, It went off after a few days, but every time I used 4wd it stayed on for a few days, sometimes as much as a week. Turned out to be a vacuum leak near the canister in the bumper.

That rude b@stard will be missed. And he sure used to be funny! :cry:

From what it sounds like, it has a lot less rust than would be usual for where it's from, and the pictures seem to agree with that. The main issue would be the engine. The GM V6 was arguably the worst engine to have ever been put in a Jeep, and does not have a lot of friends. It was also the cheapest engine option available I believe. My guess (and I may be off base a bit, so I hope others will reply as well) would be to ask $1800 and take any offer over $1500.

Considering 1 is perfect and only obtainable in a lab or with a dummy load, I imagine 0 would be pretty darned good. If it were possible :D

Holy crud, even at low retail, which I assume mine falls into, mine is worth $1935. How come the desirable (read: ever lasting) 4.0 causes a 10% lower value?

Most people going on a trail ride do not have a HAM operator's license and therefore are not allowed to use the 2 meter band. CB does not need a license.

When the timing mark (dot) on the camshaft sprocket is pointing straight down, the one on the crankshaft sprocket should be straight up. If you're off even 1 tooth, it should be quite obvious, even though 1 tooth off would probably still run, albeit like crud.

Well, I guess that leaves the injectors. Easiest way to diagnose would be a scope, but they are not cheap and hard to find nowadays, but I'm guessing the computer is not letting the injectors open for some reason. The cause could be a sensor failure. But again, I'm generalizing as I'm relatively new to Jeeps and know nothing of the 2.5.

My still favorite BMW (even though the M5 is nice) has always been the mid engine M1, of which I have actually seen one as a kid on the autobahn. We were traveling around 85mp/h towing a pop up trailer behind our Jetta Turbodiesel when it passed us. My second favorite has always been the M635CSi, which uses the same engine in a more typical front engine coupe body.

My Saturday consisted of a 5 hour drive to hike 0.35 miles as the crow flies (each way). That took over an hour, but the elevation change was 1000 feet, and included about 1100 stair like steps. Talk about a 1 hour stair master workout... On the way back I wasn't sure I'd make it all the way down before one of my knees would collapse on a larger than normal step. Some were 16+ inches high. At least the car ride back provided a nice rest. Took quite a few photos, I hope they turned out. http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?guid=7a565e2a-3f76-418e-9852-d679bed107f9 Today I think I'll take SuperWade2's example and vegetate with a few drinks.

If you have a class III receiver, this could be an option also: Probably a lot cheaper than a custom designed cargo rack.

Assuming 4th has a 1:1 ratio and 5th has a .70 ratio (don't know what they are in Jeeps), the 3.55 gears will put 5th about halfway in between 4th and 5th with your current 3.07 setup.