mvusse

When I was 18 I took a car airborne across an intersection, THROUGH a telephone pole, and then minus the rear axle across the road into the the left side ditch. 6 people in the car including myself, nobody wore their seat belt, no injuries other than a bloody nose. (The car was a different story). I figure I will only ever hit the jackpot once in my life, and that was it. I have been wearing it religiously ever since.

I got home from an offroad trip, tossed my girlfriend into the camper, unhooked the car hauler and drove south for 9 hours to a little podunk town (pop of 1700) right in the middle of the path of totality. Got there at 2 am, went to bed, woke up at 8 and found myself blocked in. About 20,000 other people had the same idea. Some of those had some seriously high dollar equipment with them, though. Not a cloud in the sky, experienced totality for a bit over two and a half minutes, and it was awesome. April 8, 2024 will be much closer to home, with the edge of totality being 7 miles from my house.

I have one you can have for free, but I'm in Strasburg, OH, 5 hours from you. I can throw in a lwb bedliner also...

Strasburg, Ohio. 44680. I'll throw in a lwb bed liner with it also.

I had an XJ, 4.0 stick shift. On 235/75R15 tires (just a tad larger than stock) it would cruise 75mph in 5th with ease and throttle to spare. 3.55 would help, but should not be needed. Your engine must not be running the way it should.

I did a test with XJ shackles a while back. Picked up the back of the truck and then set it back down. The shackles inverted -> no bueno, so using xj shackles you'd have to run limiting straps. Also, changing shackle length messes with your pinion angle which is not a good thing. Better solution would be to bastard pack the springs, swapping out one or more MJ leafs with XJ ones, which have less arc to them.

This one (fits a long bed) is for sale if anybody wants it. First person willing to pick it up can have it for free. If I deliver it it will be $1 per loaded mile.

as long as it has 23 splines you should be good. I don't recall when the aw4 went from 21 to 23 splines... the input shaft length required is different for the ax15 and aw4, but I bolted mine on anyway and haven't had any issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cool, now if only my MJ wasn't covered in snow. Didn't the automatic go from 21 to 23 spline at the same time they went from the BA10 to the AX15?

I got my daughter's 96 XJ as a 2wd. I used an 4wd 0AW4 transmission out of another 96 XJ (for you I would stick to 91-95, partway through 1996 the model year they changed things, including the plug on the CPS. I also don't know if the TCU or transmission are any different to work with the OBD II ECU, so better safe than sorry. I used a 1993 242 out of a ZJ, with a hack-n-tap SYE. The transfer case I got was missing the tab that bolts onto the transfer case for the shifter, so I got one from a 231. Bad move. The tab on a 231 is longer and on a 242 will not allow full range of movement. This caused the case to only be partly in 4wd-low, which in turn cost me the center differential over 12 months of use. You will need the 242 specific shifter tab, and shift gate. Everything else will work with 231 parts.

Howdy, been a long time! Haven't heard from or seen Wildman for a while now. Been over a year since I checked up on him, he was swamped with work at the time,

With a SOA Chrysler 8.25" axle I believe I had to have 19" added to a stock front shaft on a lwb Comanche. On a swb, you'd need to add 12", give or take.

I use Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. It is rated API SL and still has at least some zddp in it.

After my D35 started showing problems (with stock sized tires) I upgraded to a 99 8.25". It lived with me through 33s, then 35s, then locked on 35s. Trying to climb a steep ledge I ended up doing a rear wheel stand, while bouncing due to spring wrap. On the third or fourth bounce the driveshaft gave up and twisted in half like a pop can. The axle survived that stunt just fine with stock shafts. I ran it like that for three years before I went to one tons. As for disk brakes, the 8.25" came with disk brakes under the KJ Liberty, so brakes off one of them should be bolt on. You can also get the disk brakes that were optional on 93-98 ZJ Grand Cherokees and drill the center hole out to 3". The backing plates will bolt on to the 8.25" flange without any other modification, that is what I ran after I got tires of my drum brakes being eaten up by sand from my then favorite off road park. It took me two months to go from brand new shoes to metal. The junk yard brake pads (granted, they were ceramic) I got with my disk brakes lasted more than 2 years.

Take the transfer case drop out. It is not needed for the rear of an MJ, and it makes the front driveshaft angles steeper.

I have one. If you're willing to drive to Ohio to pick it up, I'll let you have it for free. I'll even throw in a long bed bed liner with it.

Since you are going to rebuild the whole thing, you might as well upgrade the 3 gear planetary with a 6 gear one and see if the 1.5" chain upgrade for the 231 (out of a 241 or 231HD) will also work on a 242.

Decking, whether it be the block or the head will increase the compression ratio, not decrease it. To lower the compression ratio, you have 5 reasonable choices: 1 - shorter rods, 2 - shorter pistons, 3 - more dish in the pistons, 4 - thicker head gasket, or 5 - increase the combustion chamber size. These all affect static compression. Dynamic compression (the important number) is affected by all of these as well as cam timing. The stroke length of the crankshaft also affects compression ratio, but custom grinding a crank to destroke a stroker is prohibitively expensive and counterproductive.

It's not quite a bolt in. The Durango box is too large for the stock spacer. I solved that with two 7/16" washers glued to each bolt hole.

Yea, its a 91 8.25 Axle :/ The later axles have slightly larger splines. I was going to get the larger axles, but then I'd have the change the locker to match. I'm thinking the Alloy shafts will be strong enough. If they break, I'll go with a Dana 44 or swap the locker and shafts to the lager 8.25. Actually, I was thought the disk and pads would be all tore up, but they both looked fine. The slightly larger 29 spline shafts on the late 96 and newer 8.25s are a lot stronger. I used to run one, locked, with aggressive 35" tires. At one time I had the truck bouncing on the rear axle with the front wheels completely off the ground. Axle held, but on the 3rd or 4th bounce I lost all power to the back due to the driveshaft having been twisted in half.

I can attest to this. I work at Autozone, and for a long time we carried Timken bearings as the better quality compared to the "Duralast" store brand ones. About a year ago we started selling through the Timken bearings and have replaced them with Moog unit bearings and National bearings and races. Both are Federal Mogul brands. If I try to force the system to order a Timken unit bearing, we will be sent a Moog one instead. A few years before that already I started noticing a downturn in quality when a Timken unit bearing split causing me to lose a front wheel while cruising down the freeway. That bearings was just over one year old. After that I started looking at the Timken boxes and noticed every single one of them stated "Made in China".

No help. Some of the links in it are dead, btw.

I have the inspection cover off. Checking the flex plate will be easy enough. I'm more worried about the connection between the transmission and torque converter, as well as the torque converter seal.

So, after being parked for 3 weeks I finally towed one of my trucks out to the shop, put it on jack stands and crawled under it to see what is going on. Turns out (ALL!!!) bolts holding the transmission to the engine are missing. I know they are 3/8, standard thread, but does anybody know how long they need to be? How many are there? 4 or 5? Been too long since I have had them separated to remember. This is an AW4 behind a 4.0.

The tab on the transfer case that the shift linkage connects to is different also. The one on the 242 is shorter than one for a 231.

I run a Durango steering box. I had to modify it to get the same amount of steering out of it, which I did at the same with when I drilled and tapped it for hydraulic assist. It has a larger diameter piston for more steering force, and will accept our intermediate shaft and pitman arm. It is, however, larger around to accommodate the larger piston, so it will not quite fit in the stock aluminum bracket. I ended up adding two washers between the bracket and the box at each bolt.