mvusse

That's like PC on GLXJ. He had an XJ, wheeled it and sold it cause he needed the money. Then missed it, so he bought another one. Traded it for a 4x4 FS Chevy cause he needed money and buddy needed aback seat for kids. Now he's thinking of wheeling a Chevy with a bunch of MJs and XJs 2/28 at Haspin. Unless he puts a home made Jeep logo over the bow tie on the grille, he'll probably be the butt of a lot of jokes. Then again, it's got posi front and rear.

I would stay away from a low pinion front axle. High pinion would be stronger and would keep your drive shaft out of rocks better, not to mention less articulation on the U-joints.

As far as I know if the same filaments are used for signal lights and brake lights, Federal Government mandates that the brake lights override the hazard signals. I still stand by that statement. If turn signals and brake lights are separate, brake lights can be on (not blinking) while the hazards are still blinking so my earlier statement does not apply. Brake lights HAVE to be on while braking. One is allowed to blink to indicate a turn, but not both.

Most 31" tires measure just a hair over 30", 235/75 15 measures right around 29", so no, they are not equal. A 235/75 15 is pretty close to 30x9.50. 31s aren't a lot bigger, but it makes a difference. Most 31s are also an inch wider at 10.50. A 31x10.50 is a good fit for a 3" lift. If you take it off road you may have to get rims with a little less backspacing to keep the tires out of the inside wall of the rear fender well under flex, or (people will probably jump on me for saying this) get a 1.25" or 1.5" wheel spacer for the rear. Good quality hub centric spacers aren't cheap, though. There might be some rubbing on the lower control arms under full lock steering. Grand Cherokee control arms are curved and might eliminate or at least minimize it. So will less backspacing, but then there might be fender contact. What metric tire size is equal to what flotation size is not as simple as looking at the first number. The first number on metric tires is the width in millimeters. To get the diameter you also need the aspect ratio (second number, in percent) and the rim size (third number, in inches.) Here's a pretty close comparison chart, these are not exact: 235/75R15 -> 30x9.50 245/75R16 -> 31x9.50 265/70R16 -> 31x10.50 265/75R16 -> 32x10.50 285/75R16 -> 33x11.50 305/75R16 -> 34x12.50 And a 3" lift will make quite a difference, but with the long wheelbase, I would suggest rocker guards. Trust me. I messed mine up before my lift, then messed them up more after lifting 4.5".

A 2wd transmission will not bolt up to a transfer case, so no, you can't keep your current transmission. Every time someone has tried to make a list of what all is needed for the swap, 2 or three people chime in with little things that were forgotten, and it probably still would not be complete. The main stuff is easy, transmission, transfer case, drive shafts, axles. But then there's the rest of it: control lever, linkage, console mount etc. Best way to do it is to have the entire donor sitting beside your truck. If there's anything you forgot about you just take it off and put it on. That way you can also see how things fir together. It's a lot better than coming home with a bed full of parts trying to figure out how the puzzle fits together.

Yes, cars that have independent brake and turn signal bulbs do keep working. But Comanches don't.

Neither my Comanche (Renix) or Cherokee (Chrysler) have a "natural" resting position. Both of those when you turn the ignition off it stays wherever it read with the key on.

That Cherokee seems to have an AX4, and thus should have 3.55 gears. You have an AX5 and should have 4.10 gears. 3.55 is going to suck if you go larger tires, and even with stock tires might make 5th gear useless. You want at least 4.10, but probably 4.56 (from a 4 cylinder/auto?). Still, for $650 it's a good deal for the transmission, transfer case, front drive shaft and all the bracketry and stuff. I believe you can take 5th gear out of your AX5 and install it into the AX4 to make it into a 5, but pm JeepcoMJ to be sure. He's had enough of those apart to be able to build one with his eyes shut. Sell fenders, doors, grill etc. to get the money to get a 4.10 front axle from a JY and scrap what you can't sell. You will have to take your current 2wd rear drive shaft to a shop to have it shortened.

Yeah I have some of those story tellers also, courtesy of Badlands. But unlike yours, mine are plainly visible. Some from 50 feet away, like "tube exit", behind the passenger rear wheel.

That's what had me confused. He's wanting a 8.25 or D44, but YJs had neither of those.

Since the brake lights and hazards use the same filament, the hazards are supposed to quit working when on the brake. This is a DOT requirement as they consider brake lights to be more important that hazards. But turn signals should keep working when braking.

Yes, for optimal low end torque you need some back pressure from the exhaust; a free flowing exhaust can help top end HP, but will rob low end torque. Since our engines are designed for low end torque instead of top end HP, a free flowing exhaust will not gain you much. You will lose torque and might even lose fuel economy as well.

It's an H3 (well, made to look like an H3), which is based on the Canyon/Colorado compact truck platform. If you call that massive, what would you call an 8 foot wide Hummer Alpha? Or the Suburban based H2?

:redX: Link is to email the seller, not the ad itself.

Back might be fine, but only until you flex the rear suspension. When flexing the rear the top inside of the stuffed tire will hit the inside fender wall. This will even happen with 30x9.50 on stock 15x7 wheels (5.75" backspacing?). It did to me anyway, but only on an RTI ramp.

With the slip joint in the drive shaft and 3" lift, even if there are different lengths, I don't think it makes enough of a difference to matter.

Nope, that sounds like the pump is not pumping enough fuel. Could be the pump, but in my experience is more likely a dirty fuel filter, or a dirty sock on the pump. Is the "new" pump the same size as the old pump? You did spend like $10 on a new sock, didn't you? Replace it every time you have the pump out of the tank.

Anyone heard anything from Chicofuentes0224? Haven't seen him around in a long time.

His last post was 12/29, but he's been on since. Last time on was 1/18. I'm guessing he's too busy with work to have time to post, but still lurks every now and then.

Not difficult, but expensive. Just to immigrate here (after marrying a citizen) rang up over $2000 on my credit card. And that did not include gas for 20+ trips to Cleveland and back (closest INS office, now Dep. of Homeland Security) 90 minutes away on the freeway. Naturalization runs a bit more than that. Don't be fooled by the $400 filing fee. When all is said and done it'd be right about $5000.

Check the fuel pressure. Might be a clogged filter, clogged pump sock or bad worn out pump.

I usually keep my nose out of political discussions, but felt I had to chime in here. Why is it called a green card? They're not green, they are white. And before that - at least in 1993 - they were pink. And yes, I have one, I'm registered for military duty, and I pay taxes like everybody else. But I am not allowed to vote :(

#3.

Buy the beater and keep the road salt off the good one.

Here in Ohio you can have a vehicle on private property without plates or insurance, although some local ordinances forbid "abandoned" vehicles on private property. Meaning you need to have a privacy fence or a tarp over it or something so the vehicle is not obviously visible.