mvusse

I try to follow this. I also seem to remember a post somewhere specifying the projects forum is for MJs only, but can't find it. I did notice there are a few XJ projects in there, though. edit: found it.

I hit them with a hammer and they aint budging. Once the weather warms up OVER A WEEKEND I will take the bumper of and take a closer look to see if I can get them to line up. I also need to look at the brackets on my Comanche to see what is different (although they are from Custom 4x4). geez, we hit 67 degrees today and it was sunny most of the afternoon. Then 5 minutes before I go home it starts raining and we're under a severe thunderstorm warning. This weekend is supposed to be below freezing again.

Lifting our trucks causes toe-in> Whoever designed that steering set up should be shot. But anyway, take your truck to an alignment shop to have the toe in set back to 0 (factory specs) and I bet your DW will be gone.

Yes, the tensioner bolt is supposed to fit flush. But if you back off the bolt without loosening the other four bolts to allow the pump to move (three in your case) the bolt will just back out. Don't know if the bolt is metric or not. Pump on my Comanche seems to have a mixture of metric and US, but don't know if they are all original. Don't know about the Cherokee.

Have someone else move the steering back and forth while you watch everything up front from underneath. Out of 3 Jeeps I have dealt with personally, all three had an elongated (worn out) hole in the track bar bracket allowing the axle to shift sideways. New track bar does not solve it when the issue is with the bracket. But if the play is in the box, then I agree with replacing it.

Breaker bar with longer handle. or slide a piece of pipe over the handle to make it longer. I have yet to find a bolt I couldn't get loose (or break off) with a 4 foot pipe attached to my 18" breaker bar. Although I bent the pipe on a few.

What's wrong with your current steering box that you can't use it? Disconnect the pitman arms from the drag links, or from the steering boxes.

Last time I tried to remove the rear wheels to inspect the brakes I snapped my 1/2 to 3/8 reducer again. So after buying a new tool (3/4 deep 1/2" drive socket) I tried again today. Success! Passenger side adjuster cable had too long of a spring on it. McGuyvered it and it works now. Driver side adjuster has ceased. Not even with with a pair of linesmans plier and a pipe wrench could I break loose either the threaded end or the other end. But I forgot to measure the diameter of the drum to see which one I need to buy :mad: Gonna have to take the wheel off again, but not now (dark out), not tomorrow (driving MJ to work and supposed to thunderstorm with 1" plus of rain). Also took some pics of the tow hook brackets. If they turned out I will post them in the next post.

You can flex much more with the front sway bar disconnected.

The two tank sized for the lwb Comanche are in fact two different tanks. Same height, same width, but the 23.5 gallon one is longer and uses 3 straps, the 16 gallon one is shorter and is held up by only 2 straps.

I got a Chryco 8,25 under mine stock. But it is the weaker one (94).

Around my parts, government vehicles, including police, will automatically get a salvage title when sold to the public; same with taxi cabs. Then you have to get it inspected to change it to salvage-repaired in order to be able to plate it, but it will never be a clear title again. And local (city) police department cars see a lot of idling and low speed driving and stop and go. Per mile that is much harder on a vehicle than highway miles, so a vehicle may have 100,000 miles on it, but engine wear will be comparative to an average car with 300,000 miles.

If it's 4wd, directly under your feet is the front drive shaft. Upper and lower control arms are there as well.

My 87 manual concurs with the 88 manual.

Yes, all the steering and suspension parts are the same.

A good set of rechargeable batteries is a must for digital cameras. Alkalines do not like to provide high currents. Digital cameras draw very high current loads when saving a picture. Alkalines can need hours to recover from that. Old fashioned batteries (usually labelled Heavy Duty) work better, rechargeables work best. Either NiCad, NiMH, or Li ion.

I could post a few pictures of mine. But unlike the ones above, mine *looks* 21 years old. Rusty, dented, mismatched colors on the nose (grey, other shade grey, teal, hunter green). And I like the JK pickup better anyway. Kinda like a CJ8.

He said V6, so it'd be an 86. I think in 86, the D44 was not an option. Either D35, or AMC20. Or a D44 swapped in at a later time.

Yes, as long as you're in 2wd (either with the transfer case in 2wd, or without a transfer case at all), gear ratio doesn't matter.

I don't want to experience 3.55s until I get 33s on it. Rubber is too expensive to leave behind on the pavement...

I have been experiencing 3.55s with my 4.0/AW4 MJ. Even in power mode it's sluggish compared to the 4.0/AX15 XJ with 3.07s. Same size tires on both. Not sluggish per se, but sluggish compared to the XJ.

Metric Tonne (or Big Ton) package would most likely sit higher in the back., but a picture of the springs might tell us. The D44 was also included with the tow package, and could even be ordered a la carte. Or it could have been swapped in later by a previous owner.

If I remember correctly, somebody took the truck down an ATV trail until it got stuck.