mvusse

Forklift is available. RTI ramp is not. It's an easy and quick way to test difference before and after mods.

Car batteries do not like being discharged. If your alternator went bad (which it seems like it did), the battery may have been killed by being drained down too far. Either way, the best way to burn up a new alternator is to have it charge a completely (or nearly) drained battery. So get a battery charger if you don't have one and completely charge the battery. And batteries can't be tested unless fully charged anyway.

Yesterday I spliced in new sockets for the parking/turn signal lights up front. Both work like a charm now. Today I moved my tailpipe over a bit so it doesn't rattle against the hitch receiver any more, and found the source of the burned rubber smell I smell once in a while: Yup, idler pulley doesn't have a bearing any more. It has some miscellaneous parts of a bearing and ceased. Also went to stick some more bolts through the tow hook brackets only to realize it's not gonna work. Is the 94 up frame different from the 93 and older?

The MT package allowed a payload of a little over 2200 pounds. So the springs are rated for a bit more than 2200 pounds PLUS the empty rear axle weight rating.

I though it stood for Common Rail Direct injection.

The spacing between the springs (and perches) is definitely NOT the same between Cherokees and Comanches.

If you hack enough, you could make do with a 3" lift. And at 3" you shouldn't need boomerang shackles or a SYE. But as I have not lifted my XJ yet, I'm not positive.

Motormite/Dorman part number 84716, or look up anything that fits a 1978 Ford LTD. Splice black to black, blue to brown and brown to either blue or gray with a black line depending on right or left hand side. I had to do this on the passenger side of my 87 Comanche last year (and then replaced the entire harness with the one that came with my new header panel just a month later), and just today replaced both sides on my 94 Cherokee. I paid $3.99 last year, now they are $8.49 at Advance and show $25.99 on the web side!

The 2.8 makes barely more HP, not enough of a difference to notice, hardly any more torque (again, not enough to be able to tell without a dyno) and uses twice as much gas doing it. The only reason for people buying a new Jeep with that engine was that it was the cheapest engine option. I also believe it was discontinued in Jeep in 1987. But since a 2.8 fits, a 3.4 out of a Camaro should also fit, and mounts to the same bellhousing. Same block, more power, fuel injected.

Note to self: Parking lamp/turn signal sockets interchange with 1978 Ford LTD, Motormite/Dorman part number 84716. Splice black to black, brown to blue, blue to brown or gray/black depending on left or right hand side.

Again, you get what you pay for.

The picture shows a Cherokee. And it says 86 through 93 Comanches, even though Comanches were only produced through 92. I wonder how they are lifting the rear, as the only way to get 4" is to use aftermarket leaf springs; soa gives about 6" or more, no way an add-a-leaf can give 4" in a spring under vehicle, and the few companies that make MJ leaf springs all charge upwards of $300 JUST for the leaf springs. Then there'd be front coil springs, lower control arms, track bar, and all that for <$400? How about brake lines? I don't see how they can do it. And if that price is right, you get what you pay for and I would not trust the quality. You can try http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12_57&products_id=208 Other respected companies like RE might make comparable kits.

The fact that it acts as a resistor. Amperage going through multiplied by voltage drop across equals wattage of heat generated. But as I don't have one, I can't measure either.

What exactly do you mean? Does it turn over a few times and then all of a sudden the starter turns full speed without turning the engine over? If that's the case the flywheel has a (few) missing or ground down teeth, which will eat the teeth on the starter motor gear, which would explain going through a starter twice a year. Only permanent fix for that is to get a new starter AND a new flywheel.

I run 4.5", but since I'm still running the same tires I was before (235/75R15) I didn't do anything about my bump stops. The tires stuff quite nicely.

A 1986 could not possibly have had a Vortec originally as the Vortec engines (SFI) didn't come out until 1996. I believe even TBI didn't come out till at least 1989. It may not have been a 305, but it would definitely have been carburated.

How on earth did you manage that? Jumping?

Remove cover and rotate drive shaft (with at least one wheel on off the ground if rear axle) until you can see the numbers stamped into the ring gear. Two of the numbers (either first two or last two, can't remember) are number of teeth on ring gear and pinion gear. Divide first by second gives you ratio. Ie 41 10 is 4.10, 39 11 is 3.55., 43 14 is 3.07.

I can almost guarantee the joint is fine. The slop is most likely from an elongated hole in the bracket. Best bet would be to get a junk yard trackbar and bracket without slop at the joint together. Don't need to look for a Comanche as Cherokees are the same.

Doing dishes in between the commercials. Oh and being on CC of course. Not much of a football fan. Where I come from, football is played with a ball (you know? ROUND) that you kick with your feet. What's considered football here would be better off called handball. But that's already a sport as well. Or rugby for sissies, considering all the padding and helmets.

I might be pointing out the obvious, but you're not limited to Comanches for a donor. Cherokees have the same engine/transmission/transfer case. Plus the optional 242 (selec-trac) which was never offered in the Comanche.

Currently 40 degrees here. No snow on XJ, after driving a bit over 100 miles this morning no more snow on MJ, but can't wash either as my hoses are still frozen.

A squirt bottle works also. You'll need a 30mm socket or wrench to take the plug out, and it can be tight from having loctite on it. On 3 vehicles I've done this on, 2 had loctite.

Alignment specs are 0 toe in. And I know from experience 2" toe in WILL set off DW.

Lifting the front will cause toe-in. Excessive toe-in will set off death wobble. And toe-in may not be obvious because of the nose of a Comanche being narrower in the front. I would take a tape measure and adjust the sleeve on the drag link to get as close to 0 toe-in as you can measure. Then it should be safe to drive it to an alignment shop.