mvusse

Are you running square U-bolts parallel to the axle with that setup? If you can tell me how you did that, I think I just found how I want to do mine when I go SOA. The longer the shock, the more travel they have, and a little less ground clearance that close to the tire will (or at least should) not matter.

Gotta wait for the snow and ice to melt to look underneath my XJ to see how the axle end of the shocks are mounted, but if they fasten directly to the axle, you might be able to use the stock XJ shock mounts.

Unless someone modified the firewall and swapped in a straight 6 4.0, you either have a 4 cylinder 2.5 (Throttle body injected) or a General Motors V6 2.8, which would be carburated. The V6 is not considered a very desirable engine, as it makes no more power than the 2.5, while using a bunch more gas. A pretty popular swap for those is a 3.4 out of a Camaro.

One of those is the vacuum supply line that provides the vacuum source to the heater controls. It hooks up to the main vacuum line coming from the reservoir in the bumper. The other one goes to the valve that controls the coolant flow.

I have an 87 MJ with the prop rod on the radiator support, and a 94 XJ with the prop on the passenger fender. Weight of the hoods feels about equal.

Yeah, bearings *really* do not like coolant.

Whaddayamean next owner? You're not thinking of selling your wheeling rig, are you?

But if you ever go to WV, can you keep going 75 uphill?

There's a vacuum controlled valve on the hose to the heater core under the hood. If the vacuum line came off, the valve defaults to open. But even if coolant is circulating through the heater core, unless the heater control is set to warm/hot, the air should not travel through it to het warmed up. With the heater controls set to cold I have noticed no difference in cabin temperature between the valve being open (disconnected) and the valve being closed.

Don't know what I like more. The full write-up, or the short version. Both are classic! :rotf:

I have known two Chrysler minivans, both of which went over 200k. But they both also went through a transmission every 60 or 70k.

$1.73

Even though the flywheel should not be resurfaced, $50 to have it done is quite steep. I had the flywheel on my Ford turned by NAPA (which is notoriously not cheap) for $9.

$1.74

Fixed :oops:

I'm new to this whole AX15 thing, but from what the rest of the fluids looked like, I need to drain/refill it. Where do I find the drain plug? Where do I find the fill hole? And what fluid does it take? I think I remember reading something about 10W40. If so, what is preferred, regular, high mileage or synthetic?

My buddy's 98 Wrangler had those same wheels. They're hub centric and a b!tch to get off. I think we pried them off with a 4x4 braced against a 4x6 propped against the frame, IIRC. Slapped on liberal amounts of never-seize to try to make the next time a little easier.

Also planned to take rear wheels off to check out the brakes as I have hardly any brakes on the rear wheels and the parking brake doesn't hold the car at all. Might just need adjusted, or might be more serious. But... I snapped off my 1/2 to 3/8 reducer on the first lug nut. Guess I need to invest in a 1/2" drive 3/4" deep socket.

Changed oil, t-case fluid, axle oil front and rear, greased fittings, figured out front parking lamp problem, started checking out no backup lights problem. Still need to change oil in AX15. And all that on an XJ... Picture as required by Pete :D

Time to start a new project thread. But since it's not an MJ, I guess it goes in the pub. I acquired this 94 Cherokee last Tuesday: 4.0, AX15/231 8.25/D30 3.07 gears (verified today) and ancient Alpine CD player with 4 new speakers. Today I pulled it into the heated shop at work and went over it top to bottom. Changed oil (old oil was black, and had Fram pos filter) with synth 10W30 and Pur-One filter Changed t-case fluid. Old was black, supposed to be red. Changed front and rear axle oil, old was black and more like sludge than oil. At least no chocolate milk like what came out of the D30 on the MJ. Gave every fitting a few shots of grease also. I then dove into the lights. No backup lights, don't know why yet, but I'm thinking switch on transmission. Turn signal dash indicators would light up when lights were on, and parking lights didn't work. Turn signals do, though. Turns out both sockets have good signal on all 3 wires, but sockets themselves have a faulty ground. Still need to buy new sockets and splice them in. Also noticed tow hook brackets are bolted on with bumper bracket bolts, but have no bolts on the back frame tie-in. Need to go to hardware store to buy some hardware. There are wire splices all over the place. Some was for amp for subs, some for dixie horn (horn still there but not hooked up any more). Need to pull all that crap out and double check radio power wiring. Also need a rear wiper, as the arm has been broken off. Even so, I don't know if it works or not. And found a large hole in the floor between driver's seat and door, with 2 license plates jammed in between the floor and seat bracket to try to patch is. May need to address that with either sheet metal or prefabbed floor pans this summer. I also need to flush the cooling system, but will hold on that until we are done with freezing temperatures. Might want to make sure I have money for a radiator before I do, as it is so badly rotted It's a miracle that it doesn't leak (yet). It's also getting a 2" budget lift using parts I have laying around once the weather warms up. 1.75" spacers up front, 2" blocks in back. More distant plans include rocker guards, custom rear bumper, 4.5" lift, possibly 6.5" and 33x12.50s.

Yup, all's good.

Nothing to my MJ today. Does an XJ count?

Next time you do something nice for her she will know something's up. That stuff only works once.

That's how an open differential behaves. If someone would hold the wheel still while you turn the drive shaft, the other one would spin. To have both wheels turning takes a limited slip, locker or spool.

For metric tires, take P235/75R15 for instance: P means passenger tire, LT would be light truck. P is 4 ply equivalent, LT comes in load range C, D and E being 6, 8 or 10 ply respectively. 235 is the width of the tire in mm. 25.4mm equals 1 inch. 75 is the aspect ratio of the height of the tire as a percentage of the width. 75% in this case. R means radial, a B here means Bias belted. 15 is the rim diameter in inches. So the width is 235/25.4=9.25" The height is 9.24X0.75=6.94" and the diameter of the tire is 6.94+15+6.94=28.88" 28.88x9.25 is about equal to 29x9.50 But a 30x9.50 never measures 30 (always a bit smaller), so pretty much a 30x9.50